Solo Adventure Through Iceland's Snæfellsnes Peninsula

A Day of Fire, Stone, and Hidden Waterfalls

Today was a day of stark contrasts and ancient tales woven into the very fabric of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. From the fiery depths of a volcanic crater to the moss-covered expanse of a lava field steeped in saga lore, and finally, to the serene beauty of a hidden waterfall, it was a journey that engaged all my senses. I felt like I was walking through the pages of an Icelandic saga, the land itself whispering stories of old.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Hotel Langaholt & Restaurant. Fuelled up, I set off towards the Eldborg Crater Trailhead. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of damp earth and the distant sea. The drive itself was stunning, the landscape unfolding in a panorama of rolling hills and rugged coastline. It reminded me of the drives Jihad and I used to take back in Lebanon, exploring the Bekaa Valley.

The hike to Eldborg Crater was invigorating. The trail, about 6 kilometers round trip, wound its way through a lava field, a testament to the island's volcanic heart. The terrain was a mix of smooth paths and rocky stretches, requiring careful footing. I was grateful for my hiking boots, a definite essential on this trip. It was a bit of a climb, with an elevation gain of 60 meters to the crater rim. About halfway up, I felt a familiar ache in my lower back – a souvenir from carrying Lina around Toronto's High Park last summer. I paused, took a deep breath, and pressed on, determined to reach the summit. I was also glad I had remembered to pack a water bottle. I had forgotten sunscreen, but thankfully the sun was hiding behind the clouds.

Reaching the top was well worth the effort. The view was breathtaking. The crater itself was a massive, oval-shaped depression, a testament to the raw power of nature. The walls were steep, a dark, almost black rock, contrasting with the green moss that clung to the surrounding lava field. In the distance, I could see the fjords, the landscape stretching out towards the Reykjanes Peninsula, a truly panoramic vista. I took some time to walk around the rim, taking photos and simply soaking in the view. I could imagine Lina loving this, running around and exploring. I made a mental note to bring her here someday.


Explore the breathtaking Eldborg Crater Trailhead in West Iceland, a hiker's paradise showcasing stunning volcanic landscapes and unique geological wonders.

The land here is more than just scenery; it's a living story etched in stone and water.

After descending from Eldborg, my next destination was Berserkjahraun, the Berserker's Lava Field. This ancient landscape, formed about 4,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions, is steeped in legend. The name itself comes from the Eyrbyggja Saga, a tale of two berserkers who were tasked with clearing a path through the lava field.

Driving through Berserkjahraun felt like entering another world. The lava field is a maze of jagged rocks, covered in a thick layer of moss. The colors were incredible – black lava, vibrant green moss, and patches of red and orange rock. It was a landscape of stark beauty, a testament to the power of nature and the passage of time. I stopped at several points along the road, getting out to explore the lava formations up close. The air was still, and the silence was broken only by the occasional call of a bird. I tried to imagine the berserkers, those mythical warriors, toiling away at clearing this path, their strength and determination fueled by the promise of a maiden's hand. The saga says that after they completed the path, the farmer killed them instead of allowing the marriage. What a tragic end to a story of hard work and love.

According to the saga, four landmarks can still be found in Berserkjahraun: Berserkjagata (the path itself), Berserkjadys (where the berserkers are buried), Landamerkjagarður (a boundary fence), and Fjárrétt (a sheep den). Modern archeological digs have uncovered the remains of two large men, adding some authenticity to this legendary tale.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes of Berserkjahraun, a captivating mountain peak in Iceland offering stunning views and unforgettable hiking experiences.

Leaving Berserkjahraun, I felt a sense of awe and respect for this ancient landscape. It was a place where history and nature intertwined, creating a truly unique and unforgettable experience. I picked up a few small pieces of obsidian, hoping to bring a little piece of this magical place home with me. I'll have to remember not to pack them in my carry-on bag.

My final stop for the day was Selvallafoss, a hidden waterfall tucked away on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Known as the Sheep's Waterfall, it's a bit off the beaten path, which meant it was relatively quiet and peaceful. From Road 56, it's a short walk towards Selvallavatn lake, and soon the sound of rushing water fills the air.

Selvallafoss is not one of Iceland's largest or most dramatic waterfalls, but it has a charm all its own. It's a series of three cascades, surrounded by lush green moss. The tallest of the cascades is about 11 meters high. The water flows along the Fossá stream, creating a serene and picturesque scene. I spent some time simply sitting by the waterfall, listening to the sound of the water and enjoying the tranquility of the surroundings. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and adventure.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Selvallafoss Waterfall, an enchanting Icelandic natural wonder that captivates every visitor.

As I drove towards tonight's accommodation, I stopped at FOK • Lífstíll & Gjafavara, a local shop, and picked up a few souvenirs for Lina. I wanted to bring her something special from this magical place. It wasn't long after that I arrived at my dinner destination, Skipper Restaurant, where I enjoyed some seafood. I made sure to have the catch of the day, which was cod. I thought of Jihad and how much he loves seafood. I will definitely need to recreate this dish for him when I get back home.


Explore FOK in Borgarnes for unique gifts, stylish clothing, and outdoor gear that captures the essence of Iceland's culture and beauty.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy setting.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Snorrastadir Farm Holidays, Gufuskálar, and Álftafjörður. I'm particularly looking forward to visiting Snorrastadir, as I've heard it's a beautiful and peaceful place. I will make sure to try Harbour Cafe for breakfast, Arnarstapi Center and Snjófell Restaurant for lunch, and Narfeyrarstofa for dinner. I will also make sure to visit the Narfeyrarstofa bar for a drink. I'm excited to see what new adventures tomorrow will bring.

Back at my guesthouse, I reflected on the day. From the volcanic heights of Eldborg to the lava-laden landscapes of Berserkjahraun and the soothing sounds of Selvallafoss, Snæfellsnes had revealed its many layers. Each location had its own unique charm, each with its own story to tell. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamed of sagas and berserkers, of fire and ice, and of the hidden beauty that lies waiting to be discovered in this magical corner of Iceland.