Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Finding Serenity on the Kumano Kodo

Today, Lena and I embraced the heart of the Kumano Kodo, a day dedicated to ancient trails and the quiet whispers of history. We ventured deeper into the spiritual essence of this pilgrimage, seeking not just the physical journey, but also the inner peace that comes from walking in the footsteps of centuries of seekers. It's amazing how much a change of scenery can alter your perspective; leaving behind the familiar sounds of Potsdam for the rustling leaves and distant temple bells has been incredibly refreshing.

Our day began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The traditional spread of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup fueled us for the day's trek. I even tried some *umeboshi* (pickled plum), which definitely woke up my taste buds! After breakfast, we set off towards the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

The path to the Dainichietsu trailhead was a gentle ascent, winding through a forest thick with cedar and cypress trees. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow on the moss-covered stones lining the path. The air was thick with humidity, a typical June day in this region, but the shade offered a welcome respite. As a sound engineer, I found myself particularly attuned to the sounds of the forest – the chirping of unseen birds, the rustling of leaves in the breeze, and the gentle murmur of a nearby stream. It was a symphony of nature, a far cry from the Foley studio, yet equally captivating.

Reaching the Dainichietsu trailhead felt like stepping back in time. This ancient path, once trod by emperors and pilgrims alike, exuded a sense of history and reverence. The trail itself was challenging, with steep, uneven steps carved into the mountainside. We took our time, carefully placing each foot, mindful of the pilgrims who had walked this same path centuries before us. Lena, ever the thoughtful kindergarten teacher, remarked on how the natural steps were like a metaphor for life – sometimes challenging, but always leading somewhere meaningful. This reminds me of our hikes in the forests around Potsdam, but those paths are definitely less steeped in history!


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

The Kumano Kodo is not just a path through the mountains, but a journey through time, spirit, and self.

After a couple of hours of hiking, we arrived at Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine. Nestled in a grove of ancient pine trees, the shrine exuded an aura of tranquility and peace. The shrine's history is rich, and it has been a place of spiritual significance for centuries. We took some time to explore the grounds, admiring the intricate carvings and the serene beauty of the surrounding landscape. I found myself drawn to the *torii* gate, its vermilion color a striking contrast to the green of the forest. I paused there, closed my eyes, and listened to the wind whispering through the trees. It was a moment of profound peace, a feeling of being connected to something larger than myself.


Explore the serene Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine, a Shinto gem in Wakayama, starting point for the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage with rich cultural heritage.

For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. This charming little restaurant offered a welcome respite from our hike. We enjoyed a delicious meal of *onigiri* (rice balls) and *miso* soup, savoring the simple flavors and the warmth of the hospitality. The owner, a kind-faced woman with a warm smile, told us stories of the Kumano Kodo and its significance to the local community. Lena, always eager to connect with people, chatted with her in broken Japanese, learning about the local customs and traditions.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

After lunch, we made a stop at KUMANOYASAI CAFE for a refreshing break. This cozy cafe is known for its organic, locally sourced ingredients. I opted for a green tea latte, while Lena enjoyed a slice of homemade cake. The cafe's relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff made it the perfect place to unwind and recharge before continuing our journey.


Discover the flavors of Wakayama at Kumonoyasai Cafe, where fresh ingredients meet a cozy atmosphere for a delightful dining experience.

As evening approached, we found ourselves at Tororoya for dinner. This restaurant specializes in *tororo* dishes – grated yam served over rice or noodles. I had never tried *tororo* before, but I was pleasantly surprised by its delicate flavor and smooth texture. Lena, always adventurous with food, declared it her new favorite dish. The restaurant itself was small and intimate, with a warm, inviting atmosphere. The staff were attentive and friendly, making us feel right at home.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we decided to stop by KUMANOYASAI CAFE again, this time for a different experience. We enjoyed a quiet drink, reflecting on the day's adventures and soaking in the peaceful ambiance of the Kumano Kodo. The cafe was dimly lit, with soft music playing in the background. It was the perfect setting to unwind and prepare for the next day's journey.

As we walked back, hand in hand, under the starlit sky, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for this experience. The Kumano Kodo had challenged us physically, but it had also nourished our souls. We had walked in the footsteps of pilgrims, explored ancient shrines, and connected with the natural beauty of Japan. It was a day I will never forget.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Totsui Limestone Cave and the dramatic cliffs of the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff [see tomorrow's itinerary]. I'm particularly excited to see the Totsui Limestone Cave, as I've always been fascinated by geology and the natural processes that shape our world. Lena is looking forward to visiting the Onigajō Cliff, as she loves the ocean and the rugged beauty of coastal landscapes. We'll start our day with breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE and plan to have lunch at Sansaro Cafe. Dinner will be at Kumagoro, which I've heard has amazing local cuisine. We might also stop by the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu for some local souvenirs [see tomorrow's itinerary].

I am also reminded that I forgot to pack insect repellent and a Japanese phrasebook! I will need to find a shop to buy these tomorrow.

What a day! I am looking forward to sharing more of our journey with you all.

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” – Lao Tzu