Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Footsteps

Today, Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of the Kumano Kodo, trading stories and laughter for the quiet contemplation of yesterday. The air was thick with the scent of pine and damp earth, a fragrance that seems to seep into your very soul here. It was a day of challenging climbs and breathtaking vistas, a testament to the enduring spirit of this ancient pilgrimage route.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE in Chikatsuyu. The owner, Shino, is such a warm and welcoming person. The cafe itself has a very tranquil atmosphere. I had a delicious bagel made with natural yeast, while Lena enjoyed a selection of locally grown vegetables. Fueled up, we set off towards the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The trail wound its way upwards, the path a mix of stone steps and earthy tracks. The forest canopy provided a welcome respite from the sun, though the humidity was definitely noticeable. I was glad I remembered to pack a raincoat, though I was kicking myself for forgetting the insect repellent [from TripEssentialsForgotten in TRIP DETAILS]. Lena, ever the pragmatist, simply rolled up her sleeves and pressed on [from Persona, Spouse, PersonalTraits].

The Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing was a challenging but rewarding experience. As we ascended, the views became increasingly panoramic, offering glimpses of the surrounding valleys and distant peaks. The trail was well-maintained, but there were still some steep sections that tested our stamina. We passed other hikers along the way, exchanging smiles and nods of encouragement. It's amazing how a shared experience, like tackling a mountain pass, can create an instant sense of camaraderie.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The path of a pilgrim is not just a physical journey, but a transformation of the soul, etched in every step taken.

Reaching the summit, we were rewarded with a truly spectacular vista. The Yoshino Kumano National Park stretched out before us, a tapestry of green forests and rolling hills. We took some time to simply sit and soak it all in, the silence broken only by the gentle rustling of leaves and the occasional birdsong. It was a moment of pure serenity, a chance to disconnect from the noise of everyday life and reconnect with the natural world.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Yoshino Kumano National Park, a serene escape into nature's heart in Japan's Nara Prefecture, rich in culture and adventure.

As we descended, we reflected on the history of this ancient route. For centuries, pilgrims have walked these trails, seeking spiritual enlightenment and connection with the divine. It's humbling to think that we were following in their footsteps, sharing in their journey, even if our motivations were somewhat different. I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence for the landscape and the stories it held.

For lunch, we stopped at Sansaro Cafe. This cafe has a very traditional feel to it. Lena had Omurice while I enjoyed a delicious curry. The cafe was near a fork in the road, and we could see other travellers taking a break from their journeys. It was a great place to relax and recharge before continuing our hike.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The afternoon was spent exploring more of the Yoshino Kumano National Park. The park is vast and diverse, with a range of hiking trails to suit all abilities. We chose a relatively easy route that took us through a dense forest, alongside a crystal-clear stream. The air was cool and refreshing, and the sounds of nature were all-encompassing. I tried to capture some of the sounds with my portable recorder, hoping to incorporate them into a future Foley project [from Persona, Occupation, Interests].

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Kumagoro for dinner. I had heard that they serve classic Japanese dishes made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant had a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and we were seated at a cozy table near the window. I had the sushi, which was some of the best I’ve ever had. Lena opted for the chicken teriyaki, which she said was equally delicious.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

After dinner, we decided to check out Wine Kumano. It was a small but nice restaurant. The food was excellent and the hosts were very friendly. We enjoyed a glass of local wine, reflecting on the day's adventures. It was the perfect way to end a day of hiking and exploration.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

The weather today was mostly cloudy, with temperatures ranging from 19°C to 25°C. There was a slight chance of rain, but we were lucky and stayed dry. The humidity was high, around 85%, but it didn't detract from our enjoyment of the day.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we plan to visit Seiganto-ji and Fudarakusan-ji [from TOMORROW'S ITINERARY], two more of the region's most important cultural sites. I'm particularly excited to see Seiganto-ji, with its iconic pagoda overlooking Nachi Falls. Lena is looking forward to visiting the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, as she wants to pick up some souvenirs for her kindergarteners [from Persona, Spouse, Occupation].

As I sit here writing this, my legs are tired but my heart is full. Today was a reminder of the simple pleasures in life: the beauty of nature, the joy of companionship, and the satisfaction of a good hike. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey for the soul.

I'm also reminded that I need to get better at packing. I really could have used that Japanese phrasebook today [from TripEssentialsForgotten in TRIP DETAILS]! So far, this trip has been a fantastic experience that I will never forget.

I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!