Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Sacred Steps and Market Treasures

Today was a beautiful blend of spiritual exploration and sensory indulgence. From the serene grounds of ancient shrines to the vibrant atmosphere of a local market, Kumano Kodo continued to reveal its many layers. It's days like these that remind me why Lena and I chose this pilgrimage – to connect with something deeper, and to savor every moment along the way.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Takehara. Lena and I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, fueling up for the day's adventures ahead. I savored the perfectly grilled fish, while Lena enjoyed the assortment of small dishes, each bursting with unique flavors. It was the perfect start before diving into the spiritual heart of Kumano. I even tried some local Shingu sake, which was sweet and moderately dry.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

Our first stop was the Kumano Hayatama Taisha. As one of the Kumano Sanzan, this shrine exudes a sense of history and reverence. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and incense as we approached the main hall. We took our time wandering through the grounds, admiring the architecture and the meticulous care given to every detail. The shrine is said to have been built to worship the gods who descended to earth on Gotobiki-iwa Rock. A highlight was the sacred Nagi tree, over 1,000 years old, its leaves believed to bring luck to married couples – a fitting symbol for our journey together. Lena and I made sure to take a moment to appreciate this ancient tree, feeling grateful for the journey we were sharing.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

The journey is the destination, and today, the path led us to unexpected treasures.

Next on our itinerary was Kamikura Shrine. Now, this was an experience! The shrine is perched atop a steep hill, accessible only by climbing 538 stone steps. Some of those steps are at a 45-degree angle. I must admit, my legs were burning by the time we reached the top, but the view was more than worth it. From our vantage point, we could see the entire Shingu area and the Kumano-nada Sea stretching out before us. The shrine itself is nestled beneath a massive, sacred rock called Gotobiki-iwa, believed to be the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. It was easy to see why this place is considered one of the most ancient sacred sites in the Kumano region.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine – a much easier task on the knees, I must say – we were ready for lunch. We stopped at Watarase Onsen Cafe. The cafe had a cozy atmosphere, and we decided to try their local specialties. Lena opted for a light noodle dish, while I went for a hearty curry. It was simple, satisfying, and just what we needed to recharge after our climb. I also learned that Watarase Onsen is known for its large outdoor hot spring baths, some of the largest in western Japan. Perhaps we'll return for a soak another day.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

With renewed energy, we headed to Toretore Market. This bustling market is a feast for the senses, with stalls overflowing with fresh seafood, local produce, and various other delicacies. The market is known as the largest seafood market in Western Japan. We wandered through the aisles, marveling at the variety of fish and shellfish on display. I was particularly fascinated by the tuna filleting show, where skilled chefs expertly carve up massive tunas. We sampled some local pickled plums, a Wakayama specialty, and picked up a few souvenirs for our friends back in Potsdam. The market also has a barbecue area where you can grill your purchases, but we decided to save our appetites for dinner.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.

As evening approached, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. This restaurant is known for its Kumano beef and fresh grilled seafood. I ordered a Kumano beef steak, cooked to perfection, while Lena chose the grilled seafood platter. Each bite was a burst of flavor, a testament to the quality of the local ingredients. The steak was so tender, it practically melted in my mouth. Lena raved about the freshness of the seafood, especially the prawns and scallops. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and discovery.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Tonight, as I reflect on our adventures, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude. We are planning to visit Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing and Yoshino Kumano National Park tomorrow. Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and delight us at every turn. The blend of ancient traditions, stunning landscapes, and delicious food is truly captivating. I feel a deeper connection to this place with each passing day, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings. And, of course, I'm already looking forward to our next culinary adventure. Wine Kumano sounds like the perfect spot for a nightcap after a long day of hiking.

Tomorrow, we're planning to tackle the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing, venturing deeper into the Yoshino Kumano National Park. I've heard the views are breathtaking, and I'm eager to experience the tranquility of the mountains. Lena is particularly excited about visiting Wine Kumano in the evening, a well-deserved treat after a day of hiking.

Before I sign off, I must mention that I realized I forgot to pack insect repellent. Hopefully, we won't encounter too many mosquitos on the trails tomorrow! I also regret not bringing a Japanese phrasebook; it would definitely enhance our interactions with the locals. But even without perfect Japanese, we're managing to communicate with smiles and gestures, and that's part of the fun.

Until tomorrow,
Georgios