Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

As my journey along the Kumano Kodo neared its end, I found myself reflecting on the profound experiences and spiritual awakenings that had unfolded over the past ten days. The ancient trails, with their echoes of pilgrims past, had offered a unique opportunity for introspection and connection with Japan's rich cultural heritage. Today was about soaking in the last moments of this transformative pilgrimage, and letting the serene soundscapes imprint themselves in my memory.

My final day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe in Kawayu Onsen. The morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of the surrounding forests. Sipping my coffee, I felt a sense of gratitude for the journey and the lessons it had taught me. Ms. Uzawa, the owner, was a gracious host, and after a quick chat about acoustic ecology, I thanked her for her hospitality and set off on the day's adventure.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

First on the agenda was a visit to Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine. This site holds immense significance as one of the five major Oji shrines and the traditional starting point for entering the sacred mountains of Kumano. As I stood at the confluence of the Tonda and Ishiburi Rivers, I could feel the weight of history and spirituality that permeated the air. According to local traditions, one of these rivers is associated with Sanzu-no-Kawa, the mythical river separating the living from the dead. It was a powerful reminder of the journey's symbolic nature – a passage from the ordinary to the sacred.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual essence of Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine in Wakayama, Japan, a hidden gem for travelers seeking peace and cultural insight.

The echoes of ancient footsteps along the Kumano Kodo serve as a reminder that we are all part of a larger, timeless narrative.

I spent some time exploring the shrine grounds, taking in the serene atmosphere and capturing the sounds of the flowing water with my portable audio recorder. The gentle murmur of the rivers created a natural soundscape that was both calming and invigorating. I imagined the countless pilgrims who had gathered here over the centuries, performing ablution rites to purify their bodies and spirits before embarking on their spiritual quest. The shrine's main building, constructed during the Meiji era (1867-1912), and the praying hall, built in the Taisho era (1912-1916), stood as testaments to the enduring legacy of the Kumano Kodo.

Next, I set out to hike a portion of the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. This well-preserved path, dating back to the Heian period, is renowned for its moss-covered stone steps and towering cedar trees. As I walked along the ancient route, I was enveloped by the tranquility of the surrounding forest. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and the only sounds were the rustling of leaves and the occasional chirping of birds. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating a play of light and shadow on the path ahead.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route: a UNESCO World Heritage site blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking landscapes.

The Daimon-saka route is steeped in history and legend, and every step felt like a connection to the past. I paused to admire the massive 800-year-old cedar trees that flank the beginning of the trail, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. These ancient trees have witnessed centuries of pilgrims passing by, their silent presence adding to the spiritual ambiance of the route. The stone pavement beneath my feet was uneven and worn, a testament to the countless journeys that had been made along this path.

After a refreshing hike, it was time for lunch. I stopped at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a charming eatery in one of Japan's oldest hot spring towns. The dining hall is known for its traditional teishoku meals, featuring local ingredients and presented with artistic flair. I savored a delicious set meal, complete with miso soup, rice, and grilled fish, while soaking in the warm and welcoming atmosphere of the dining hall. I even tried an onsen tamago (hot spring egg), a local specialty cooked in the town's hot springs. It was a unique and flavorful experience, perfectly complementing the serene surroundings.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

In the late afternoon, I treated myself to a well-deserved break at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment combines a guesthouse with a winery and an Italian restaurant, offering a delightful blend of Japanese and European hospitality. I sampled some of their local wine, made with grapes grown in the surrounding vineyards, and enjoyed the stunning views of Tanabe Bay. The owners, Giovanni and his wife, have created a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a day of hiking. Giovanni, who previously ran an Italian restaurant in Kyoto, is known for his Verona-style meals made with locally sourced ingredients.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

For my final dinner on the Kumano Kodo, I chose Kumagoro, a local restaurant known for its delicious and hearty meals. I decided to try their ramen, a comforting and flavorful dish that seemed like the perfect way to end my pilgrimage. As I savored each bite, I reflected on the incredible journey I had undertaken. The Kumano Kodo had challenged me physically, mentally, and spiritually, and I emerged from the experience feeling renewed and inspired.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the mountains, I made my way back to my accommodation. The air was filled with the sounds of crickets and the gentle murmur of the nearby river. I felt a deep sense of peace and contentment, knowing that I had experienced something truly special. The Kumano Kodo had left an indelible mark on my soul, and I would carry its lessons with me long after I returned home.

Tomorrow marks the end of my journey through the Kumano Kodo. It's time to head back to Berlin, with a heart full of memories and a recorder full of the sounds of this magical place. This pilgrimage has not only enriched my understanding of acoustic ecology but also deepened my appreciation for the beauty and spirituality of Japan. Until next time, sayōnara!