Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Past

Today, the Kumano Kodo whispered secrets of centuries past as I walked its ancient paths. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and the murmur of unseen streams, creating a symphony that resonated deep within my soul. It was a day of quiet contemplation, a chance to connect with the pilgrims who walked this route before me, seeking solace and enlightenment. It's days like these that make me appreciate my work capturing the essence of a place through its sounds.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe had a rustic charm, and I enjoyed bagels and muffins. Fuelled up, I set off to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, specifically the Chikatsuyu-Oji to Kobiro-Oji section.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.

The trail was a mix of gentle slopes and steep inclines, each step bringing me closer to nature. The verdant landscape was a photographer's paradise, and I paused frequently to capture the beauty of the ancient cedar forests and picturesque mountain views.

As I walked, I thought of Lena back in Potsdam. I imagined her telling stories to her kindergarteners, her auburn hair cascading around her gentle face. I wished she could experience this tranquility with me, but I knew she was happy nurturing young minds. Perhaps one day, we could return together, hand in hand, to walk these sacred trails.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those taken in solitude, where the only voice you hear is your own.

The Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section) meandered through verdant landscapes, ancient cedar forests, and picturesque mountain views. The path was well-marked and suitable for various skill levels. As I walked along the path, I encountered ancient shrines and resting places. Each step I took was a step through history, where every stone tells a story of devotion and reverence.

I made my way to Tsugizakura-Oji. The shrine exuded a sense of serenity, and I took a moment to offer a silent prayer for peace and well-being. The giant cedars surrounding the shrine were estimated to be around 800 years old. I could feel the weight of history in their presence.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

After a morning of hiking and reflection, I was ready for lunch. I stopped at Tororoya, a restaurant known for its healthy and delicious food options. I had a bowl of tororo meshi, made with Yamato potato. The barley rice was delicious. It was a welcome respite, and I savored every bite, feeling grateful for the simple pleasures of life. I made a mental note to try and recreate this dish back in Potsdam, perhaps with a Mediterranean twist.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

In the afternoon, I visited the Kumano Kodo Information Center. The center provided a wealth of knowledge about the pilgrimage routes, local history, and cultural heritage. I learned about the significance of the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano, and the role of the Oji shrines as resting places for pilgrims. I picked up a few maps and brochures, eager to delve deeper into the history of this sacred region.


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. The steakhouse had a classic atmosphere, and I indulged in a juicy Kumano beef hamburger steak. The meat was tender and flavorful, a perfect reward for a day of walking and contemplation.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

The restaurant opened in 1972 and is run by the second-generation owner. The flagship item is a hamburg made from 100% local high-quality “Kumano” beef. For lunch, there's a set that includes a juicy hamburg along with Katsuura tuna steak. For dinner, you can enjoy steak made with Kumano beef and Japanese black beef as well as fresh grilled seafood.

I thought about my bouzouki, sitting patiently in its case back in Potsdam. I imagined playing a traditional Greek tune, the melancholic notes echoing through our cozy apartment. Music, like travel, has a way of connecting us to something larger than ourselves.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that the Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery. It's a chance to disconnect from the noise of modern life and reconnect with the rhythms of nature. It's an opportunity to reflect on the past, appreciate the present, and contemplate the future. As a sound engineer, I'm constantly seeking to capture the essence of a place through its sounds. But today, I realized that sometimes, the most profound experiences are those that can't be recorded, only felt.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine and hike the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. I'm looking forward to more exploration and contemplation on this incredible pilgrimage.

As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a sense of gratitude for this solo journey. It's not always easy traveling alone, but it allows for a level of introspection that's hard to achieve when you're with others. The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the superficial and revealing the essence of who you are. And that, I realized, is a gift worth cherishing.