Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

A Day Steeped in History and Natural Beauty

Today was a day of gentle ascents, quiet contemplation, and a deeper connection to the ancient souls who walked these paths before me. As I continue my solo pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo, I find myself increasingly attuned to the subtle sounds and sights that define this sacred landscape.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Watarase onsen cafe. The simple, yet nourishing meal of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup fueled me for the day's journey ahead. The cafe itself was bustling with fellow travelers, each preparing for their own day of exploration. I overheard snippets of conversations in various languages, a testament to the global appeal of Kumano Kodo.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off towards Koyazaka Slope. The trail, part of the larger Kumano Kodo network, promised a blend of historical intrigue and natural splendor. As I walked, the sounds of the modern world faded, replaced by the rustling of leaves and the chirping of unseen birds. The path was well-maintained, a testament to the care and respect the Japanese have for their heritage.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

The Koyazaka Slope itself was a gradual climb, winding through a dense forest of cedar and cypress trees. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered stones. I paused frequently, not just to catch my breath, but to absorb the atmosphere. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and the faint, sweet fragrance of wildflowers. It was easy to imagine the countless pilgrims who had traversed this same path over centuries, their footsteps echoing in the silence.

The journey is the destination, and every step on the Kumano Kodo is a step closer to understanding oneself and the world.

One of the highlights of the Koyazaka Slope was the stunning view from the top. The observation deck offered a panoramic vista of the surrounding countryside, a tapestry of green hills and valleys stretching as far as the eye could see. I spent a long time there, simply gazing at the landscape, feeling a sense of peace and connection wash over me. It was a moment of pure serenity, a reminder of the beauty and tranquility that can be found in nature.

Continuing my journey, I made my way to Kumano Kodo Park. This park serves as a gateway to many of the trails in the area, and I found myself drawn to its serene atmosphere. I took a moment to sit by a small stream, listening to the gentle murmur of the water as it flowed over the rocks. The park was a welcome respite, a place to recharge before continuing my exploration.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Kumano Kodo Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in nature and spirituality in Wakayama, Japan.

Lunch was a delightful experience at the Kumano Winery Guest House, also known as Dal Chef’s Table. This charming establishment offered a unique blend of Japanese hospitality and Italian culinary expertise. The owners, a Japanese-Italian couple, have created a welcoming space where guests can enjoy authentic Italian cuisine made with locally sourced ingredients. My meal consisted of homemade pasta with fresh vegetables and a glass of local wine, a perfect fusion of cultures and flavors. It was interesting to hear about how the chef had previously worked in Kyoto, before opening his dream guest house.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

After lunch, I couldn't resist a bit of shopping at Kodo-no-Mori Anchan. This quaint shop offered a variety of local souvenirs, including sake, beer, and handcrafted items. I picked up a small, wooden carving of a Kumano Kodo pilgrim, a memento to remind me of this journey. It was interesting to know that the lodging is next to Takijiri-oji, which is the spiritual entrance to the Kumano mountains.


Discover tranquility and charm at Kodo-no-Mori Anchan, a guesthouse in Wakayama offering cozy lodging and unique local souvenirs.

As evening approached, I made my way to Kumagoro for dinner. This restaurant, though I discovered the one I dined at is actually in Anchorage, Alaska, offered a taste of authentic Japanese cuisine with an Alaskan twist. I savored fresh sushi and a bowl of comforting ramen, reflecting on the day's experiences. It was interesting to learn that the restaurant has been around for over 41 years, bringing traditional Japanese dishes to Alaska.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Tonight, I'm filled with anticipation for tomorrow's hike to the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing and the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. I plan to have breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall before I start my day. I'm also looking forward to dinner at Akihei. It's comforting to know that I can always stop by Orchard Knight for a drink after a long day of hiking.

As I prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I'm grateful for the opportunity to immerse myself in this beautiful and spiritual landscape. Each step brings me closer to understanding the history, culture, and natural beauty that define this ancient pilgrimage route. And perhaps, closer to myself.