Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

A Day of Reverence and Reflection

Today, I set out to explore the spiritual heart of Shingu, a town steeped in history and nestled along the Kumano Kodo. My journey was a blend of ancient traditions, natural beauty, and the simple pleasures of local cuisine. It was a day of reverence and reflection, a chance to connect with the echoes of the past.

My day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The Omotenashi-Kan is a charming spot housed in a beautifully renovated 130-year-old house. I savored a simple yet satisfying meal, surrounded by the quiet charm of Kumano City. This building, facing Honmachi Street, is a nationally registered tangible cultural property. It was the perfect way to fuel up for the day's adventures. It's amazing to see how these old buildings are repurposed and continue to serve the community and travelers alike.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.
With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I made my way to Kumano Hayatama Taisha. This grand shrine, one of the three Kumano Sanzan, stands at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River. The continuous flow of water from the Kii Mountains into the Pacific Ocean creates a powerful and serene atmosphere. As I approached the shrine, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe. The air was thick with history and reverence. Kumano Hayatama Taisha is said to have been built to worship the gods who descended to earth on Gotobiki-iwa Rock in Kamikura-Jinja Shrine. The main deities are Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami, husband and wife. According to legend, these deities, also known as Izanagi no Mikoto and Izanami no Mikoto, are the mythological founders of the Japanese archipelago.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.
The ancient Nagi tree, estimated to be over 800 years old, stood majestically within the shrine's compound. Its presence highlighted the deep tradition of nature worship in the area. The Nagi tree was offered in 1159 by Taira no Shigemori, a noble samurai. The leaves are difficult to tear off and can be kept as lucky charms for wealth or a happy marriage. Walking through the shrine, I paused to admire the intricate details of the architecture and the peacefulness of the surroundings. The Treasure Hall houses over a dozen national treasures, including offerings brought by pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo.

The echoes of the past resonate deeply in every corner of Kumano, inviting reflection and connection.

Next on my itinerary was Kamikura Shrine. This ancient shrine is located halfway up Mt. Gongen-yama. Reaching it required climbing 538 steep stone steps. Some of these steps are as steep as 45 degrees. The climb was challenging, but the reward was well worth the effort. As I ascended, I took in the breathtaking views of the Shingu area and the Kumano-nada Sea. Kamikura Shrine is said to be where the gods first descended to earth. The shrine's object of worship is a massive boulder called Gotobiki-iwa. Many bronze vessels from the Yayoi period have been discovered around the boulder.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.
The panoramic view from the top was simply stunning. The vast expanse of the sea met the sky, creating a sense of boundless freedom. I could see the entire Shingu area, stretching out before me like a living map. It was a perfect spot for quiet contemplation, a place to reflect on the journey and the beauty of the surroundings. I spent some time simply sitting on one of the rocks, soaking in the view and the peaceful atmosphere. It was a moment of pure serenity.

For lunch, I ventured to Kumano YASAI CAFE, a charming café known for its fresh, local ingredients. The café is located in a renovated sake store warehouse. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, with a rustic charm that made me feel right at home. I savored a delicious meal made with locally sourced vegetables and other regional specialties. It was a delightful culinary experience that perfectly complemented the day's spiritual journey. The cafe bakes bagels and muffins for those venturing on the Kumano Kodo trail.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.
As evening approached, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. This steakhouse has been a local favorite since 1972. They are known for their hamburg made from 100% local high-quality Kumano beef. I indulged in a juicy steak, perfectly cooked to my liking, and savored every bite. It was a satisfying end to a day filled with exploration and reflection. The restaurant offers a course menu including hamburger, steak, seafood, salad, and rice.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
To cap off the evening, I made a stop at Why Kumano, a local bar. This cozy spot is a hostel, café, and bar all in one. I enjoyed a refreshing drink and chatted with some of the locals, learning more about the area and its rich history. It was a great way to unwind and soak in the local atmosphere. The bar is located in front of the Kii-Katsuura train station. The managers are friendly and have a wealth of local information. They offer local craft beer and sake.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.
As I walked back to my accommodation, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Shingu had revealed its spiritual heart to me, leaving me with a sense of peace and connection. The ancient shrines, the natural beauty, and the warmth of the local people had all contributed to a truly unforgettable journey. Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of the Kumano Kodo with visits to Koyazaka Slope and Kumano Kodo Park. I'm eager to see what new adventures await me on the path.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey into the soul of Japan. It's a place where the past and present intertwine, where nature and spirituality converge, and where the simple pleasures of life are celebrated. I encourage anyone seeking a meaningful travel experience to consider embarking on this incredible adventure. You won't be disappointed.

As I prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I'm reminded of a quote by the great Greek philosopher, Heraclitus:

The only constant is change.

This journey has been a testament to that, and I'm excited to see what transformations tomorrow brings.