Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Waterfall

Today was a day of deep immersion into the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo. I explored sacred grounds where the echoes of ancient pilgrims resonate, and the natural world sings a song of peace and reflection. It's a journey that touches the soul, reminding me of the interconnectedness of nature, history, and personal growth.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase Onsen cafe. The traditional Japanese breakfast set me up perfectly for the day ahead – a mix of grilled fish, miso soup and rice. Fuelled up, I was ready to tackle the day's itinerary: Kumano-Nachi Taisha and its Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

The bus ride to Kumano Nachi Taisha was an experience in itself. The winding roads offered stunning views of the lush landscape, a prelude to the natural beauty that awaited me. As we climbed higher, the air grew cooler, and a sense of anticipation filled me. I could feel the weight of history and spirituality that permeates this region.

Arriving at Kumano Nachi Taisha, I was immediately struck by the grandeur of the shrine. Nestled halfway up Nachi Mountain, about 350 meters above sea level, the shrine has a history stretching back 1,700 years. It was initially founded to worship the Nachi Waterfall, and it continues to honor that tradition of reverence for nature. The vibrant vermillion of the buildings stood out against the verdant backdrop of the mountains, creating a striking visual contrast.


Discover the spiritual heart of Japan at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a UNESCO World Heritage site blending nature, culture, and tranquility.

Wandering through the shrine complex, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. The air was filled with the gentle sounds of wind chimes and the distant rush of the Nachi Waterfall. I paused at the main hall, offering a small prayer for continued inspiration and clarity on my journey. I found myself reflecting on the words Lena had said before I left, about finding peace and inspiration in nature. I could feel that sentiment growing stronger with each step I took.

One of the most striking aspects of Kumano Nachi Taisha is its integration with the neighboring Seiganto-ji Temple. This blending of Shinto and Buddhist traditions is a testament to the harmonious coexistence of different faiths in Japan. For much of their history, the shrine and temple functioned as one religious institution, a practice that reflects the unique spiritual landscape of Kumano.

The essence of Kumano Nachi Taisha lies not just in its stunning architecture or natural setting, but in its profound ability to connect visitors with the spiritual heart of Japan.

I took the opportunity to explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. Inside, I discovered a fascinating collection of historical artifacts that offered insights into the shrine's history and religious practices. The Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a 500-year-old graphic representation of the shrine and its cosmology, was particularly impressive. It was amazing to see how well-preserved it was, a testament to the care and dedication of those who maintain it. I also learned about the mirrors used in the Nachi Fire Festival and the sacred sword believed to have descended from the heavens. Each artifact told a story, painting a vivid picture of the shrine's rich cultural heritage.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

Leaving the Treasure Hall, I made my way towards the Nachi Waterfall. As I approached, the sound of the cascading water grew louder, building anticipation. When I finally caught sight of the falls, I was awestruck. Plunging 133 meters, Nachi Waterfall is the tallest single-tiered waterfall in Japan. It has been venerated as a sacred site since ancient times, long before the arrival of organized religion. Standing at the base of the falls, I felt a sense of awe and humility. The sheer power and beauty of the water were mesmerizing, and I could understand why this place has been considered sacred for centuries.

The falls are sourced by the surrounding broad-leaf evergreen primeval forest. This forest has been protected since ancient times and is used for ascetic training by mountain monks who practice Shugendo, a mixed religion of foreign and indigenous beliefs. The connection between the falls and the forest creates a powerful sense of place, one that is both deeply spiritual and profoundly natural.

After spending time at the waterfall, I decided to visit the Nachisan Sightseeing Center to pick up a few souvenirs. I found a charming array of local crafts and treats. I selected a few small items, including some Otaki Mochi, chewy rice cakes that resemble the Nachi Waterfall. I thought they would be a perfect gift for Lena, a sweet reminder of my journey.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

For lunch, I stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. This restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese dishes and warm, welcoming atmosphere. I opted for the okonomiyaki, a savory pancake made right at my table. It was a delicious and interactive experience, and I enjoyed chatting with the friendly owner. The flavors were incredible, and it was evident that the ingredients were fresh and locally sourced.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

As evening approached, I made my way to KUMANOYASAI CAFE for dinner. This cafe is a hidden gem along the Kumano Kodo, known for its delicious traditional meals and charming atmosphere. I enjoyed a weekly lunch set featuring fresh, local vegetables. The cafe's commitment to using seasonal ingredients was evident in every bite, and I appreciated the opportunity to support a local business that values sustainability.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and connection that I experienced at Kumano Nachi Taisha. The combination of natural beauty, ancient history, and spiritual traditions creates a unique and powerful atmosphere. It's a place where one can truly disconnect from the stresses of modern life and reconnect with the deeper rhythms of nature and the soul.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Oyunohara, the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, and visit the Fushiogami Teahouse. I'm also looking forward to unwinding at HANGOVER bar in the evening. I anticipate another day filled with discovery and reflection, as I continue my pilgrimage through this sacred landscape.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and natural heritage. It's a place where the echoes of the past resonate, and the whispers of the wind carry messages of peace and inspiration. It’s an experience I will treasure forever.