Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

Day 2: Dancing with Waterfalls and Whispers of Temples

Today was a symphony of natural power and spiritual reflection. Leaving the cozy embrace of Yunomine Onsen, I set out to explore two of the most iconic landmarks in the Kumano region. It was a day where the thundering roar of water met the silent whispers of ancient temples, creating a harmony that resonated deep within my soul.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. Fuelled up with local delicacies, I felt ready to take on the day's adventures. The dining hall had a warm, inviting atmosphere, perfect for starting the day.

The morning air was thick with humidity, a typical summer day in Japan. As I made my way towards Nachi Falls, the anticipation grew with each step. I could hear the distant roar of the water, a primal sound that promised something truly awe-inspiring.

Nachi Waterfall: A Cascade of Divine Energy

Reaching Nachi Falls was like stepping into another world. The sheer magnitude of the waterfall is breathtaking. Dropping 133 meters in a single, uninterrupted cascade, it is the tallest waterfall in Japan with a single drop. The sight of the water plummeting down the cliff face was mesmerizing, a raw display of nature's power.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Nachi Waterfall, Japan's tallest waterfall, an iconic natural and spiritual landmark in Wakayama.

I spent a good while simply standing there, feeling the mist on my face and listening to the thunderous roar. The falls are considered sacred, a dwelling place of a Shinto deity. It's easy to understand why. There's an undeniable energy here, a sense of something ancient and powerful. I could feel it resonating within me, a deep connection to the natural world.

I decided to visit Hiro Shrine, located at the base of the waterfall. The shrine is dedicated to the waterfall's deity, and it's a place of quiet reverence. I took a moment to offer a prayer, expressing my gratitude for the beauty and power of this place.

For a small fee, you can also taste the pure waterfall water, said to grant good fortune and long life. I couldn't resist. The water was cool and refreshing, and who knows, maybe it did bring a bit of good fortune my way.

The sound of Nachi Falls is a primal symphony, a reminder of the earth's raw power and enduring beauty.

Seiganto-ji: A Temple by the Falls

From Nachi Falls, I made my way to Seiganto-ji Temple. This Tendai Buddhist temple is located right next to the waterfall, creating a unique blend of Shinto and Buddhist traditions. It's a testament to the harmonious relationship between nature and spirituality in Japan.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

The temple itself is beautiful, with a striking three-story pagoda that stands in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape. The vermillion color of the pagoda pops against the lush green backdrop, creating a picture-perfect scene.

Seiganto-ji is the oldest temple in the Kumano area and the first stop on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage. As I walked through the temple grounds, I could feel the weight of history, the countless prayers and footsteps that have passed through this sacred place over the centuries.

The temple was supposedly founded in the 4th century by an Indian monk. It has been rebuilt a few times, most recently by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587. The Nyorindo Hall is the main hall of the temple and an Important Cultural Property.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Seiganto-ji is its connection to Nachi Falls. The temple was built near the falls, possibly on a site that was previously used for nature worship. Even today, the temple and the waterfall are closely linked, with many people visiting both sites as part of their pilgrimage.

I took some time to explore the Ryuhoden (Treasure Hall), which houses many important archaeological artifacts that were found near Nachi Falls. These artifacts, including statues, mirrors, and sutra cylinders, offer a glimpse into the rich history and spirituality of the Kumano region.

As I stood there, gazing at the cascading water and the elegant pagoda, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace wash over me. It was a moment of perfect harmony, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all things.

A Culinary Journey Through Kumano

After a day of exploring, it was time to indulge in some local cuisine. For lunch, I ventured to Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. This charming spot, a short distance from the Kumano Kodo, offers an authentic Italian culinary experience with a focus on local ingredients. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is passionate about creating Verona-style meals that showcase the flavors of the region.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

I savored the delightful dishes, each bite a testament to the chef's skill and dedication. The guest house itself is nestled in a rural farmhouse, surrounded by vineyards and offering stunning views of Tanabe Bay. It's a perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in the tranquility of the Kumano countryside.

As evening approached, I headed to Kumagoro for dinner. This inviting izakaya in Shingu is known for its fresh seafood and grilled specialties. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and I felt right at home as I sampled the local delicacies. I tried the Katsuura Tuna with Neck Meat, the Fried Chicken Wings and the Dashimaki Fried Eggs. The staff were friendly and helpful, and I enjoyed chatting with them about the local area.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Before heading back for the night I decided to check out Wine Kumano. It was a great way to wind down after a day of exploring, and I enjoyed sampling some of the local wines. The bar has a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were knowledgeable about the wines they served. It’s a popular spot, known for its natural wine, craft beer, and coffee. They also offer a multi-course vegetarian meal that can be made vegan.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

Reflections on the Day and Anticipation for Tomorrow

As I reflect on today's journey, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. The Kumano Kodo has a way of touching your soul, of connecting you to something larger than yourself. The raw power of Nachi Falls, the serene beauty of Seiganto-ji, and the warmth of the local people have all left an indelible mark on my heart.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of the Kumano Nachi Taisha area, with visits to Kumano-Nachi Taisha itself and the Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. I'm also looking forward to trying some new restaurants, including Watarase onsen cafe for breakfast, Yorozuya Eatery for lunch and KUMANOYASAI CAFE for dinner. Before that, I might check out the Nachisan Sightseeing Center.

But for now, it's time to rest and recharge, to let the memories of today's adventures sink in. The whispers of water and ancient echoes will stay with me, a reminder of the beauty and spirituality that can be found in the heart of Japan. I am also reminded that I need to buy a power adapter, sunscreen and an extra memory card for my camera!

I am also mindful that on July 14th each year, the Nachi Fire Festival (Nachi no Ogi Matsuri) takes place, but I will have left by then.

I am also aware that there is a tour that departs from Nagoya that goes to Kumano Kodo and Nachi Waterfall.