Solo Pilgrimage Through Japan's Spiritual Heart: Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the River

Today was a symphony of sights, sounds, and tastes, a journey deep into the heart of the Kumano region's natural beauty. From the breathtaking Doro Kyo Gorge, to the gentle Kumano River cruise, every moment was a sensory experience, punctuated by delightful culinary stops along the way. It’s days like these that remind me why I traded my studio in Potsdam for the open road, seeking out the world's hidden acoustic treasures.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The aroma of traditional Japanese breakfast filled the air, a comforting mix of grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice. It's amazing how a simple meal can set the tone for the entire day, grounding you in the local culture and preparing you for the adventures ahead. I overheard snippets of conversations in Japanese, a mix of excitement and anticipation from fellow travelers eager to explore the Kumano Kodo. I made sure to get a few onsen tamago, eggs cooked in the hot spring waters, a local delicacy. The unique mineral flavor was a perfect start to my day.

Fueled and ready, I set off for Doro Kyo Gorge. The journey itself was an experience, winding through lush, green landscapes that seemed to swallow the road whole. As I approached the gorge, the air grew cooler, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient trees. The sight that greeted me was nothing short of majestic. Towering cliffs, carved by centuries of erosion, rose dramatically from the emerald waters of the Kitayama River. The play of light and shadow on the rock faces created an ethereal atmosphere, a natural cathedral of stone and water.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.

The beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge is a testament to the patient artistry of nature, a reminder that time and water can carve masterpieces from stone.

I decided to take a Kumano Boat River Cruise to fully immerse myself in the beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge. The boat, a traditional wooden vessel, glided silently through the water, allowing me to fully appreciate the scale and grandeur of the gorge. The guide shared stories of the river's history, its importance as a pilgrimage route, and the legends woven into its currents. I closed my eyes for a moment, letting the sounds of the river wash over me – the gentle lapping of water against the hull, the distant calls of birds, the rustling of leaves in the wind. These are the sounds I live for, the raw, unfiltered acoustics of nature that tell a story more profound than any symphony.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The towering rock formations stood more than 50 meters above the river, their mystic beauty casting a spell. Known as Doro-Haccho, the gorge has been designated as a place of scenic beauty since ancient times. I learned that jet boat cruises were discontinued in 2020, but the riverboat tour I was on offered an intimate experience.

After the cruise, my stomach started to rumble, so I hiked to the Fushiogami Teahouse for lunch. This charming teahouse, nestled along the Kumano Kodo, offered a serene retreat and a taste of authentic Japanese culture. I savored a cup of traditional green tea and a selection of local snacks, enjoying the peaceful ambiance and the stunning views of the surrounding greenery. It was a moment of perfect tranquility, a chance to reflect on the day's adventures and recharge before continuing my journey.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As the afternoon wore on, I decided to explore the Toretore Market, a bustling hub of local produce and seafood. The market was a feast for the senses, a vibrant tapestry of colors, smells, and sounds. I wandered through the stalls, admiring the fresh catches of the day, the rows of pickled plums, and the displays of locally brewed sake. I couldn't resist trying some of the grilled seafood, savoring the smoky flavors and the taste of the sea. The market was also a great place to pick up some souvenirs, a small piece of the Kumano region to take back home to Lena.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.

For dinner, I chose Takehara, a restaurant known for its local cuisine. The menu featured a variety of dishes, but I opted for a regional specialty, a delicious seafood hotpot. The broth was rich and flavorful, infused with the essence of the sea, and the seafood was incredibly fresh. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and discovery.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the stars began to emerge, casting a soft glow over the landscape. The sounds of the night were different from those of the day, a chorus of crickets and the gentle murmur of the wind. I thought about Lena back in Potsdam, and how much she would have loved this day. I made a mental note to bring her here someday, to share these experiences with her.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kamikura Shrine. I might even check out Why Kumano, a local bar, for a nightcap. But for now, I'll drift off to sleep, lulled by the echoes of the river and the memories of a day well spent.

The journey continues, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings.