Solo Journey to the Enchanting Hvar Island

A Tapestry of Time and Stone

Today, I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping back in time, interwoven with the vibrant pulse of modern island life. Hvar continues to surprise me with its ability to seamlessly blend the ancient and the contemporary, offering a unique travel experience that resonates deeply with my soul. It's days like these that remind me why I traded the predictable comfort of Hannover for the unpredictable allure of solo travel.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at Spice Asian Food in Stari Grad. It might seem odd to start a day in Croatia with Asian cuisine, but the fusion of flavors was a welcome and energizing start. Fueled up, I set out to explore the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This agricultural landscape, cultivated since the 4th century BC by Greek colonists, is a testament to human ingenuity and resilience.


Explore Croatia's Stari Grad Plain: a UNESCO-listed ancient Greek agricultural landscape with vineyards, olive groves, and timeless charm.

As I wandered through the plain, I was struck by the intricate network of dry stone walls. These walls, built without mortar, have stood for over 24 centuries, a testament to the skill and dedication of the people who built them. They divide the land into precise geometric parcels, a system known as *chora*, which has been maintained and respected through generations. It felt like walking through a living museum, where the past is not just remembered but actively preserved and utilized.

The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of the earth and the distant sea. The autumn sun cast long shadows across the fields, highlighting the textures of the stone and the vibrant greens of the crops still growing. Olives and grapes, the same crops cultivated by the ancient Greeks, thrive here, connecting the present to the distant past. I imagined the hands that had toiled these fields for centuries, their lives intertwined with the rhythms of the land.

The Stari Grad Plain is more than just an agricultural landscape; it's a living testament to the enduring connection between humanity and the land.

After immersing myself in the history of the Stari Grad Plain, I decided to seek out something a little more quirky and unusual: a rock formation known as “The Brain.” This intriguing geological feature is located near Vrboska, and I was curious to see what it was all about. The walk to The Brain took me through some beautiful coastal scenery, with glimpses of the turquoise sea and the rugged coastline. The landscape was dotted with pine trees and the air was filled with the scent of the Mediterranean flora.


Discover The Brain in Hvar, a captivating tourist attraction blending art and intellect with immersive experiences for curious travelers.

As I approached the site, I could see the unique rock formation rising from the landscape. It's easy to see why it's called “The Brain” – the convoluted, rounded shapes of the rocks do indeed resemble the folds of a human brain. While its exact geological origins remain a topic of speculation, I couldn't help but marvel at the forces of nature that had sculpted this unusual formation. The Brain Terrain is dominantly found in a narrow range of latitudes and elevations, with the largest fraction occurring around 40°N at the dichotomy boundary in the northern hemisphere, and form dominantly on slopes
I spent some time exploring the area around The Brain, clambering over the rocks and taking in the panoramic views. It was a perfect spot for contemplation, a place to connect with the natural world and reflect on the wonders of our planet. The solitude was broken only by the occasional call of a seagull and the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore.

For lunch, I ventured to Konoba Bonaca, a charming restaurant that offered a taste of authentic Croatian cuisine. I savored grilled fish, fresh from the Adriatic, accompanied by a glass of local wine. The flavors were simple yet exquisite, a true reflection of the island's culinary heritage. The Konoba was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and the delicious food.


Discover authentic Croatian barbecue and seafood at Konoba Bonaca in beautiful Hvar - a must-visit culinary gem!

In the late afternoon, I indulged in a bit of shopping at Croativity, a local shop in Stari Grad. I picked up a few souvenirs for Astrid and Maximilian, little reminders of my journey to Hvar. I am sure Astrid will love the lavender products I bought, and Maximilian will appreciate the local olive oil.


Explore Croativity in Stari Grad: A boutique showcasing unique local crafts and treasures, perfect for memorable souvenirs.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Lola Bar, a popular spot known for its cocktails and lively atmosphere. I enjoyed a refreshing drink while watching the sky transform into a canvas of vibrant colors. The bar was filled with people from all walks of life, sharing stories and laughter. It was a perfect way to end the day, soaking in the vibrant energy of Hvar's nightlife.


Experience the vibrant nightlife of Hvar at Lola Bar, where expertly crafted cocktails and a lively atmosphere await every visitor.

Dinner was at Gariful, a renowned restaurant known for its seafood and stunning waterfront location. I treated myself to a delicious meal of grilled octopus, savoring each bite as I watched the boats bobbing gently in the harbor. The restaurant was elegant and sophisticated, a fitting end to a day of exploration and discovery.


Discover Gariful in Hvar – where exquisite seafood meets stunning coastal views for an unforgettable dining experience.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Spanish Fortress Cannon's and Hvar Port. I am looking forward to discovering more of Hvar's rich history and natural beauty. I'll start with breakfast at Il Porto, followed by lunch at Zlatna Školjka, and dinner at Plava Alga. I also plan to do some shopping at VILEBREQUIN and unwind at Secret Bar Evil Baby.

As I reflect on my day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Hvar. This island has a way of capturing your heart and leaving you wanting more. It's a place where the past and the present coexist in harmony, where natural beauty abounds, and where the spirit of adventure is always alive. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

It's funny, isn't it? Here I am, a librarian from Hannover, finding myself utterly captivated by ancient stones and quirky rock formations. Perhaps it's the librarian in me that appreciates the stories etched into the landscape, or maybe it's just the simple human desire to connect with something bigger than myself. Whatever the reason, I'm grateful for every moment of this journey.