Exploring the Cultural Riches of Fes with Friends

A Day of Discovery in Fes

Today, Fes revealed more of its captivating layers. From the serene halls of a museum to the poignant history of a synagogue and the bustling streets of a historic Jewish quarter, it was a day of cultural immersion that left me with a deeper appreciation for this city's rich tapestry. Join me as I recount our adventures through the heart of Fes, a journey filled with beauty, history, and the simple joys of exploring with friends.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurant Ouliya. It was included with our Riad, which was just across the street. The food was delicious and varied slightly each day. I especially loved the ambience and the warm, helpful staff, who gave us great tips about navigating the Medina. I’m so glad we chose to stay in a Riad; it really adds to the whole Moroccan experience. I remember when Maximilian and I were backpacking through Southeast Asia, we always sought out the most authentic local experiences. This feels similar, but with a touch more luxury, which is always welcome these days!

After breakfast, we set out to explore the Dar Batha Museum, also known as the Museum of Moroccan Arts. It's housed in a stunning 19th-century palace built in the Hispano-Moorish style. The building itself is a work of art, with intricate designs and vibrant colors that reflect the diverse influences of Arab, Berber, and Andalusian cultures. I’ve always been drawn to museums, especially those that showcase local artistry. It reminds me of visiting the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo as a child and being completely awestruck by the craftsmanship of our ancestors.


Explore the rich cultural heritage of Morocco at Dar Batha Museum, featuring exquisite artifacts and traditional artistry in the heart of Fes.

The museum's collection is extensive, featuring traditional Moroccan pottery, woodwork, metalwork, carpets, and textiles. The ceramics room was a particular highlight, showcasing the beautiful pottery made by the city's artisans. I learned that Fes is famous for its blue color in ceramics, known as Fez blue, which is obtained from cobalt. Astrid would have loved the colorful displays! I made a mental note to buy her a small ceramic piece as a souvenir.

To truly understand a place, you must walk its streets, listen to its stories, and immerse yourself in its culture.

Another fascinating exhibit was the collection of astrolabes, ancient instruments used to locate and predict the positions of the sun, moon, planets, and stars. It's incredible to think about the knowledge and skill required to create and use these tools. The museum also boasts a peaceful Andalusian-style garden, filled with orange trees and fragrant flowers. It was the perfect place to relax and take in the beauty of the palace.

Leaving the museum, we ventured into the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes. Established in 1438, it’s the oldest Jewish quarter in Morocco. The Mellah offered a stark contrast to the bustling Medina. The houses were lower, the streets were cleaner, and the walls were painted in cheerful, candy-colored hues. It was a welcome change of pace, offering a sense of tranquility and calm. The history of the Mellah is both fascinating and poignant. It was created to provide refuge for Jews fleeing persecution in Europe and Andalusia. Although they were never fully accepted by Moroccans, they were protected by the sultan and maintained their own laws within the walls of the Mellah. Today, the Jewish population in Fes has dwindled, but the Mellah remains a testament to their presence and contribution to the city's cultural heritage.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, where culture, history, and craftsmanship converge in a vibrant Moroccan atmosphere.

Wandering through the streets, we came across the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem dating back to the 17th century. The synagogue is located in the Mellah district within Fes el-Jdid. It was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a rich merchant from Ait Ishaq. The synagogue is entered through a simple doorway, leading to a short flight of stairs that open into the high, rectangular space of the synagogue. The construction is masonry coated with plaster. The wooden ceiling is beamed and painted. The room is lit by small windows high in the walls. The walls are wainscotted with blue figured Moroccan tiles. The large Torah Ark, a cupboard filling the width of an entire wall, is made of carved wood. The wall above is decorated with intricately carved plaster work. Opposite the Torah Ark is a raised alcove, separated from the main prayer space by a wooden screen elaborately carved with a series of arches. It was intended as a seating area for the congregations more distinguished members. The wooden bimah is topped by a wrought iron canopy of Islamic-style arches and floral forms, culminating in a crown.


Discover the Aben Danan Synagogue, a historic gem in Fes that showcases the rich Jewish heritage and serene beauty of Moroccan architecture.

The Ibn Danan Synagogue (Aben Danan Synagogue) is a Jewish synagogue in Fes, Morocco, dating from the 17th century. It was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a a rich merchant from the town of Aït Ishaq in Khénifra when 1600 jewish families moved to fez. The synagogue was once only one of several inside the walls of Fes,. It is entered through a simple doorway. The door leads to a short flight of stairs that lead into the high, rectangular space of the synagogue. The construction is masonry coated with plaster. The wooden ceiling is beamed and painted. The room is lit by small windows high in the walls. The walls are wainscotted with blue figured Moroccan tiles. The large Torah Ark, a cupboard filling the width of an entire wall, is made of carved wood. The wall above is decorated with intricately carved plaster work. Opposite the Torah Ark is a raised alcove, separated from the main prayer space by a wooden screen elaborately carved with a series of arches. It was intended as a seating area for the congregations more distinguished members. The bimah is accessed from this space, constructed as a small platform cantilevered out form the raised area. The wooden bimah is topped by a wrought iron canopy of Islamic-style arches and floral forms, culminating in a crown. A very early restoration is known to have taken place in the 1870s. More recently, the Jewish community of Fez has also struggled for its preservation, and successfully nominated the building to the 1996 World Monuments Watch of the World Monuments Fund. According to the Fund, the plaster was peeling, the roofs were collapsing, the waterlogged beams were rotting, and windows were broken and missing. The organization helped restore the synagogue with funding from American Express and in collaboration with Morocco's Ministry of Culture and the Judeo-Moroccan Cultural Heritage Foundation. The synagogue reopened in 1999.

Stepping inside felt like stepping back in time. The synagogue's architecture was simple yet elegant, with blue-figured Moroccan tiles adorning the walls and a beautifully carved wooden Torah Ark. The light filtering through the small windows created a serene and contemplative atmosphere. It was a humbling experience to stand in a place of worship that has served the Jewish community for centuries. It reminded me of visiting old stave churches in Norway, each one holding echoes of generations past.

For lunch, we stopped at Chez Hakim, a restaurant recommended by our Riad. It was conveniently located near one of the main gates, yet surprisingly quiet and pleasant. The staff was friendly and welcoming, and the menu offered a variety of Moroccan dishes. I ordered a tagine with chicken and olives, while my friends tried the couscous and grilled meats. The food was delicious and satisfying, providing us with the energy we needed for the rest of our day. I always appreciate finding those little gems that are both authentic and affordable.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Chez Hakim in Fès - a family-friendly restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine.

As the sun began to set, we decided to unwind at the Zen Garden, a bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. Sipping on mint tea, we reflected on the day's adventures, sharing stories and laughter. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and cultural immersion. Traveling with friends always adds a special dimension to any trip. Sharing experiences, exchanging perspectives, and creating memories together makes the journey even more meaningful.


Discover tranquility and natural beauty at the Zen Garden in Fès, a serene escape amidst the vibrant culture of Morocco.

Tomorrow, we're planning to visit the Marinid Tombs for a panoramic view of the city, followed by a cooking class at the Fez Cooking School at Palais Amani. I'm particularly excited about the cooking class, as I've always wanted to learn how to make authentic Moroccan dishes. I can't wait to share the recipes with Maximilian and Astrid when I get back home!

Fes continues to surprise and delight me with its rich history, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality. Each day brings new discoveries and deeper connections to this fascinating city. I’m so grateful for the opportunity to explore it with my friends, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Before heading back to our riad, we enjoyed a delightful dinner at La Maison Bleue. The atmosphere was magical, with live traditional music adding to the ambiance. The food was exquisite, and the service was impeccable. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.


Experience authentic Moroccan hospitality at La Maison Bleue – where tradition meets luxury in the heart of Fes.

Until tomorrow,
Ida