Exploring Ancient Herculaneum: A Journey Through Time

Naples Through the Ages

Today, Lena and I embarked on a journey through the heart of Naples, exploring its rich artistic and historical tapestry. From the serene heights of a mountaintop monastery to the depths of ancient Roman artifacts, Naples revealed itself in layers, each more captivating than the last. We savored local flavors and soaked in the vibrant atmosphere, making memories that will undoubtedly last a lifetime.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Longobardi Mario. Fuelled up with pastries and strong Italian coffee, we set off to explore the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. Perched atop Vomero Hill, the views alone were worth the trip. The city unfolded beneath us, a panorama of terracotta rooftops, the azure bay, and the imposing silhouette of Vesuvius in the distance. The climb up wasn't easy, especially with the summer sun beating down, but the vista from the top was simply breathtaking. I managed to capture a few decent shots with my camera, though no photograph could truly capture the feeling of standing there, with the wind in our hair and the whole of Naples at our feet. Lena, ever the artist, was particularly captivated by the way the light played across the landscape, muttering about color palettes and composition.


Explore the breathtaking Certosa e Museo di San Martino, a historic monastery turned museum, showcasing Neapolitan art and stunning city views.

The Certosa itself is a marvel, a former monastery transformed into a museum. The architecture is a stunning blend of Baroque and Neapolitan styles, with intricate details at every turn. We wandered through the cloisters, admiring the peaceful courtyards and the meticulously maintained gardens. Inside, the museum houses an impressive collection of Neapolitan art and artifacts, including an extensive display of presepi, the region's famous nativity scenes. Some of these were incredibly elaborate, with tiny figures enacting entire scenes from everyday life. I was particularly struck by the attention to detail, the way each miniature character was dressed and posed with such care. Lena, of course, was fascinated by the craftsmanship, pointing out the subtle differences in style and technique. We spent a good few hours exploring the Certosa, losing ourselves in its beauty and history.

The beauty of Naples lies not just in its monuments, but in the vibrant life that pulses through its streets.

After the tranquility of San Martino, we plunged into the bustling heart of Naples with a visit to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. This museum is a treasure trove of ancient Roman artifacts, many of which were unearthed from Pompeii and Herculaneum. As someone fascinated by history, I was eager to see these relics of the past up close. The collection is vast and varied, ranging from intricate mosaics and lifelike sculptures to everyday objects that offer a glimpse into the lives of ordinary Romans. The Farnese Collection was particularly impressive, showcasing the wealth and artistry of the Roman elite. Lena was drawn to the mosaics, marveling at the skill and precision required to create such intricate designs. We spent hours wandering through the museum, marveling at the artistry and craftsmanship of the ancient world. It was amazing to see the artifacts that I had read so much about actually in person. It really helped to bring the history to life.


Uncover the wonders of ancient civilizations at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, where history comes alive through fascinating exhibits and artifacts.

One of the highlights was the Secret Cabinet, a collection of erotic art and artifacts that were once hidden away from public view. It was a fascinating, if somewhat titillating, glimpse into the more private aspects of Roman life. Lena and I found ourselves giggling at some of the more explicit depictions, marveling at the frankness and openness of Roman attitudes towards sexuality. It was a reminder that even in the ancient world, people were still people, with all the same desires and foibles as us.

By the time we emerged from the museum, we were both feeling a bit overwhelmed by the sheer volume of art and history we had absorbed. We decided to take a break and refuel with lunch at Terrazza Due Golfi. The restaurant offered stunning views of the Bay of Naples, providing the perfect backdrop for a relaxing meal. We shared a pizza margherita, a Neapolitan specialty, and sipped on refreshing glasses of local wine. The food was simple but delicious, and the view was simply unbeatable. It was the perfect way to recharge our batteries before continuing our exploration of Naples.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine with breathtaking views at Terrazza Due Golfi in Ercolano.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to indulge in a little Neapolitan tradition with a visit to Herculaneum Bar Dei Papiri. The bar was lively and crowded, filled with locals and tourists alike. We ordered a couple of Aperol spritzes and settled in to watch the world go by. The atmosphere was infectious, and we soon found ourselves chatting with a friendly group of locals who were eager to share their stories and recommendations. They told us about their favorite hidden gems in the city and gave us tips on where to find the best gelato. It was a reminder that the best travel experiences often come from unexpected encounters with the people who call a place home.


Experience the authentic Italian bar culture at Herculaneum Bar Dei Papiri, a cozy spot in Ercolano offering delightful drinks and a warm atmosphere.

For dinner, we chose Ristorante Douce Atmosphere, drawn in by its charming ambiance and reputation for excellent seafood. The restaurant lived up to its name, with a warm and inviting atmosphere that made us feel right at home. We started with a selection of local antipasti, savoring the flavors of fresh mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, and marinated olives. For our main courses, Lena ordered the grilled octopus, while I opted for the seafood risotto. Both dishes were cooked to perfection, bursting with fresh, vibrant flavors. We savored every bite, accompanied by a bottle of crisp white wine. It was a fitting end to a day filled with culinary delights.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Ristorante Douce Atmosphere in Ercolano – where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As we walked back to our hotel, hand in hand, we reflected on the day's adventures. Naples had captivated us with its beauty, its history, and its vibrant energy. We had explored ancient ruins, admired masterpieces of art, and savored the flavors of local cuisine. But more than that, we had connected with the people of Naples, sharing stories and laughter and creating memories that we would cherish forever. It was a day that had deepened our appreciation for this remarkable city and left us eager to discover even more of its hidden treasures. Tomorrow, we plan to return to Herculaneum itself, focusing on the Casa di Aristide and Casa di Galba. I'm particularly excited to see these well-preserved homes and get an even closer look at daily life in ancient Rome.

I did forget my umbrella and travel adapter, so I will need to remember to pick those up before we head out tomorrow. I'm glad Lena and I were able to experience so much today, and I'm looking forward to what tomorrow brings.

It's moments like these that remind me why I started this blog in the first place – to share the joy of discovery and the thrill of connecting with new cultures. Back in Berlin, life can sometimes feel a bit monotonous, but travel has a way of reawakening my sense of wonder and reminding me that there's a whole world out there waiting to be explored. And with Lena by my side, every journey becomes an unforgettable adventure.