Exploring Ancient Herculaneum: A Journey Through Time
Day 7: Whispers of the Past: Unearthing Stories in Herculaneum
Explore the ancient houses of Casa di Aristide and Casa di Galba in Herculaneum, where history comes alive amidst stunning ruins.
Echoes of Ancient Lives
Today, Lena and I continued our exploration of Herculaneum, a city frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. It’s remarkable how much detail has been preserved here, offering a vivid glimpse into the daily lives of the Romans who once called this place home. As a software developer, I often think about how we preserve and access data today, and it strikes me how differently, yet effectively, the Romans preserved their world for us to discover centuries later.
Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Caffetteria Salvo D'acquisto. I had read some mixed reviews, with some people saying the prices were too high. However, we found it to be a convenient spot to grab a quick bite. Lena and I both enjoyed a cappuccino and a pastry. I must admit, the coffee was excellent, a perfect start to our day of exploration. While some reviewers found the service unfriendly, we found it to be adequate, especially given how busy the place was with tourists heading to Vesuvius and the Herculaneum ruins. It was a practical choice, and we were soon energized and ready to delve deeper into the ancient city.
Experience authentic Italian flavors at Caffetteria Salvo D'acquisto in Ercolano - your cozy retreat for coffee and snacks.
Our first stop was the Casa di Aristide. The name itself is a bit of a misnomer; the house was mistakenly named after a statue of the Athenian politician Aristides, though it was later discovered to belong to the Attic orator Aeschines. It's fascinating how these historical misinterpretations can stick around, adding another layer to the story of the site. The house is one of the first ones excavated in Herculaneum, and it shows its age. Much of it remains unexplored, and what has been uncovered was unfortunately damaged during the Bourbon explorations. Still, standing in the atrium, I could imagine the prominent public figure who once lived here, showcasing his respect for the teachers of the past. The layout of the house, with its entrance from Cardo III Street leading directly into the small atrium, gave me a sense of the intimacy of Roman domestic life. Although the wall between the Casa di Aristide and the adjacent Casa di Argo was destroyed long ago, it allowed us to easily move between the two villas, blending their stories together.
Explore Casa di Aristide, an archaeological treasure in Herculaneum, revealing the beauty and history of ancient Roman life amidst stunning frescoes and architecture.
History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.
Next, we ventured into the Casa di Galba. This house, named after a silver portrait bust of the emperor Servius Sulpicius Galba found nearby, offered a different perspective on Roman life. Excavated in the late 19th century, the Casa di Galba is only partially uncovered, with much of it still lying beneath modern Ercolano. It's amazing to think that everyday life continues above these ancient ruins. According to historical records, the house originally occupied a larger area, with the main entrance likely on Cardo II. The current entrance on Cardo III would have been a rear entrance near the peristyle. Wandering through the rooms, I could picture the original layout, with the entrance corridor, kitchen, latrine, and various cubicula (bedrooms). The peristyle, with its cruciform pool lined with marble and a central fountain, was particularly striking. The columns, covered in red stucco, and the low walls closing off the inter-columnations created a serene and elegant space. It was easy to imagine the family relaxing here, enjoying the cool water and the tranquil surroundings.
Explore the treasures of ancient Rome at Casa di Galba, a captivating museum in Ercolano showcasing the rich history and culture of a bygone era.
For lunch, we decided to try Ristorante Le Nuvole. The restaurant is known for its traditional cuisine and excellent ingredients, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. Lena and I shared a Caprese salad and some pasta, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and the beautiful view. I had read that it is located in Villa Signorini, and the setting added to the charm of the meal. With the nice weather, we were able to eat outside, surrounded by greenery and fresh air.
Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Ristorante Le Nuvole in Ercolano—where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning views.
In the afternoon, we took a detour from the ancient ruins to visit Rocagi Vintage Cinema e Teatro. I had read about this place, a vintage clothing shop that also serves as a resource for the film and theater industries. As someone who appreciates both history and creativity, I was intrigued. The shop was a treasure trove of vintage clothes and accessories, each piece with its own story to tell. We met Catello Russo, the owner, who is known as the prince of pezze (prince of rags). He told us about his family history in the vintage clothing business, starting with his father in the post-war era. It was fascinating to hear how Rocagi has become a go-to place for costume designers, with pieces appearing in productions like House of Gucci. Lena, with her keen eye for design, was particularly captivated, and we spent a happy hour browsing the racks and imagining the lives these clothes had lived.
Experience the charm of classic cinema and vibrant performances at Rocagi Vintage Cinema e Teatro in Ercolano, a cultural gem of Italy.
As evening approached, we chose Ristorante Pizzeria Donna Imma for dinner. The restaurant had good reviews, and we were in the mood for some authentic Neapolitan pizza. We were not disappointed. The pizza was delicious, with a perfectly thin crust and fresh toppings. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and the service was friendly and efficient. It was a great way to end our day of exploration, savoring the flavors of Naples while reflecting on the history and beauty we had encountered.
Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Ristorante Pizzeria Donna Imma in Ercolano – home to delicious pizzas and warm hospitality.
Tomorrow, we plan to visit Villa Ruggiero and Porta Ercolano, continuing our journey through this ancient land. We might also check out Viva Lo Re, a local bar, for a relaxing evening drink. Each day here brings new discoveries and a deeper appreciation for the past. It's a privilege to walk in the footsteps of those who came before us, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with Lena and with you, my readers.
As I sit here writing this, I realize how much these ancient stones have to tell us. The whispers of the past are all around, if we only take the time to listen. It’s a reminder that even in our modern, tech-driven world, there’s immense value in connecting with history and understanding the human stories that have shaped our present.
Discover the preserved wonders of Herculaneum and Vesuvius National Park on a 10-day cultural journey with Jan and Lena.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Software Developer
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Country: Germany
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Age: 38
Servus! I'm Jan Kovar, a software developer by day and a passionate travel blogger by night. Originally from Czechia, I now call Berlin home. Together with my wife, Lena, I explore Europe and beyond, seeking out budget-friendly cultural experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Through my blog, I share practical tips, cultural insights, and personal stories to inspire young adults and millennials to travel more sustainably and experience the world in an authentic way. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of Europe, one city, one hike, and one beer garden at a time!
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