Exploring Ancient Herculaneum: A Journey Through Time

Echoes of the Past in Stabiae

Today, Lena and I ventured beyond the well-trodden paths of Herculaneum to explore the ancient city of Stabiae. It's amazing to think that just a few kilometers from the bustling modern life, we could immerse ourselves in the remarkably preserved remains of Roman villas, offering a unique glimpse into the lives of the elite who once resided here. It’s a journey back in time that I'm eager to share.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at PANILANDIA-paninoteca. I had read some mixed reviews, with some people mentioning hygiene concerns, but others praised the sandwiches. We decided to give it a try, and I must say, the sandwiches were indeed quite good and reasonably priced. It was a quick and satisfying start to our day, fueling us up for the explorations ahead. Lena enjoyed a simple vegetarian panini, while I opted for one with some local cured meats. However, I did keep the less positive reviews in mind and kept an eye on the preparation, just in case.


Discover PANILANDIA: where gourmet paninis meet authentic Italian flavors in the heart of Ercolano.
After breakfast, we set off to Scavi di Stabia, eager to see Villa San Marco and Villa Arianna. The morning air was fresh, and the walk was pleasant, giving us a chance to soak in the atmosphere of this historic region. I was particularly excited because Stabiae, unlike Pompeii and Herculaneum, offers a different perspective on Roman life. While those cities were bustling urban centers, Stabiae was a luxurious retreat for the wealthy, dotted with lavish villas offering stunning views of the Bay of Naples. As a software developer, I find it incredible how advanced their architectural and engineering skills were, even by today's standards.


Explore the opulent ruins of Scavi di Stabia - Villa San Marco, an archaeological marvel showcasing ancient Roman life near Naples.
Villa San Marco was our first stop. As one of the largest Roman residential villas in the Vesuvian area, it sprawled impressively across the landscape. Though only partially excavated, the sheer scale of the villa gave us a sense of the opulence that once defined it. Wandering through the remains, I imagined the vibrant frescoes, intricate mosaics, and elegant gardens that adorned this place. It was fascinating to learn that the villa was first excavated in the 18th century and then again in the 1950s, with ongoing efforts to restore and protect it from the ravages of time.

To walk through these villas is to walk through the lives of those who reveled in the beauty and tranquility of the Campanian coast.

Lena, with her keen eye for design, was particularly captivated by the remnants of the villa's artistic details. She imagined the play of light and shadow across the frescoes and the luxuriousness of the materials used. We spent a considerable amount of time just wandering, discussing what life might have been like for the inhabitants of this magnificent villa.

Next, we made our way to Villa Arianna, the oldest of the Stabiae villas. Named after a fresco depicting Dionysus saving Ariadne, this villa offered a glimpse into an even earlier period of Roman history. As we explored the villa, we were struck by the exquisite frescoes that adorned its walls. The delicate figures and vibrant colors seemed to transport us back to the 2nd century BC. It was remarkable to think that these artworks had survived for over two thousand years, buried beneath layers of volcanic ash.


Explore Villa Arianna in Castellammare di Stabia, a historical landmark showcasing Roman artistry amidst stunning Bay of Naples views.
One of the most intriguing aspects of Villa Arianna was the underground tunnel that once connected it to the seashore. I imagined the villa's inhabitants strolling through this tunnel, seeking respite from the summer heat or perhaps engaging in clandestine rendezvous. It added an air of mystery and intrigue to the villa, making it all the more captivating.

After our explorations, we were ready for lunch. We chose Pizzeria Luna Caprese, a local spot known for its Neapolitan pizzas. While I had read that they didn't have extensive vegan options, Lena was able to communicate her needs and order a delicious vegetable pizza without cheese. I, of course, indulged in a classic Margherita. The pizzas were large and tasty, providing the perfect midday fuel. We sat outside, enjoying the warm sun and the lively atmosphere of Ercolano.


Experience authentic Neapolitan pizza at Pizzeria Luna Caprese in Ercolano - where tradition meets flavor in every bite.
In the afternoon, we decided to do a bit of shopping. Lena had been wanting to check out Erco Rètro Vintage Store, a local vintage shop. As someone who appreciates sustainable living, she's always on the lookout for unique and pre-loved items. I'm usually more interested in the technology side of things, but I do enjoy seeing her excitement when she finds a hidden gem. The store was a treasure trove of vintage clothing and accessories, and Lena spent a happy hour browsing through the racks. She ended up finding a beautiful silk scarf and a retro handbag, both of which she was thrilled with.


Explore unparalleled vintage fashion at Erco Rètro Vintage Store in Ercolano, where every piece tells a story of style and history.
For dinner, we ventured a bit further afield to Agriturismo Antico Ricupo. This family-run establishment promised an authentic Campanian culinary experience. The agriturismo was nestled in the countryside, surrounded by lush greenery and offering stunning views of Mount Vesuvius. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we were greeted by the friendly owner who made us feel right at home.


Discover authentic Italian cuisine and cozy accommodations at Agriturismo Antico Ricupo in Ercolano, where tradition meets tranquility.
The meal was a feast of local specialties, prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients. We started with a selection of antipasti, including homemade cheeses, cured meats, and marinated vegetables. For our main courses, Lena opted for a vegetarian pasta dish, while I indulged in a hearty meat stew. Everything was delicious and bursting with flavor. We finished the meal with a traditional Neapolitan dessert, a sweet and creamy ricotta cake.

As we sat on the terrace, savoring our meal and watching the sunset over Vesuvius, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. Exploring the ancient villas of Stabiae had been a truly enriching experience, offering a glimpse into the lives of the Romans who once called this place home. It was a reminder of the rich history and culture that permeates this region, and I felt a deep sense of connection to the past.

Tomorrow, we're heading to Naples to visit the Certosa e Museo di San Martino and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the artifacts and frescoes that were removed from Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae, hoping to deepen our understanding of this fascinating civilization. Before that, we will have breakfast at Longobardi Mario. And perhaps we'll unwind at Herculaneum Bar Dei Papiri in the evening, a perfect way to reflect on our adventures.

As I reflect on our day, I'm struck by the remarkable preservation of these ancient sites. It's a testament to the power of nature, which both destroyed and preserved these treasures. And it's a reminder of the importance of preserving our history and culture, so that future generations can learn from the past. I am so glad Lena and I decided to embark on this journey. It’s moments like these that make travel so worthwhile, enriching our lives and broadening our perspectives. It is also a great way to disconnect from my daily routine as a software developer and recharge my batteries.