Exploring the Mystical Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of the Ancient Forest

Today was a blend of adventure and reflection, a day spent both among the towering trees of Yakushima's present and amidst the echoes of its past. It’s fascinating how a single day can offer such contrasting yet complementary experiences. I am always seeking to balance adventure with a deeper understanding of the places I visit, and today Yakushima delivered on both fronts.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. It’s a cozy little cafe overlooking the harbor, and it lived up to its name. The atmosphere was cheerful, and the coffee was just what I needed to kickstart a day of exploration. I opted for a simple set of toast and eggs, a familiar comfort before diving into the unfamiliar wonders of Yakushima. It reminded me of the small cafes Lena and I used to frequent in Berlin.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

Fueled and ready, I headed to Canoppi - Treetop Canopy Walk. The anticipation had been building since I first read about it. The walk is located a short drive towards Hara, and I found it without any issues. As I approached, the air grew noticeably fresher, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient wood. The humidity was still present, a constant companion in Yakushima, but here, amidst the trees, it felt less oppressive.


Explore the stunning beauty of Yakushima from the treetops at Canoppi - Treetop Canopy Walk, an unforgettable adventure in Japan's lush wilderness.

The Canoppi experience is something else. Suspended high above the forest floor, the canopy walk offers a unique perspective on Yakushima's biodiversity. The walkways swayed gently with each step, adding a touch of thrill to the serene setting. It felt like walking among giants, these ancient cedars reaching for the sky, their gnarled branches draped in moss and ferns. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor below. It was a photographer's dream, and I spent a good amount of time trying to capture the essence of this magical place.

To walk among these ancient trees is to feel a connection to something far greater than oneself.

The structure itself is impressive, a testament to sustainable tourism. The 180-meter-long course took me through different levels of the forest, from the lower reaches to the high-rise area, 12 meters above the ground. I could feel the forest three-dimensionally. I learned that Canoppi is part of a village initiative to alleviate intensive tourism in the mountains of Yakushima, contributing to sustainable development goals. Knowing that my visit was supporting such efforts made the experience even more rewarding.

After descending from the heights of Canoppi, I felt a pull towards understanding the human history of this island. I made my way to the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore. The museum is located near the Miyanoura River, and it's a modest building that holds a wealth of information about the island's past. It's not a sprawling, modern museum, but that's part of its charm. It feels intimate, personal, like stepping into a time capsule.


Discover Yakushima's cultural treasures at the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore, where local traditions and history come to life.

Inside, I found exhibits detailing the island's early inhabitants, their traditional ways of life, and the unique cultural practices that have shaped Yakushima. There were displays of old tools, clothing, and household items that painted a vivid picture of daily life in the past. What struck me most were the exhibits about the island's relationship with the forest. For centuries, the people of Yakushima have lived in harmony with nature, relying on the forest for their livelihoods while also respecting its power and fragility. It was a lesson in sustainable living that resonated deeply with me.

The museum also had a section dedicated to the nearby volcanic island of Kuchinoerabu Island. I learned about the island's unique ecosystem and the lives of its inhabitants. There was even a display about the native monkeys and deer of Yakushima, smaller subspecies of their mainland cousins. It was fascinating to see how isolation had shaped the evolution of these animals.

Leaving the museum, I felt a sense of connection to Yakushima that went beyond its natural beauty. I had glimpsed the lives of the people who had called this island home for generations, their struggles, their triumphs, and their deep connection to the land. It was a reminder that history is not just a collection of dates and facts, but a living, breathing story that continues to unfold.

For lunch, I decided to try a place called Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. The name alone was intriguing, and I was curious to see what culinary surprises awaited. The restaurant lived up to its promise. The food was simple yet exquisite, highlighting the fresh, local ingredients of Yakushima. I had a set meal featuring grilled flying fish, a local specialty, and it was unlike anything I had ever tasted. The delicate flavor of the fish was enhanced by the smoky char, and the accompanying vegetables were perfectly seasoned. It was a meal that truly captured the essence of Yakushima.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Each Meal, an izakaya in Yakushima where every dish is a celebration of local culture and culinary artistry.

In the late afternoon, I decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy at Wood Shop Kikori. I had read about this place, and I was eager to see the handcrafted wooden items made from the island's famous cedar wood. The shop is located a few minutes south of Anbo, and it's easy to spot with its rustic wooden facade. Inside, the air was filled with the fragrant scent of cedar, a comforting and familiar aroma.


Explore the artistry of Yakushima at Wood Shop Kikori, a unique woodworking supply store showcasing beautiful handcrafted wooden items and tools.

The owner, a former Yakushima forester, was passionate about his craft. He explained the different types of cedar wood and the techniques he used to create his unique pieces. I was impressed by the quality and artistry of his work. From small trinkets to larger furniture pieces, everything was made with care and attention to detail. I ended up buying a small wooden bowl, a simple yet elegant reminder of my time on Yakushima. It will be a perfect addition to our apartment in Berlin.

As evening approached, my thoughts turned to dinner. I had heard good things about Subarashi Indian Restaurant, a surprising find on a remote island like Yakushima. I know it sounds strange to have Indian food in Japan, but I had read rave reviews about this place and decided to give it a try. It was a great choice. The service was friendly, and the food was delicious and well-priced. I ordered a vegetarian curry, specifying no dairy to make it vegan, and it was flavorful and satisfying. It was a comforting meal that warmed me from the inside out.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

With a full stomach and a contented heart, I made my way back to my guesthouse. The island was quiet, the only sounds the gentle rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of the ocean. I thought about the day's adventures, the heights of the canopy walk, the depths of the museum, and the unexpected flavors of the Indian restaurant. It was a day that had touched all my senses, a day that had deepened my connection to this magical island.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Yakushima Fruit Garden, also known as “Papaya no Sato”, and the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse. I’m looking forward to seeing more of the island's natural beauty and perhaps enjoying a sunset view from the lighthouse. I might even stop by Fisherman's Bar NINA for a drink in the evening. For now, though, it’s time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of exploration.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is cloudy with brief rain, so I’ll be sure to pack my rain gear. It seems Yakushima is determined to keep me prepared for anything!