Exploring the Wonders of Phong Nha-Ke Bang: A Vietnamese Adventure
Day 10: Diving into Darkness: Exploring the Mystical Hang Trạ Ang
Embark on a thrilling journey through Phong Nha's hidden gem, Hang Trạ Ang, and savor local flavors in this immersive Vietnamese adventure.
A Day of Subterranean Wonders
Today was nothing short of spectacular. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of our eco-lodge, Lena and I ventured into the heart of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park to explore one of its lesser-known jewels: Hang Trạ Ang. It was a day filled with thrilling discoveries, delicious food, and a deeper connection with the natural beauty of Vietnam.
Explore the captivating Hang Trạch Ang in Quang Binh, Vietnam - a natural wonder of caves and stunning landscapes for every adventurer's delight.
Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Phong Nha Vegan Restaurant. I must admit, I was a bit skeptical about a fully vegan meal before a day of caving, but I was pleasantly surprised. The restaurant had a cozy, inviting atmosphere, and the food was incredibly flavorful. Lena, ever the enthusiast for plant-based cuisine, was in her element, happily trying everything from the vegan sushi to the banana flower tempura. I particularly enjoyed the grilled enoki mushroom beef wraps; they were so good that I almost forgot they weren't meat. Fuelled up, we were ready for our adventure.
Discover delicious vegan cuisine at Phong Nha Vegan Restaurant - where local flavors meet healthy eating in beautiful Quang Binh Province.
The drive to the trailhead was scenic, passing through vibrant green rice paddies and small villages. The weather was mild, with temperatures hovering around the mid-70s Fahrenheit, making it perfect for hiking. As we approached the park, the landscape transformed into a dramatic karst terrain, with towering limestone cliffs rising majestically from the earth. It was a stark reminder of the geological wonders that lay beneath our feet.
Our destination was Hang Trạ Ang, a cave known for its underground river and stunning rock formations. To get there, we embarked on a trek along a section of the historic Ho Chi Minh Trail. The trail was a bit challenging, with rocky paths and dense jungle foliage, but the sense of history and adventure kept us going. I couldn't help but imagine the soldiers who once traversed these paths during the war, their resilience and determination echoing through the ages.
The darkness held a strange allure, a sense of mystery and the unknown that beckoned us deeper into the earth.
As we descended into the Trạ Ang Valley, the air grew cooler and the sounds of the jungle faded away. We reached the entrance of Hang Trạ Ang, a gaping hole in the earth that seemed to swallow the light. After a safety briefing from our guide, we donned our helmets and headlamps and prepared to enter the darkness.
Swimming through the cave was an exhilarating experience. The water was refreshingly cool, and the beam of our headlamps illuminated the otherworldly formations that adorned the cave walls. Stalactites hung like frozen waterfalls from the ceiling, while stalagmites rose from the ground like ancient monuments. The silence was broken only by the gentle lapping of the water and the occasional drip from the cave roof.
Navigating the cave required some scrambling over rocks and wading through deeper sections of the river. At one point, we had to swim through a completely dark section, relying only on the faint glow of our headlamps to guide us. It was a bit unnerving, but also incredibly thrilling. Lena, ever the adventurous one, was in her element, laughing and splashing as she led the way.
After exploring the cave, we emerged back into the daylight, feeling invigorated and awestruck. The experience had a profound effect on me, reminding me of the hidden wonders that exist beneath the surface of our world. As a software developer, I spend most of my days staring at a computer screen, but moments like these reconnect me with the natural world and inspire a sense of awe and wonder.
By lunchtime, we'd worked up quite an appetite. We headed to Bamboo Chopsticks for lunch. This cozy, family-run restaurant is known for its authentic Vietnamese dishes and commitment to sustainable practices. We ordered a variety of dishes, including the caramel tofu, spring rolls, and eggplant dish. The food was fresh, flavorful, and incredibly satisfying. Lena particularly enjoyed the vegan options, while I savored the local flavors of the Vietnamese cuisine.
Discover authentic Vietnamese flavors at Bamboo Chopsticks in Phong Nha – where every meal tells a story.
After lunch, we stopped by Phong Nha Collection, a local shop that features clothing and handicrafts from the region. Lena, with her keen eye for design, was immediately drawn to the vibrant colors and intricate patterns of the traditional garments. She ended up buying a beautiful hand-embroidered scarf, a perfect souvenir to remind her of our time in Phong Nha. I, on the other hand, found a comfortable linen shirt, ideal for the warm Vietnamese climate.

Explore Phong Nha Collection for a unique blend of local fashion and cultural essence amidst stunning natural beauty.
Our final meal of the day was at Son Doong Restaurant. While some reviews suggested mixed experiences, we decided to give it a try, and I am glad we did. The restaurant was bustling with tourists and locals alike, and the atmosphere was lively and energetic. We ordered a selection of Vietnamese dishes, including fresh spring rolls, savory noodle soups, and stir-fried vegetables. The food was tasty and well-prepared, providing a satisfying end to a day of adventure.
Discover authentic Vietnamese flavors at Son Doong Restaurant in Phong Nha – where every meal is a journey into local culinary delights.
As the day drew to a close, we reflected on our experiences. Exploring Hang Trạ Ang was undoubtedly the highlight, but the entire day was filled with memorable moments. From the delicious vegan breakfast to the authentic Vietnamese lunch, from the scenic drive through the countryside to the unique shopping experience, every aspect of the day contributed to a deeper appreciation of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore HaVa Valley - Thung Lũng Ngọc Bich, a place I've heard offers stunning views and a chance to connect with nature on a different level. Lena is particularly excited about this, as she's been wanting to capture some landscape photographs. We'll start our day with breakfast at The Villas Restaurant, followed by lunch at PHONG NHA FAMILY RESTAURANT (NHÀ HÀNG GIA ĐÌNH VIỆT NAM). In the evening, we plan to unwind at Cây Bàng Quán - Big Tree Restaurant, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere.
Back at our eco-lodge, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such incredible natural beauty with my wife. As we prepare for another day of exploration, I am reminded of the importance of sustainable living and responsible tourism. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is a treasure, and it is our responsibility to protect it for future generations.
This trip has already given me so much to reflect on, and I am excited to see what tomorrow brings. As I drift off to sleep, I can still feel the cool water of Hang Trạ Ang on my skin and hear the echoes of the jungle in my ears. What a day!
Join us as we explore the stunning caves and lush landscapes of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Vietnam. A perfect blend of adventure and nature.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Software Developer
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Country: Germany
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Age: 38
Servus! I'm Jan Kovar, a software developer by day and a passionate travel blogger by night. Originally from Czechia, I now call Berlin home. Together with my wife, Lena, I explore Europe and beyond, seeking out budget-friendly cultural experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Through my blog, I share practical tips, cultural insights, and personal stories to inspire young adults and millennials to travel more sustainably and experience the world in an authentic way. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of Europe, one city, one hike, and one beer garden at a time!
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