Exploring the Historical Wonders of Kanazawa: A Solo Journey

Kanazawa's Warm Embrace

After a long journey, I finally arrived in Kanazawa, ready to immerse myself in its rich history and stunning landscapes. As an antique restorer, I've always felt a deep connection to places where the past is palpable, where every stone and garden tells a story. Kanazawa, with its preserved Edo-era districts and meticulously maintained gardens, promised to be just that kind of place. Today, I set out to explore some of its most iconic landmarks, eager to uncover the layers of history and artistry that define this charming city.

My first day in Kanazawa was nothing short of enchanting. From the tranquil beauty of Kenroku-en to the historical grandeur of Kanazawa Castle and the refined elegance of Seison-kaku, every moment was a step back in time. I started my day with a hearty breakfast at Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café, a charming spot near Kanazawa Station. Sol, the owner, originally from Seattle, has created a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Sipping my coffee, I admired the vintage décor, a testament to Sol and his wife Yuko's combined interests. It reminded me a bit of my own workshop back in Antwerp, filled with carefully curated pieces of the past. I made a mental note to tell Marie about this place; she would adore the quirky, nostalgic vibe.


Discover the serene beauty of Kenroku-en, one of Japan's top three gardens, featuring breathtaking landscapes and cultural heritage in Kanazawa.

Kenroku-en: A Garden of Six Attributes

With a spring in my step, I headed to Kenroku-en, one of Japan's three great gardens. The garden is a masterpiece of landscape design, embodying the six essential attributes of a perfect garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water, and broad views. As I wandered through the meticulously manicured grounds, I was struck by the harmony of nature and human artistry. The Kasumigaike Pond mirrored the surrounding greenery, creating a serene and almost ethereal ambiance.

The irises were in full bloom, their delicate purple petals adding a splash of color to the verdant landscape. I paused by the Kotoji-tōrō lantern, its unique two-legged design reflected in the pond. I could easily spend hours here, simply soaking in the tranquility and capturing the beauty through my camera lens. I imagined Marie and Thomas would have enjoyed strolling through the garden with me. Perhaps I will bring them here someday. I was also excited to learn that Kenroku-en and Kanazawa Castle Park sometimes offer evening illuminations, creating a magical nighttime experience.

Gardens are not made by singing 'Oh, how beautiful,' and sitting in the shade.

Kanazawa Castle Park: Echoes of Samurai Glory

Just across from Kenroku-en lies Kanazawa Castle Park, a site steeped in history. Once the seat of the powerful Maeda clan, the castle has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. As I walked through the Ishikawa-mon Gate, a National Important Cultural Property, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The gate, rebuilt in 1788 after a fire, stands as a testament to the resilience of Japanese architecture.


Discover the serene beauty of Kanazawa Castle Park, where history and nature unite in a tranquil setting perfect for exploration and relaxation.

The stone walls of the castle are particularly fascinating, showcasing different construction techniques from various periods. Known as the “Stone Wall Museum”, each wall tells a story of the castle's evolution and the changing priorities of its rulers. I spent a good amount of time examining the various walls, comparing the different styles and imagining the hands that had laid each stone. I also explored the Hishi Yagura Turret and the Gojikken Nagaya Storehouse, marveling at the intricate woodwork and the strategic design of these defensive structures.

Seison-kaku: A Mother's Love Embodied

My final stop of the morning was Seison-kaku Villa, located within Kenroku-en Garden. Built in 1863 by Nariyasu Maeda for his mother, Takako, the villa is a stunning example of Edo-period architecture and a testament to a son's love. The exterior of the villa may seem unassuming, but stepping inside is like entering a different world. The interior is adorned with delicate paintings, ornate carvings, and even stained glass imported from Europe. Takako clearly had impeccable taste, and Nariyasu spared no expense in creating a comfortable and beautiful home for her.


Explore Seison-kaku, a historic gem in Kanazawa, where traditional architecture meets serene gardens, embodying Japan's rich cultural heritage.

I was particularly captivated by the purple and ultramarine tea room upstairs, a bold and unexpected design choice that reflects Takako's unique personality. The villa also houses a collection of family heirlooms, dolls, and kimonos, offering a glimpse into the lives of the Maeda clan. As I strolled along the covered deck overlooking the garden, I admired the unobstructed view, made possible by the absence of supporting pillars. It was a thoughtful design, ensuring that Takako could fully appreciate the beauty of her surroundings.

A Culinary Interlude

By lunchtime, I had worked up quite an appetite. I decided to try Iki-iki Tei, a renowned sushi restaurant located in Omicho Market. The restaurant prides itself on using the freshest local ingredients, and I was eager to sample some authentic Kanazawa sushi. I opted for the omakase experience, allowing the chef to surprise me with his unique creations. Each piece of sushi was a work of art, expertly crafted and bursting with flavor. The melt-in-your-mouth tuna, the delicate sea bream, and the perfectly seasoned rice were a testament to the chef's skill and dedication.


Discover authentic sushi at Iki-iki Tei in Kanazawa – where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

As I savored each bite, I couldn't help but think of my son, Thomas, who is a big fan of sushi. I knew he would have loved this place, and I promised myself to bring him here someday. The warm and inviting ambiance of the restaurant made the experience even more enjoyable. It was a perfect culinary interlude in a day filled with historical and aesthetic delights.

An Afternoon of Reflection and Relaxation

After lunch, I spent some time browsing the Museum Shop near the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. The shop offers a variety of unique souvenirs and local crafts, reflecting Kanazawa's rich cultural heritage. I picked up a few small gifts for Marie and Thomas, tokens of my journey that I hoped they would cherish. I was particularly drawn to the Kutani porcelain, a traditional style of pottery known for its vivid colors and intricate designs. The Kaburaki Kutani Porcelain Shop & Museum sounds like it would be right up my alley.


Discover unique gifts and local crafts at the Museum Shop in Kanazawa, where Japan's rich heritage comes to life in every item.

As the afternoon waned, I made my way back to the APA Hotel Kanazawa Nomachi, my home away from home for the next few days. I took a moment to reflect on the day's experiences, feeling grateful for the opportunity to explore this beautiful city. Kanazawa had exceeded all my expectations, offering a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.


Discover comfort and convenience at APA Hotel Kanazawa Nomachi, your ideal base for exploring Kanazawa's rich culture and stunning attractions.

Kaiseki Delights

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Sekitei Kaiseki restaurant, known for its traditional multi-course meals. The restaurant is housed in a beautifully preserved machiya-style building, exuding the elegance and charm of old Kanazawa. As I stepped inside, I was greeted by the serene ambiance and the impeccable service. The kaiseki meal was a culinary journey, each course meticulously prepared and artfully presented. The freshest seasonal ingredients were used, highlighting the flavors of the region.


Experience authentic Japanese kaiseki cuisine at Sekitei in Kanazawa, where each dish is a work of art reflecting seasonal flavors.

From the delicate sashimi to the savory grilled fish and the fragrant rice, every dish was a delight to the senses. The restaurant is built on the former residence of Baron Yokoyama and features a stone garden. I particularly enjoyed the grilled nodoguro, a local specialty known for its rich, fatty flavor. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day, a culinary masterpiece that captured the essence of Kanazawa.

Tomorrow's Adventures

As I prepare for my second day in Kanazawa, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement for what lies ahead. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, hoping to experience some modern art. Then, I'll wander through the Higashi Chaya District, exploring the preserved geisha houses and soaking in the atmosphere of this historic neighborhood. Perhaps I'll even catch a glimpse of a geisha gracefully making her way to an appointment. I'm also intrigued by the Geisha House Shima, which promises a deeper dive into the world of these enigmatic entertainers.

Before heading back to the hotel, I might stop by Kohaku Bar for a nightcap, reflecting on the day's adventures and savoring the last moments of my Kanazawa experience. Kanazawa has already captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. It’s quite different from my usual cycling through the Antwerp port, but I am embracing the change.

I also learned that the Kanazawa Hyakumangoku Festival is held every June. The festival includes a parade and events around Kanazawa Station. I hope to catch some of the festivities in the coming days. Also, there is an early summer illumination at Kenrokuen Garden and Kanazawa Castle Park. I'll have to check it out!

Tonight, I'll rest well, dreaming of gardens, castles, and kaiseki. Kanazawa, you've been a dream come true. I can't wait for tomorrow's adventures!