Exploring the Historical Wonders of Kanazawa: A Solo Journey

A Day of Contrasts and Culture

Today was a day of diving headfirst into the soul of Kanazawa, a city that beautifully marries its rich historical past with a vibrant contemporary present. It's a place where the echoes of geishas harmonize with the bold strokes of modern art, creating an experience that's both grounding and exhilarating. As an antique restorer, I'm naturally drawn to the preservation of history, but I also find immense inspiration in the new and innovative. Kanazawa, it seems, understands this duality perfectly.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Plat Home - Kanazawa Kitchen. The name itself, suggesting a 'platform,' resonated with me, hinting at a place where people meet and depart, carrying new experiences with them. Set in a renovated, century-old Japanese storehouse, the restaurant exuded a cozy, inviting atmosphere. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, which included grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice. The blend of Japanese and Western cuisine was a delightful surprise, and the high-quality ingredients were evident in every bite. It was the perfect start to a day of exploration. Marie would have loved this place, she appreciates when old buildings are repurposed in creative ways.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I made my way to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. The museum's circular design, with its glass walls, felt incredibly open and welcoming. As I wandered through the galleries, I was struck by the diversity and thought-provoking nature of the exhibits.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see. – Edgar Degas

The museum is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a series of collection exhibitions showcasing its most important works. I was particularly drawn to “Collection Exhibition 3,” which features works created since 1980 that propose new values. Yasura Takeshi's glass and glacial meltwater sculpture, cosmos, was mesmerizing, as was Homma Takashi's photography series, Trails. The way these artists captured the essence of the world around us, using both traditional and unconventional mediums, was truly inspiring. I spent a good few hours lost in the world of contemporary art, pondering the messages and emotions each piece conveyed. I even picked up a few postcards for Thomas, who, despite his teenage cynicism, has a secret appreciation for modern art.


Explore modern artistry at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa - a cultural gem of Japan's contemporary art scene.

Leaving the museum, I decided to immerse myself in Kanazawa's historical charm with a visit to the Higashi Chaya District. This district, established in 1820, is the largest of Kanazawa's three well-preserved geisha districts. As I strolled along the cobblestone streets, lined with traditional wooden buildings and lattice-work windows, I felt like I had stepped back in time. Many of these buildings now function as cafes, restaurants, and craft shops, but some are still working geisha teahouses. It’s like walking through a living museum. The district was established when Maeda Narinaga consolidated scattered tea houses to improve public morals and promote cultural development.


Explore the historic Higashi Chaya District in Kanazawa, where traditional tea houses and cultural heritage await every visitor.

My first stop was Geisha House Shima, a former geisha teahouse that now serves as a museum. Built in 1820, Shima offers a glimpse into the world of geisha culture during the feudal samurai period. The building itself is a designated Important Cultural Asset, and its plain wood exterior and bright red walls are a sight to behold. Inside, I explored the rooms where geishas once entertained wealthy merchants, admiring the displays of geisha hair ornaments, musical instruments, and tableware. It was fascinating to learn about the intricate customs and traditions of these highly skilled female entertainers. It's amazing how well-preserved the district is, considering that during the Showa period, many traditional cultures were in danger of disappearing.


Discover the charm and history of Kanazawa at Geisha House Shima, a beautifully preserved heritage site showcasing Japan's geisha culture.

For lunch, I ventured to Kourin Sushi, a small sushi restaurant located near Kanazawa Castle Park. The restaurant was indeed small, with only a few tables and counter seats, but the sushi was incredibly fresh and delicious. I opted for the chef's choice, which included ten pieces of sushi with unique twists, such as squid with ginger and red snapper with radish. The prices were very reasonable, and the friendly staff made the experience even more enjoyable. It's a testament to Kanazawa's culinary scene that even a small, unassuming restaurant can offer such high-quality cuisine.


Experience authentic Japanese sushi at Kourin Sushi in Kanazawa - where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

In the evening, I had dinner at Itaru, a popular izakaya known for its fresh seafood and local sake. The restaurant had a retro vibe, with a lively atmosphere and friendly chefs. I ordered the Japan Sea Sashimi Platter, which featured a variety of seasonal seafood, and the Kamo no Jibuni, a local duck stew. The sashimi was incredibly fresh, and the duck stew was rich and flavorful. I also tried the Nyan-ko Meshi, a specialty dish of rice topped with fish and covered with hot miso broth. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Kanazawa's culinary delights. Itaru has been around since 1988, and it's clearly a local favorite.


Discover the authentic taste of Japan at Itaru Izakaya in Kanazawa – where traditional flavors meet warm hospitality.

After dinner, I decided to check out Kohaku Bar, a cozy bar known for its cocktails and delightful service. The atmosphere was intimate and inviting, and the bartender was skilled at crafting unique and flavorful drinks. I ordered a local sake-based cocktail, which was the perfect nightcap after a long day of sightseeing. It was a great place to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.


Discover the vibrant Kohaku Bar in Kanazawa, where expertly crafted cocktails meet warm ambiance for an unforgettable nightlife experience.

As I walked back to my hotel, the APA Hotel Kanazawa Nomachi, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience Kanazawa's unique blend of tradition and modernity. The city has a way of captivating your senses and leaving you with a sense of wonder and appreciation for its rich cultural heritage. Kanazawa truly is a city where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony. Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence and the Nagamachi District, delving deeper into Kanazawa's samurai history. I might even do some shopping at Kanazawa Hyakubangai. I'm also looking forward to trying Gyokusen-tei for dinner. It is supposed to be amazing. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.


Discover comfort and convenience at APA Hotel Kanazawa Nomachi, your ideal base for exploring Kanazawa's rich culture and stunning attractions.

The Kanazawa Hyakumangoku Festival is happening this week, so there's a lot of excitement in the air. The festival commemorates Lord Maeda Toshiie's entry into Kanazawa Castle in 1583 and features historical reenactments, traditional performances, and spectacular processions. It sounds like a truly immersive cultural experience. I am hoping to catch some of the events over the next few days. I also read about the Kaga Yuzen Lantern Floating on the Asano River. It sounds magical!

I am glad I remembered to pack my camera! I nearly forgot the extra memory card, but thankfully, it was still in my camera bag! I am going to need it for the next few days as the Kanazawa Hyakumangoku Festival continues!