Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Frozen Wonders and Thawing Memories

Today was a day of contrasts, a dance between the chill of the ice cave and the vibrant life springing forth around the Tara River. It was a day that deepened my connection to Durmitor, reminding me of the resilience and beauty of this land.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Katun Eko selo Camp. The rustic charm of the place, with its wooden tables and the smell of freshly baked bread, was the perfect start. I savored the flavors of my Montenegrin breakfast, a simple yet satisfying meal that fueled me for the adventures ahead. The camp was a delightful find, a testament to the sustainable living I so admire. It reminded me of the simple life back in Kolašin, where everything felt a little more connected to the earth.

My first destination was Ledena Pecina, the Ice Cave. The drive there was breathtaking, as always, with the rugged peaks of Durmitor guarding the horizon. The hike to the cave was more challenging than I anticipated. Patches of snow still clung to the ground, making the trail slippery in places. It was a stark reminder that even in May, Durmitor holds onto its winter memories.

Reaching the cave was like stepping into another world. The air inside was frigid, a stark contrast to the mild spring air outside. The ice formations were otherworldly, sculpted by the patient hand of time. Stalactites and stalagmites sparkled in the dim light, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the power and fragility of nature. I felt a sense of awe, much like I did when Klaus and I explored the Eisriesenwelt Ice Cave in Austria. Nature's artistry knows no bounds.


Discover the breathtaking Ledena Pecina Ice Cave in Durmitor National Park, a natural wonder showcasing stunning ice formations and captivating landscapes.

The earth has music for those who listen.

After the Ice Cave, I sought the revitalizing embrace of Tara Springs Park. The contrast between the frozen cave and the burgeoning life around the springs was striking. The park was alive with the sounds of rushing water and birdsong. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. I spent some time simply sitting by the springs, listening to the water gurgle and flow. It was incredibly peaceful, a balm for the soul.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and rich biodiversity of Tara Springs Park, a serene wildlife haven in Montenegro perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.

I took a moment to reflect on my journey so far. Durmitor has a way of stripping away the unnecessary, leaving you with what truly matters: connection to nature, appreciation for simplicity, and a sense of belonging. It’s a feeling I haven’t experienced so intensely since I last visited my family’s ancestral home near Kolašin. I realized that this solo trip was more than just a vacation; it was a pilgrimage back to myself.

Before heading back to Žabljak, I stopped by Pijaca, the local market. It was a vibrant scene, a kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, and smells. Local vendors were selling everything from artisanal cheeses and cured meats to handmade crafts and souvenirs. I picked up a few items: some local cheese for Klaus, a hand-knitted scarf for myself, and a small wooden toy for my imaginary grandchild. The market was a microcosm of Montenegrin culture, a place where tradition and community thrive.


Discover the charm of Pijaca in Žabljak, where shopping meets local culture in a vibrant and welcoming atmosphere.

For lunch, I decided to try Restaurant Durmitor in Žabljak. The restaurant exuded a cozy atmosphere, and the aroma of Montenegrin cuisine filled the air. I ordered kacamak, a traditional dish made of cornmeal, cheese, and potatoes. It was hearty and delicious, a perfect representation of the region’s culinary heritage. The portions were generous, and the service was friendly and attentive.

In the evening, I treated myself to dinner at Hotel SOA. The restaurant had a more elegant atmosphere, with panoramic views of Durmitor National Park. I opted for the truffle pasta, a dish that blended Montenegrin ingredients with Italian flair. It was exquisite, a testament to the region’s ability to embrace both tradition and innovation. The hotel itself seemed lovely, perhaps I will consider staying there next time, if I don't camp out under the stars.


Discover tranquility at Hotel SOA, your gateway to exploring the stunning landscapes of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Mountain View Lodges and venture off-road through Durmitor. I’m eager to discover new perspectives and hidden corners of this majestic park. I also plan to visit Montenegro Pub for a drink in the evening. But for now, I’ll rest and dream of ice caves, springs, and the enduring spirit of Durmitor.

As I reflect on the day, I am reminded of a quote by the Montenegrin poet, Petar II Petrović-Njegoš:

Blessed is he who lives simply, for he shall inherit the earth.

His words resonate deeply with my experiences today. In Durmitor, simplicity is not a lack but an abundance. It is the abundance of natural beauty, of genuine connection, and of a life lived in harmony with the land. I am grateful for this journey, for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots and to rediscover the simple joys of life. I am also grateful I did not forget my camera this time, as I initially feared when I started this trip. I hope Klaus is doing well in Heidelberg and tending to our garden.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of anticipation. Durmitor continues to surprise and inspire me, and I know that tomorrow will bring new adventures and new discoveries. Until then, laku noć (good night) from the heart of Montenegro.