Cultural Exploration in Fes with Friends

Fez-cinating Finds

Today was a sensory explosion in Fes, a city that has completely captivated me with its chaotic beauty and rich history. I'm so glad I decided to come here with my friends; sharing these experiences makes them even more special. From the pungent aroma of the Chouara Tannery to the serene atmosphere of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, Fes has offered us a glimpse into a world far removed from our everyday lives in Berlin.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Le Tarbouche. It was a recommendation I had seen online, and it did not disappoint. The restaurant was cozy, and the food was simple but delicious. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast of msemen (pancakes) with honey and a strong, sweet mint tea. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring the medina.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Le Tarbouche in Fes – where tradition meets culinary delight.

With our appetites sated, we ventured into the heart of the Fes el Bali, the oldest part of the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our first stop was the infamous Chouara Tannery. I had read so much about it, and I was prepared for the worst, smell-wise. As we approached, the air indeed thickened with a strong, earthy odor – a mix of animal hides, dyes, and… well, let’s just say it wasn’t exactly Chanel No. 5. Luckily, our guide handed us sprigs of fresh mint, which helped to mask the more pungent notes. I remember thinking to myself that Hans would have been fascinated by the process, given his interest in how things are made.

The sight that unfolded before us was nothing short of surreal. From a rooftop terrace, we looked down upon a landscape of stone vessels filled with vibrant, bubbling dyes. Men, knee-deep in the vats, were working the hides with a dedication that seemed both ancient and timeless. The colors were incredible – ochre, crimson, indigo, saffron – all derived from natural sources like saffron, poppy, and indigo. It was a scene straight out of a medieval painting, a testament to the enduring traditions of this remarkable city. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and respect for the artisans who carry on this ancient craft.

The chaos of the tannery, the serenity of the madrasa, and the spirituality of the mausoleum – Fes is a city of contrasts that somehow blend together in perfect harmony.

After the tannery, we sought refuge in the Al Attarine Madrasa, a stunning example of Islamic architecture. The contrast between the gritty tannery and the serene madrasa couldn't have been more stark. Built in the 14th century, this former theological college is a masterpiece of intricate tilework, carved stucco, and cedarwood. The central courtyard, with its tranquil fountain and delicate floral motifs, exuded an atmosphere of peace and contemplation. I wandered through the arcaded galleries, admiring the craftsmanship and imagining the students who once studied here, poring over ancient texts and seeking knowledge. It was a welcome respite from the sensory overload of the medina, a place to pause and reflect on the beauty and artistry of Islamic culture.


Explore the enchanting Al Attarine Madrasa, a historical landmark in Fes showcasing intricate Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Leaving the madrasa, we continued our exploration of the medina, navigating the labyrinthine alleyways with a mix of excitement and trepidation. Every corner revealed a new surprise – a spice merchant with mounds of fragrant powders, a metalworker hammering intricate designs, a group of children playing football in a narrow street. The medina is a living, breathing organism, a place where life unfolds in all its chaotic, vibrant glory. I picked up a few small souvenirs – a hand-painted ceramic bowl and a small leather pouch – reminders of our time in this magical city.

For lunch, we stopped at La Kasbah de Fes, a restaurant recommended by our guide. To be honest, the reviews online were a little mixed, but we were hungry and it was conveniently located. The restaurant itself was charming, with traditional Moroccan decor and a lively atmosphere. I ordered a tagine with chicken and olives, and it was delicious – flavorful and satisfying. My friends tried the couscous and pastilla, and they were equally pleased with their choices. It wasn't the most refined dining experience, but it was authentic and enjoyable.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors in the heart of Fes at La Kasbah de Fes - where tradition meets taste.

In the afternoon, we visited the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the founder of Fes and one of the most important figures in Moroccan history. As non-Muslims, we weren’t allowed to enter the mausoleum itself, but we were able to admire its exterior – a magnificent structure with towering wood front doors, a pyramidal green roof, and a minaret that dominates the skyline. The mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage and prayer, and even from the outside, I could feel a sense of reverence and spirituality. It was a reminder of the deep religious faith that permeates Moroccan society.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

As the day drew to a close, we sought refuge from the bustling medina at Mezzanine, a trendy bar with a rooftop terrace. We ordered drinks and tapas and watched the sunset over the city. The call to prayer echoed from the mosques, a hauntingly beautiful sound that seemed to encapsulate the essence of Fes. It was the perfect way to end a day of discovery, a moment to savor the memories and reflect on the experiences we had shared. I made a mental note to tell Sophie all about the beautiful tilework; I know she'd be fascinated. I also wished Hans were here to enjoy the view and the atmosphere.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

Mezzanine was a great choice. It had a lively atmosphere, and the tapas were delicious. It was a nice change of pace from the traditional Moroccan food we had been eating all day. I tried a local Moroccan beer, and it was surprisingly good. We sat on the terrace, enjoying the cool evening air and the panoramic views of the city.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a more upscale dining experience at Dar Roumana. I had read rave reviews about its French-Moroccan fusion cuisine, and I was eager to try it. The riad itself was stunning – a beautifully restored traditional house with a tranquil courtyard and elegant dining room. The menu was creative and sophisticated, and the food was exquisite. I started with a roast pumpkin salad with goat cheese, chilies, and coriander, followed by braised local rabbit in mustard. For dessert, I had a bitter chocolate tart that was simply divine. The service was impeccable, and the atmosphere was romantic and refined. It was the perfect way to celebrate our time in Fes.


Discover authentic Moroccan hospitality at Dar Roumana—your serene oasis nestled within Fez's vibrant Medina.

Dar Roumana truly lived up to its reputation. The ambiance was magical, and the food was a delightful fusion of Moroccan and French flavors. The staff was incredibly attentive, making our dining experience unforgettable. I savored every bite of the meal, knowing that it was a culinary highlight of our trip. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and cultural immersion.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I’m filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I’ve had today. Fes is a city that challenges and inspires, a place that stays with you long after you’ve left. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit Jnan Sbil, Dar Batha Museum, and Place Rcif. I can't wait to see what other treasures this amazing city has in store for us.

One thing I've learned today is that Fes is a city best experienced with an open mind and a willingness to embrace the unexpected. It's a place where ancient traditions meet modern life, where chaos and beauty coexist, and where every corner holds a new surprise. I'm so glad I came here with my friends, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

I also realize I forgot to buy a local SIM card! It would make navigating the city much easier. Oh well, something for tomorrow's to-do list!

I am looking forward to Jnan Sbil Gardens tomorrow. I think it will be a welcome change of pace after the intensity of the Medina.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I’m excited to explore the serene Jnan Sbil gardens, delve into the art at the Dar Batha Museum, and experience the lively atmosphere of Place Rcif. Fes continues to surprise and enchant me, and I can’t wait to uncover more of its hidden gems with my friends.

I am also hoping to find a portable phone charger tomorrow. It's essential for long days of exploring.

As I close out this entry, I'm filled with anticipation for what tomorrow holds. Fes is a city that keeps on giving, and I'm eager to discover more of its secrets. Goodnight from Fes!