Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Adventures on the Edge of Paradise

As my Yakushima adventure draws to a close, I find myself filled with a bittersweet mixture of gratitude and wistfulness. This island, with its ancient forests and vibrant wildlife, has captured a piece of my heart. Today, I set out to soak in every last bit of its magic, knowing that the memories I've made here will stay with me long after I've returned to Helsinki.

My final day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The restaurant had an old-school vibe, reminiscent of traditional soba shops. I purchased a meal ticket at the counter and handed it over to the staff. Sipping on green tea, I watched the small propeller planes land and take off, each one carrying stories of arrivals and departures. It was a comforting scene, knowing that even as my journey here ended, others were just beginning theirs.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to explore the World Heritage Listed Coastal Road with Wildlife. This narrow road winds along the western coast of the island, offering breathtaking views of the rocky coastline and the emerald green forests that meet the sea. As I drove, I kept my eyes peeled for the island's famous inhabitants: the Yakushima deer and the Yakushima macaques. It wasn't long before I spotted a group of macaques lounging by the roadside, seemingly unfazed by the presence of humans. They were grooming each other, their nimble fingers picking through fur with meticulous care. I watched them for a while, marveling at their social interactions and their striking resemblance to humans. Further along the road, I encountered a herd of deer grazing in a meadow. They were smaller than the deer I'm used to seeing in Finland, with a reddish-brown coat and a gentle demeanor. They looked up as I approached, their large, dark eyes filled with curiosity. I kept my distance, not wanting to disturb their peaceful existence. The coastal road itself was an adventure. It was narrow and winding, with sharp turns and steep drop-offs. But the stunning scenery made it all worthwhile. At times, the road narrowed to a single lane, requiring careful maneuvering to avoid oncoming traffic. I even had to back up once to let a bus pass, a testament to my newfound confidence in driving on narrow roads.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Yakushima's World Heritage Coastal Road, a scenic journey through nature's wonders and diverse wildlife.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in grand monuments or bustling cities, but in the quiet corners of the world, where nature reigns supreme.

Next on my itinerary was the Shitoko Gajumaru Banyan Park. This small park is home to a collection of impressive banyan trees, known as gajumaru in Japanese. These trees are truly unique, with their sprawling roots and branches that create a magical, almost otherworldly atmosphere. As I entered the park, I was immediately struck by the sheer size and complexity of the banyan trees. Their roots twisted and turned, creating intricate patterns that seemed to defy gravity. The park was small, and I explored the area within 10 minutes. Sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor. It felt like stepping into an enchanted forest, a place where anything was possible. I paid the small entrance fee and walked through the entrance, and it was as if I'd stepped into a menacing enchanted forest from a fantasy novel. Banyans live and spread by dropping roots down from limbs, which eventually connect with the ground, then thicken into prop roots which support the tree. They also sprout on existing trees, which can end up being choked by the banyans' enmeshing roots, this habit earning banyans the cheery name 'Strangler fig'. These processes were happening all around: there are scores of trees, with twisted tangles of roots gripping the trunks, like Medusa on a bad hair day. Sometimes it's difficult to tell which are the original trees and which are the supporting prop roots, so thick have they become, and you'll find yourself walking through arches as well as underneath trees. I imagined Aino would have loved exploring this park, her imagination running wild with stories of mythical creatures and hidden worlds. Perhaps one day, I'll bring her here to experience its magic firsthand.


Discover the tranquility of Shitoko Gajumaru Banyan Park in Yakushima, where ancient banyan trees and vibrant wildlife create a serene escape in nature.

Lunch was at At Pesca, a charming restaurant known for its tasty and quick tempura meals. I opted for the vegetable tempura bowl, which was both delicious and filling. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, with Hawaiian music playing in the background. It was an unexpected but welcome touch, adding to the laid-back island vibe. I overheard other travelers raving about the tempura box and the momo chicken drizzled with teriyaki sauce. It seems like At Pesca is a popular spot for those seeking a quick and satisfying meal. I enjoyed the vibrant island beach decor.


Experience fast food like never before at At Pesca in Yakushima – where local flavors meet quick service in a delightful setting.

After lunch, I decided to do some last-minute souvenir shopping. I headed to Gramoon, a local shop known for its unique fashion and artisan crafts. I browsed the selection of handcrafted pottery, woodwork, and textiles, searching for the perfect memento to take back to Helsinki. I finally settled on a small wooden carving of a Yakushima deer, its delicate features capturing the essence of the island's wildlife. I also picked up a bottle of Yakushima green tea, hoping to bring a taste of the island's serenity back home with me. There were several souvenir shops selling yakusugi products, potteries, glasswork, seashell craftworks, and foods products. I could have purchased some original handcrafts that are only one in the world. I also saw Yaku-deer leather products.


Discover unique fashion and local artisan crafts at Gramoon, a premier clothing store in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

For my final dinner in Yakushima, I chose Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. This restaurant had been recommended to me by several locals, who praised its innovative cuisine and its commitment to using fresh, local ingredients. As I sat down at my table, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences I'd had on this island. From the ancient cedar forests to the pristine coastline, Yakushima had exceeded all of my expectations. The warm tofu warmed our hearts. The food was great and the staff were very nice and social. The chef was also the owner. I really do feel like I can keep praising this little place for eternity because literally everything was spot on and perfect. We picked out of the menu the following: Drinks - Tankan beer - 10/10, Cedar beer - 10/10, Dark beer - 9.5/10.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Each Meal, an izakaya in Yakushima where every dish is a celebration of local culture and culinary artistry.

As I prepare to leave Yakushima, I know that I'm taking with me more than just souvenirs and photographs. I'm taking with me a renewed appreciation for the power and beauty of nature, a deeper understanding of the importance of conservation, and a collection of memories that will last a lifetime. This solo adventure has been a journey of self-discovery, a chance to reconnect with my roots and to embrace the unknown. And as I look ahead to my next adventure, I know that the lessons I've learned in Yakushima will guide me on my way.

Tomorrow, I will be heading back to Kagoshima to catch my flight to Tokyo, and then onwards to Helsinki. It's time to return to Markus and Aino, to share my stories and to plan our next family adventure. But a part of me will always remain in Yakushima, wandering among the ancient trees and breathing in the fresh, clean air.

Until next time, Yakushima. Thank you for the memories.