Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Naoshima's Artistic Heartbeat

Today was all about immersing myself even deeper into the artistic soul of Naoshima. After four days of wandering through museums and open-air installations, I was ready to experience art in a more intimate and unconventional way. This morning, I set out to explore the Art House Project in Honmura, and this afternoon, I planned to relax at the Naoshima Public Bath, I Love Yu. It promised to be a day of unique discoveries, blending art with everyday life.

The journey started with a hearty breakfast at NaoPAM/ Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda. This place is known for its fresh seafood set meals, and it did not disappoint. I opted for the grilled fish set, which came with a variety of pickled vegetables, miso soup, and rice. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the simple, traditional flavors were the perfect way to kickstart my day. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. After breakfast, I made a quick stop at the Art Island Center. This place is more than just a shop; it's an art and research center, a gallery, and a bookshop all rolled into one. I picked up a few postcards and a small sketchbook, feeling inspired by the creativity that permeates every corner of this island.

With my sketchbook in hand, I headed towards Honmura, where the Art House Project is located. The Art House Project is a collection of abandoned houses, temples, and shrines that have been transformed into art installations by various artists. It's a fascinating concept, breathing new life into old spaces and creating a dialogue between art and the community.

My first stop was Haisha, which means dentist in Japanese. This former dental clinic and residence has been transformed by artist Shinro Ohtake into a captivating exhibit. The exterior is a chaotic collage of rusted tin sheets, wooden panels, and repurposed materials. Inside, the house incorporates an eclectic array of stylistic elements, appearing in some places like a sculpture, in others like a painting, and in still others like a collage or scrapbook.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

It's hard to describe the feeling of walking through Haisha. Each room is a different world, a different story. The installations are thought-provoking and often surreal, challenging your perceptions and inviting you to reflect on the past and present. One of the most striking features is a replica of the Statue of Liberty, which can be viewed from different floors of the house. It's a bizarre and wonderful sight, a symbol of freedom and hope juxtaposed against the backdrop of a traditional Japanese house.

After Haisha, I wandered through the other Art House Project sites, each with its own unique charm and artistic vision. The beauty of this project is that it encourages you to explore the Honmura district, to wander through the streets and alleys and discover hidden gems. It's a way of experiencing art in the context of everyday life, blurring the lines between the gallery and the community.

For lunch, I decided to try Okonomiyaki Umikko. This family-run restaurant is known for its delicious okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake. I ordered the Umikko Special, which was loaded with vegetables, meat, and seafood. It was absolutely delicious, and the friendly owners made me feel like I was eating in their own kitchen.

After lunch, it was time for my afternoon adventure: a visit to Naoshima Public Bath, I Love Yu. Designed by the same artist who created Haisha, Shinro Ohtake, this bathhouse is a unique combination of contemporary art installation and public bath. The name is a play on words, as yu means hot water in Japanese.

From the outside, I Love Yu is a riot of color and texture. The walls are adorned with mosaic tiles, a giant elephant statue, and a prominent YU sign. It's whimsical and quirky, a visual feast that immediately puts a smile on your face. Inside, the bathhouse is just like a traditional Japanese sento, with separate bathing areas for men and women. You purchase your ticket from a vending machine, put your shoes in a locker, and then disrobe in the changing room.

The bathing area itself is a work of art. The walls and floors are covered in colorful and intricate designs, and there's even an elephant statue that divides the men's and women's sides. Soaking in the hot water while surrounded by all this art is an experience like no other. It's relaxing, stimulating, and just plain fun.

The bathhouse also serves as a meeting place for locals and tourists. It's a place where you can strike up a conversation with someone you've never met, share a laugh, and experience a sense of community. As Jennifer, a translator who moved from the US to Berlin with her husband Maximilian, I always appreciate these moments of connection, these opportunities to bridge cultures and share experiences.

After my bath, I spent some time browsing the gift shop, picking up a few souvenirs to remind me of this unique experience. As the sun began to set, I made my way to Nagomi for dinner. This restaurant is located within the Naoshima welfare center, creating a welcoming atmosphere where locals and tourists can enjoy a meal together. I opted for a set meal featuring local specialties, savoring the fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I had experienced in such a short time. From the thought-provoking installations of the Art House Project to the quirky and relaxing atmosphere of I Love Yu, Naoshima continues to surprise and delight me. It's a place where art is not just something to be observed, but something to be lived and experienced.

Tomorrow, I am planning to visit Cultural Melting Bath: Project for Naoshima and Miyanoura Gallery 6. I am also planning to have breakfast at Yayoda, lunch at Gumbo Hut Shioya, and dinner at EAT LOCAL Naoshima Shokudo. I might also check out Honmura Lounge & Archive. I can't wait to see what other hidden gems this island has in store.

Naoshima is more than just an island; it's an experience. It's a place that challenges you to see the world in a new way, to appreciate the beauty in the unexpected, and to embrace the power of art to transform lives. As I head back to My Lodge Naoshima, I feel grateful for the opportunity to explore this unique corner of the world. The power adapter and sunscreen I forgot to pack from Berlin are now a distant memory, replaced by the vibrant colors and creative energy of Naoshima.

I'm already looking forward to sharing more of my adventures with you tomorrow. Stay tuned!