Artistic Exploration on Naoshima Island

Day 3: Echoes of Art and Time

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and surprising discoveries here on Naoshima. It's fascinating how this small island manages to hold so much thought-provoking art within its serene landscape. Hans and I set out early, eager to delve deeper into the island's unique blend of contemporary art and traditional Japanese life.

Our first stop was the Lee Ufan Museum. Nestled in a valley, the museum itself is a work of art, designed by Tadao Ando. The minimalist architecture, all concrete and clean lines, creates a space for quiet reflection. The art, by Korean contemporary artist Lee Ufan, consists of large installations made of stone, concrete, and iron. It's the kind of art that makes you pause and consider the relationship between nature and the man-made. The way the sunlight filtered through the open spaces, highlighting the textures of the materials, was simply beautiful.


Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Leaving the museum, we headed towards the Honmura district to experience the Art House Project. This project takes abandoned houses, temples, and even a former dentist's office, and transforms them into art installations. It’s such a clever way to breathe new life into these old spaces, weaving in the history and memories of the buildings.

One of the most striking was Haisha, the former dentist's office. Artist Shinro Ohtake converted the entire building into a work of art, incorporating an eclectic mix of stylistic elements. There's even a replica of the Statue of Liberty inside ! It’s chaotic and thought-provoking, a true reflection of Ohtake’s style. Wandering through the rooms, I felt like I was piecing together fragments of the past, each room telling a different story. Hans was particularly fascinated by the details, pointing out how Ohtake managed to blend sculpture, painting, and collage seamlessly.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

Walking from one art house to another also gave us a glimpse into the daily life of the Honmura district. We passed locals tending their gardens, children playing in the streets, and the aroma of home-cooked meals wafting from the houses. It’s a reminder that art isn’t separate from life here; it’s woven into the very fabric of the community.

Our last artistic stop of the day was the Miyanoura Gallery 6. This gallery is housed in a renovated pachinko parlor, a former amusement arcade. Architect Taira Nishizawa transformed the space into a place where visitors and locals can come together. The current exhibition is part of an ongoing project by artist Motoyuki Shitamichi called Setouchi Archive, showcasing rotating exhibits that document aspects of the region’s history. I found it particularly interesting to learn about the island’s past through the various photographs and documents on display.


Discover contemporary art in a serene setting at Miyanoura Gallery 6 on Naoshima, a unique blend of nature and creativity.

For breakfast, we enjoyed a simple and satisfying meal at maimai. I had heard about their Naoshima Burger, a local fish burger, and I was not disappointed. The fresh Hamachi (young yellowtail) with the fluffy bun and homemade tartar sauce was the perfect way to start the day. Hans opted for a more traditional Japanese breakfast set, which he thoroughly enjoyed.


Discover Maimai: A charming hamburger café on Naoshima offering delicious meals amidst stunning art installations.

Lunch was at Issen, located in the Benesse House Museum. This restaurant specializes in kaiseki cuisine, a multi-course dining experience. We chose the beef set and enjoyed it along with the beautiful view. The presentation was exquisite, and each course was a delight to the senses. The large windows allowed us to appreciate the view of the Inland Sea and modern art from any seat.


Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.

As evening approached, we decided to try Chikurin for dinner. This cozy izakaya is a hidden gem, known for its warm ambiance and friendly service. I had read about their fresh sashimi and grilled fish, and it was the perfect way to end the day. Hans tried a local sake, which he said paired perfectly with the meal. The communal setting made it easy to feel at home, and we even struck up a conversation with a local couple.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

After dinner, we wandered over to Naoshima Yokocho for a nightcap. This izakaya also functions as a bar, and we enjoyed a couple of glasses of local craft beer. It was a relaxing way to reflect on the day and soak in the island’s atmosphere.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to visit the Ando Museum and the Red Pumpkin, and I’m particularly excited to see the Seaside Gallery [see tomorrow's itinerary]. It’s amazing how much this small island has to offer, and I can’t wait to see what other artistic treasures we’ll discover. Good night from Naoshima!

It's funny, I almost forgot to pack insect repellent, but thankfully remembered at the last minute. It's definitely come in handy with the summer evenings here. Hans keeps teasing me about nearly forgetting it, but hey, at least I remembered the camera! I would have been lost without it, especially today. I can't wait to get back to Berlin and develop all the film – I think I’ve captured some truly special moments.