A Solo Journey into the Heart of Shirakawa-go

Echoes of the Past, Visions of Today

Today was a journey through time and art, a blend of the historical and the theatrical that left me with a deeper appreciation for Japanese culture. From the meticulously preserved Takayama Jinya to the captivating Noh performance in Kanazawa, every moment was a step further into the heart of this fascinating country. It was a day of sensory delights, from the visual feast of traditional architecture to the culinary artistry of local cuisine.


My day began with a hearty breakfast at Yukinko. This cozy spot, run by two sisters, is conveniently located near the Wada House. Though they were only serving takeout today, I managed to snag some delicious dumplings and Gohei Mochi to enjoy on their terrace. It was the perfect fuel for a day of exploration. I even had a brief chat with one of the sisters, who was incredibly friendly and shared some local insights. Starting the day with such warmth really set the tone for what was to come.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Yukinko in Shirakawa-go amidst stunning landscapes and traditional architecture.

Next on the itinerary was Takayama Jinya, a place that truly transported me back in time. As I approached, the well-preserved exterior immediately caught my eye. Stepping inside required removing my shoes, a custom that always adds a layer of reverence to the experience, as the floor was covered in tatami mats. It felt like entering a living museum, with each room meticulously showcasing the administrative functions and daily life of the Edo period.


Experience the historical essence of Takayama Jinya, a stunning landmark showcasing Japan's rich heritage and traditional architecture.

Takayama Jinya served as the office building for magistrates and officers during the Edo Period. Wandering through the offices, storage rooms, and reception halls, I could almost hear the echoes of official duties being carried out. The building is remarkably well-preserved; in fact, it's the only such office with its main buildings still standing today. The front gate, restored in 1832, leads to rooms decorated with the Seigaiha (blue waves) pattern, adding to the historical ambiance.


One of the highlights was seeing Onkura, the oldest and largest rice-tax storage in Japan. The sheer size of it was impressive, a testament to the importance of rice in the economy of the time. Exploring the premises, including the courtroom and officer's residence, provided a comprehensive view of how governance functioned centuries ago. It was fascinating to see how the officers dispatched from Edo governed Hida from this very office.

Takayama Jinya is the only office from the Edo Period with main buildings remaining today, a national heritage site.

After immersing myself in history, it was time for lunch at Keyaki back in Shirakawa-go. This restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese cuisine and its location within a UNESCO World Heritage site. The setting was indeed breathtaking, with views of the iconic gassho-zukuri farmhouses. I opted for one of their Teishoku meals, which included rice, miso soup, and a selection of side dishes, all beautifully presented.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Keyaki in Shirakawa-go—where tradition meets flavor in a breathtaking setting.

Keyaki specializes in traditional Japanese dishes, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and local specialties. I savored every bite, appreciating the freshness and the care that went into each component of the meal. The casual atmosphere made it easy to relax and enjoy the experience. It was the perfect break before heading to Kanazawa.


With my stomach full and my curiosity piqued, I set off for Kanazawa to experience the Ishikawa Prefectural Noh Theater. The theater itself is a beautiful structure, exuding a sense of calm and tradition. Opened in 1972, it was Japan's first independent public Noh theater. The Noh stage was originally constructed in 1932 and relocated from the Kanazawa Noh Theatre, adding to its historical significance.


Discover the timeless beauty of Noh theater at Ishikawa Prefectural Noh Theater in Kanazawa, where tradition and artistry come alive.

Noh is a classical form of Japanese dance-drama, characterized by its slow, stylized movements, masked performers, and chanted narratives. It’s a unique art form that dates back to the 14th century and was traditionally enjoyed by samurai and warriors. I was fortunate enough to attend a performance of Noh, Kyogen, and Shimai, which are selected highlights from Noh dramas.


The performance was mesmerizing. The deliberate movements of the actors, the haunting music, and the intricate costumes all combined to create an otherworldly experience. While I admit that understanding the chanted Japanese was a challenge, the overall effect was deeply moving. The masks worn by the performers were particularly striking, each one conveying a range of emotions through subtle shifts in angle and light. I learned that the Ishikawa Prefectural Noh Theater is dedicated to preserving and advancing the Noh drama tradition, making it a significant cultural institution.


After the performance, I took some time to explore the theater and learn more about the history and techniques of Noh. I discovered that Noh performances can sometimes last up to six hours, which gave me a new appreciation for the stamina and dedication of the performers. Although I only saw a portion of a full performance, it was enough to leave a lasting impression.


For dinner, I chose Kita no Sho back in Shirakawa-go, drawn by its reputation for authentic Japanese cuisine and its setting in a traditional gassho-style building. The restaurant also functions as a souvenir shop, allowing visitors to take home a piece of Shirakawa's charm. The building itself is 250 years old, adding to the unique dining experience.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Kita no Sho in Shirakawa—where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

Kita no Sho offers a variety of dishes made with local ingredients. I decided to try their recommended Miso Steak Set Meal, which featured Hida beef and homemade Hoba Miso. The combination was exquisite, the savory miso perfectly complementing the tender beef. The restaurant's location next to the Shogawa River added to the tranquil atmosphere.


Before heading back to my accommodation, I stopped by Ichihi, a charming souvenir shop in Shirakawa-go. It was the perfect place to pick up a few mementos of my trip. I found some beautiful local crafts and delicacies, each one a reminder of the rich heritage of this region. It’s these little treasures that help me relive my travel experiences long after I’ve returned home.


Explore Ichihi, a charming souvenir store in Shirakawa-go, offering unique local crafts and delicacies that capture Japan's rich heritage.

As I reflect on the day, I’m struck by the seamless blend of history, art, and cuisine that defines this part of Japan. From the well-preserved Edo-period architecture to the captivating Noh performance and the exquisite local dishes, every moment was a testament to the country's rich cultural heritage. It’s experiences like these that make traveling so rewarding, allowing me to connect with different cultures and broaden my understanding of the world. Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Nature Forest and the Hida no Sato Open Air Museum, eager to discover more of what this region has to offer. I might even treat myself to a drink at Koshiyama bar in the evening!


This solo journey continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. Perhaps I'll even find that umbrella I forgot to pack!