A Solo Journey into the Heart of Shirakawa-go

Whispers of the Past, Kicks of the Future

Today, I dove deeper into Kanazawa, seeking out experiences that blended the city's rich history with a touch of the unexpected. It's amazing how much a single day can hold when you're open to exploring beyond the obvious tourist spots. From geisha districts to ninja weaponry, Kanazawa continues to surprise and delight.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Gassho. The restaurant had a rustic charm, and I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set. It was the perfect fuel for a day of exploration.

First on the agenda was the Nishi Chaya District. Compared to the more bustling Higashi Chaya District, Nishi Chaya is smaller and offers a more intimate glimpse into the world of geishas. As I strolled along the main street, the traditional wooden teahouses exuded an atmosphere of bygone eras. I could almost hear the echoes of laughter and music from the days when geiko (the local name for geisha) entertained wealthy patrons.


Discover the enchanting Nishi Chaya District in Kanazawa, where history and traditional Japanese culture come to life in picturesque surroundings.

Many of the buildings now house sweet shops and cafes , but some still operate as exclusive geiko parlors. I popped into a confectionery shop and sampled some delicate wagashi sweets, each a tiny work of art. The intricate designs and subtle flavors were a testament to the skill and artistry of the confectioners. I also visited the Kanazawa Nishi Chaya Museum, a building reproducing a chaya house, where you can see the guest room of the chaya house.

Sometimes, the most enchanting discoveries are found not in grand monuments, but in the quiet corners where history whispers and tradition thrives.

My next stop was a complete change of pace: the Ninja Weapon Museum. Tucked away in the Nishi Chaya District, this museum offers a fascinating look at the tools and techniques of the ninja. As someone who enjoys history, I was intrigued by the ingenuity and resourcefulness of these covert warriors.


Explore the fascinating world of ninjas at the Ninja Weapon Museum in Kanazawa, where history comes alive through artifacts and interactive experiences.

The museum displays approximately 160 artifacts, including shuriken (throwing stars), sickles, and samurai armor. I even had the chance to try my hand at throwing shuriken, which was much harder than it looks! It gave me a newfound appreciation for the skill and precision of the ninja. The Ninja Weapon Museum is run and administered by Tonboya Co., Ltd.

After immersing myself in the world of ninja, it was time for lunch. I headed to Tenshukaku , a restaurant that not only offers delicious food but also boasts a panoramic view of the village. The restaurant offers Hida's famous Hoba miso (bean paste), homemade Ishiwari-dofu (tofu), and rustic wild vegetable dishes. While enjoying my meal, I gazed out at the landscape, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such a unique and beautiful place.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Tenshukaku in Shirakawa—where culinary tradition meets stunning mountain views.

In the evening, I ventured out to find a local spot for a drink. Hakuraku caught my eye. The bar had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the bartender was friendly and knowledgeable. I tried a local craft beer, which was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.


Experience the charm of Hakuraku Cafe in Shirakawa-go, featuring traditional sweets and breathtaking views in a serene setting.

For dinner, I chose Zensuke , a restaurant known for its tempura. The tempura was light and crispy, and the dipping sauce was flavorful and savory. It was a satisfying end to a day filled with culinary delights. There is also Inakaya Zensuke, an Izakaya (Tavern). There is also Shirakawago Restaurant Irori.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Zensuke in Shirakawa-go—home to exquisite kushiyaki amidst breathtaking heritage scenery.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the diversity of experiences that Kanazawa offers. It's a city where ancient traditions coexist with modern innovations, where quiet teahouses stand alongside ninja museums, and where culinary delights await around every corner. I was able to try a local craft beer at Hakuraku bar and meet some local people. It was a great experience.

Tomorrow marks the final day of my solo journey. I plan to visit Gyokusenin Maru Garden and Kanazawa Katani, soaking in the last moments of this incredible adventure. I'm also hoping to pick up some souvenirs at Shirakawago Purin no Ie (Pudding House) before heading back to Tokyo.

This solo trip has been a fantastic opportunity for self-reflection and exploration. While I miss Olivia and our life back in Toronto, I'm grateful for the chance to immerse myself in a new culture and discover hidden gems like those I found in Kanazawa today. I am looking forward to sharing all of my stories with her when I return.

I am also reflecting on how travel has changed since I moved from Évora, Portugal, to Toronto. Travel has become more than just seeing new places; it's about connecting with different cultures and finding pieces of myself in unexpected corners of the world. I am looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings!

Additional Restaurants

Zeniya

Zeniya offers Japanese cuisine, influenced by the local Kanazawa cuisine known as Kaga Ryori. But there is no menu. The chef goes to the markets daily and creates a menu around the seasonal ingredients that inspire him. Courses are brought together through discussions with staff and an understanding of guests' preferences and experiences, and even their feelings on the day, to adapt and create the perfect menu for each person and each moment. Infused throughout with touches and tastes of the season, dinner follows the pattern of a traditional kaiseki course meal, including about ten dishes. It is difficult to choose between the lovely traditional setting of a private room and the lively conversation at the counter. In the hinoki counter dining area, creamy green square tiles decorate the wall, amid cupboards and doors in different timber tones.

Shirakawago Restaurant Irori

Additionally, the grilled tofu skewer topped with miso is absolutely delicious. Took the Hida beef set. The amount of the beef is not much but it was tasty. It really felt like authentic food. Service was awesome, they can all speak good English and are very friendly. Queues can look challenging but it was pretty fast (+- 30 minutes for 10 queue numbers). The price was not cheap (¥1.950) but it was understandable in such a tourist destination.


Experience the serene beauty of Shirakawamura at Shirakawago Onyado Yuinosho, a perfect blend of comfort, local charm, and modern amenities.