Solo Adventure in Historic Coimbra

Echoes of History in Montemor-o-Velho, Pena, and Piódão

Today was a day of venturing into Portugal's historical heartland. I set out to explore the ancient Castle of Montemor-o-Velho and the unique schist villages of Pena and Piódão. Each location whispered stories of Portugal's rich past, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who shaped this beautiful country. It was a day of exploration, discovery, and reflection, connecting me to the soul of Portugal.


Explore the historical and architectural wonder of the Castle of Montemor-o-Velho, a highlight of Portugal's rich cultural heritage.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurante Império. Fuelled up, I was ready to embrace the day's adventures. The morning air was crisp, a typical late-winter day in Portugal, promising clear skies perfect for exploring.

First on the itinerary was the Castle of Montemor-o-Velho. As I approached the town, the castle loomed majestically on the horizon, a sentinel guarding the Mondego River valley. The history of this place is palpable. Built in the 9th century and later rebuilt by Sesnando Davides, the ‘Lord of the Castles,’ it has witnessed centuries of battles, triumphs, and transformations. It is said that the castle was the setting for a tragic medieval love story, adding a layer of romance to its already imposing presence.

Wandering through the castle grounds, I imagined knights and royalty walking the same paths. The panoramic views from the ramparts were breathtaking, stretching across the fertile plains to the distant Serra da Estrela. The sheer scale of the castle was impressive; it’s the oldest and largest I've toured so far. I spent a good couple of hours exploring every nook and cranny, soaking in the atmosphere. The castle has seen many additions over the years, including expansions by the Knights Templar, which explains its vast outer walls.

Leaving Montemor-o-Velho, I set my sights on the Aldeias do Xisto, specifically Pena and Piódão. The drive was an adventure in itself, winding through narrow, scenic roads that offered stunning views of the Portuguese countryside. The landscape transformed as I climbed higher into the Serra da Lousã, with rolling hills giving way to rugged mountains.

Arriving in Pena, I was immediately struck by the village's unique charm. The houses, constructed entirely of schist stone, blended seamlessly into the landscape. It felt like stepping back in time. The village is a testament to human ingenuity and resilience, with its architecture perfectly adapted to the harsh mountain environment. There is a certain serenity in Pena, a sense of peace that comes from being surrounded by nature and history.


Explore the serene village of Pena in Góis, a hidden gem rich in natural beauty and traditional Portuguese culture.

I wandered through the narrow streets, admiring the craftsmanship of the buildings and the resourcefulness of the villagers. The schist gives the village a uniform, almost monochromatic appearance, which is only broken by the occasional splash of color from a painted door or a blooming flower. I learned that Pena, along with other Aldeias do Xisto, is part of a network dedicated to preserving the region's culture and combating rural desertification. It’s heartening to see such efforts to maintain these unique communities.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Restaurante Napolitano, where I savored local delicacies. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service added to the experience, making it a perfect interlude before continuing my journey.

Next on the agenda was Piódão, another schist village known for its remote location and distinctive architecture. The drive to Piódão was even more challenging than the one to Pena, with winding roads that tested my driving skills. But the effort was well worth it. As I approached Piódão, the village appeared almost magically, clinging to the steep slopes of the Serra do Açor. The houses, built of dark schist and topped with slate roofs, created a dramatic contrast against the surrounding landscape.


Explore the Historical Village of Piódão, where stunning slate-roofed houses meet breathtaking landscapes and rich Portuguese culture.

Piódão is often called the 'Nativity Village' because of its resemblance to a traditional Christmas scene. The village is illuminated at night, creating a warm and inviting glow that can be seen from miles away. I explored the village on foot, marveling at the narrow, winding streets and the ingenious way the houses were built into the hillside. The village church, with its striking white walls, provided a stark contrast to the dark schist of the surrounding buildings.

The beauty of these historical sites lies not just in their stones and structures, but in the stories they tell and the connections they forge with the past.

As the sun began to set, casting long shadows over the mountains, I made my way back towards Coimbra. The day's journey had been a profound experience, connecting me to the heart and soul of Portugal. The Castle of Montemor-o-Velho stood as a testament to the country's rich history, while the schist villages of Pena and Piódão showcased the ingenuity and resilience of its people. These places are not just tourist attractions; they are living monuments to Portugal's past.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I decided to stop by The Murphy's Irish Pub for a relaxing evening. It was nice to unwind with a drink and reflect on the day's adventures. The pub had a lively atmosphere, and it was a great place to mingle with locals and fellow travelers. Apparently, The Murphy's Irish Pub often has live music, but not tonight. I stayed for a couple of hours, enjoying the convivial atmosphere before calling it a night.


Discover the vibrant atmosphere of The Murphy's Irish Pub in Coimbra, where live music and delicious food create unforgettable experiences.

My thoughts drifted to tomorrow's itinerary. I am planning to visit the UC Exploratório - Centro de Ciência Viva da Universidade de Coimbra, the Parque da Cidade Manuel Braga, and the Mirante Emygdio da Silva. I'm also hoping to do some shopping at Boutique dos Relógios. It promises to be another day filled with exploration and discovery.

As I prepare for my final day in Coimbra, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I've had. This solo trip has been a journey of self-discovery, connecting me to the history, culture, and people of Portugal. I am eager to share my stories with Fatima and the kids, hoping to inspire them to embark on their own adventures.

The flavors of the day also lingered in my memory – the hearty breakfast at Restaurante Império, the satisfying lunch at Restaurante Napolitano, and the comforting atmosphere of The Murphy's Irish Pub. Each meal was a unique culinary experience, adding another layer to my exploration of Coimbra.

As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a deep connection to this land, a sense of belonging that transcended borders and cultures. Portugal had welcomed me with open arms, and I was grateful for every moment of this incredible journey. The echoes of history, the beauty of the landscape, and the warmth of the people would stay with me long after I returned to Edmonton.

I thought of a Mozambican proverb my grandmother used to say: "Ukhamba lu gcwala kancane kancane," meaning 'A pot fills drop by drop.' This trip, like each drop, has gradually filled my soul with new experiences, insights, and memories. I am returning home enriched, with a deeper understanding of myself and the world around me. And as I look forward to my final day in Coimbra, I know that the best is yet to come.