A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a beautiful blend of spiritual reflection and simple pleasures. The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise me with its hidden gems and the warmth of the local people. It’s days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo journey in the first place – to connect with something deeper, both within myself and the world around me.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery. This charming spot in Totsukawa, nestled in the Yoshino District of Nara Prefecture, is known for its traditional Japanese dishes made with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. I savored every bite, appreciating the simple elegance of the setting and the stunning views of the surrounding mountains. It was the perfect start to a day filled with exploration and contemplation. As I enjoyed my meal, I couldn't help but think of Fatima and the kids back in Edmonton. I imagined Nelson's excitement over the sights and sounds of Japan, and Sheila's fascination with the intricate details of the traditional decor. I made a mental note to find some small souvenirs for them, something to bring a piece of Kumano Kodo back home.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

My first stop was the Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine. This serene Shinto shrine is a captivating place located in Wakayama, attracting both spiritual seekers and nature lovers. As I approached, I was immediately struck by the tranquil atmosphere. The shrine is enveloped by lush greenery, and the sounds of nature filled the air, creating an ideal environment for reflection. I spent some time wandering through the grounds, admiring the traditional Japanese design elements, the intricate wooden carvings, and the beautifully maintained gardens. I even participated in a local ritual, making a small offering and writing a wish on an ema, a wooden plaque. The experience was incredibly peaceful, and I felt a sense of connection to the ancient traditions of this sacred place. It’s amazing to think that pilgrims have been visiting this site for centuries, each seeking their own form of spiritual rejuvenation. I could feel the weight of history and the collective energy of all those who had come before me.


Explore the serene Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine, a Shinto gem in Wakayama, starting point for the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage with rich cultural heritage.

From there, I ventured on to see the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree. This magnificent tree is over 400 years old, with a height of 22 meters and a girth of 5.5 meters. Standing beneath its massive canopy, I felt dwarfed by its presence. The tree's trunk splits into numerous smaller branches, giving it the nickname thousand branch Ginkgo tree. The sheer size and age of the tree were awe-inspiring, a testament to the enduring power of nature. It was a beautiful sight, a perfect example of the natural wonders that the Kumano Kodo has to offer. I took several photos, trying to capture the tree’s grandeur, but no image could truly do it justice. It’s something you have to experience in person.


Explore the ancient beauty of the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Ginkgo Tree, a symbol of resilience and tranquility in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. Housed in a beautifully renovated house designated as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property, this eatery offers a glimpse into traditional Japan. I enjoyed a simple yet delicious meal of local specialties, including Mehari-zushi, a unique delicacy from Kumano City. The Omotenashi-Kan is more than just a restaurant; it's a place to connect with the local culture and history. I learned about the art of making Mehari-zushi, and even tried my hand at preparing it myself. It was a fun and engaging experience, and I left with a newfound appreciation for the local culinary traditions. The staff was incredibly welcoming, making me feel like a part of their community. I even picked up a bag of mikan, those sweet citrus fruits that are a specialty of Kumano, to enjoy later.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to unwind at Wine Kumano, a cozy bar that specializes in natural wine, craft beer, and coffee. It was the perfect spot to relax and reflect on the day's adventures. I sampled a local craft beer, savoring the unique flavors and the laid-back atmosphere. The bar was a mix of locals and travelers, and I struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia who were also walking the Kumano Kodo. We shared stories and tips, and I felt a sense of camaraderie that is so common among travelers. It was a reminder that even when traveling solo, you are never truly alone.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

Dinner was at Kumagoro, a restaurant known for its variety of dishes and set meals made with local ingredients. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, and I felt right at home. I tried the local Mehari-zushi and Kumano cha-gayu tea rice porridge, both of which were delicious. Kumagoro is also a great place to find pamphlets about the Nanki area and information about the Kumano Kodo trail. It’s clear that this restaurant is a hub for both locals and tourists, a place where you can enjoy good food and connect with the community.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the stars were out in full force, and the air was cool and crisp. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage trail; it's a journey of discovery, a chance to connect with nature, culture, and oneself.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I'm excited to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, specifically the Chikatsuyu-Oji to Kobiro-Oji section. I've heard it's a particularly beautiful stretch of the trail. I also plan to visit the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. I'll make sure to stop by Guest House & Coffee Keyaki to pick up some supplies for the hike. Before starting my hike, I plan to have breakfast at Sansaro Cafe, and I am looking forward to have lunch at Tororoya and dinner at Akihei.

Tonight, though, I’ll rest, recharge, and dream of the ancient paths and the warm smiles I encountered today. I am also really looking forward to tomorrow's adventures. This journey is truly feeding my soul. I should remember to buy an extra memory card tomorrow, and also try to find a Japanese phrasebook.

Obrigado and até logo!