A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding Peace on the Path

Today was a day of deep reflection and physical challenge as I continued my solo pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo. The ancient trails whispered stories of centuries past, and I felt a profound connection to the pilgrims who walked this path before me. The humidity was high, typical for July, but the beauty of the surroundings made every step worthwhile.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The coffee was excellent, and the homemade treats provided the perfect energy boost for the day ahead. It’s a cozy place, reminiscent of the small cafes Fatima and I enjoy back in Edmonton, though none quite have the same spiritual ambiance. The owner was incredibly welcoming, sharing tips about the trail and local customs. I made sure to express my gratitude in Japanese; small gestures like that always seem to bridge the cultural gap. It reminded me of the importance of slowing down and appreciating the simple things in life, a lesson I often forget amidst the hustle of being an electrician and family man.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
Fueled and ready, I set out on the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section). The trail was a mix of well-maintained paths and more rugged terrain, winding through dense forests and alongside clear streams. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth. I tried to imagine Nelson and Sheila navigating these paths, their small hands reaching for mine as we explored together. Perhaps one day, I can bring them here to experience this tranquility.


Journey through the stunning Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route, where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in Japan's sacred landscape.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

As I walked, I paused to reflect on the journey so far. Ten days in, I’ve already walked so far. I thought about Fatima and the kids, missing them but knowing this solo time was essential for my own spiritual growth. I remembered a conversation with Fatima before I left, where she encouraged me to embrace the solitude and find clarity. Her support means everything.

Around midday, I stopped for lunch at Tororoya in Chikatsuyu. I had heard great things about their set meals, and I wasn’t disappointed. The food was delicious and nourishing, providing the sustenance I needed for the afternoon’s hike. I enjoyed a traditional tororo meal, a local specialty that’s been popular among pilgrims for centuries. Thinking of home, I mused that I should try to recreate this dish for my family, bringing a taste of Kumano Kodo back to Edmonton.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.
After lunch, I continued towards Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. The ascent was challenging, with numerous stone steps leading up to the shrine. The climb was a physical metaphor for the spiritual journey – demanding effort but ultimately rewarding. As I climbed, I focused on my breath, letting go of the day-to-day worries and embracing the present moment. It’s a practice I learned from a book on mindfulness, something I’ve been trying to incorporate into my daily life.


Explore the cultural and natural beauty of Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, a serene Shinto sanctuary in Wakayama, Japan.
Finally, I reached the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. The vermillion lacquered buildings stood majestically against the backdrop of the lush mountains. The atmosphere was serene and reverent. I took my time to explore the grounds, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and paying my respects at the main hall. I even had the chance to experience the Tainai Kuguri, passing through the ancient camphor tree—a symbolic rebirth. It was a humbling experience, reminding me of the interconnectedness of all things.

Before heading back, I stopped at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki, a charming shop I had read about. I picked up a few small souvenirs, a little something for Nelson and Sheila. The shop itself was delightful, offering a variety of local crafts and treats. The owner was friendly and shared stories about the area, adding another layer to my understanding of the Kumano Kodo.


Discover serenity at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki, your perfect retreat along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage in Wakayama.
For dinner, I ventured to Akihei, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. The meal was a delightful culmination of the day’s experiences. The flavors were exquisite, and the presentation was artful. The restaurant had a warm, inviting ambiance, and the staff were attentive and gracious. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day’s journey and the lessons learned.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.
As the day drew to a close, I felt a sense of gratitude and fulfillment. The Kumano Kodo had once again offered me a chance to connect with myself and the world around me. The physical challenges, the moments of reflection, and the encounters with local culture had all contributed to a profound and meaningful experience. I thought about how lucky I am to have the opportunity to do this, to take time for myself and my spiritual growth.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my trek along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route and explore the Yata Pass. I’m looking forward to more breathtaking scenery and moments of quiet contemplation. I'm also hoping to stop by the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a relaxing drink in the evening. As I prepare for another day on the trail, I carry with me the peace and inspiration of today’s journey, ready to embrace whatever challenges and discoveries lie ahead.
Before drifting off to sleep, I made a note to look into the history of Mozambique and its own spiritual traditions. Perhaps there’s a connection I can draw between my heritage and this journey, adding another layer of meaning to my pilgrimage.