A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Shrines and Sea Views

Today was a journey steeped in history and natural beauty, a true testament to the spiritual heart of Japan. From ancient shrines nestled in serene landscapes to dramatic cliffs overlooking the vast Pacific, Shingu offered a tapestry of experiences that resonated deeply. It's days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage – to connect with something larger than myself and to find peace in the journey.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe. The traditional Japanese fare was the perfect fuel for the day ahead. I savored every bite, knowing I would need the energy for the adventures that awaited. The cafe itself had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, a great way to start the day. After breakfast, I set out to explore the day's attractions, eager to delve into the rich history and natural wonders of the region.

First on my itinerary was Asuka Shrine, a place said to be the oldest shrine in the Kumano area. As I approached, the air was thick with a sense of history. The shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands at the foot of Mount Horai, a mountain with a history of worship spanning two millennia. The shrine itself is considered one of the most important sites of the Kumano faith. I took my time wandering the grounds, admiring the traditional Japanese architecture and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. I learned that Asuka Shrine has long enshrined the deities of Kumano Sanzan. The site has deep ties to the Qin Dynasty scholar named Jofuku, who is celebrated locally for introducing new farming and fishing methods. It’s fascinating how different cultures and beliefs intertwine in this sacred space. It was fascinating to learn about the kakebotoke, round hanging tablets adorned with symbolic carvings dating back to the Yayoi and Kofun periods, discovered after a typhoon. These artifacts, now housed in the shrine's museum, are believed to be offerings made to protect crops from river floods. I could almost feel the weight of history as I stood there, contemplating the generations of worshippers who had come before me.


Explore the tranquil beauty and rich history of Asuka Shrine, a sacred Shinto site nestled in the serene landscapes of Wakayama, Japan.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that lead us back to ourselves.

After Asuka Shrine, I made my way to the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. The contrast between the serene shrine and the rugged coastline was striking. As I approached the cliffs, the sound of waves crashing against the rocks filled the air. The dramatic rock formations, sculpted by the erosive forces of wind and waves over millennia, were a sight to behold. I strolled along the well-maintained pathways, pausing at the various viewpoints to take in the panoramic vistas. The cliffs stretch for 1.2 kilometers, offering breathtaking views of the Kumanonada Sea. It's easy to see why this place has been selected as one of the 100 most beautiful tourist sites in Japan. The cliffs are steeped in legends, tales of demons and pirates meeting. At the top of the Onigajo cliffs, I explored the remains of a 16th-century castle, built as a defensive fortress. It's amazing to think of the history contained within these rocks, from ancient volcanic activity to feudal lords defending their territory.


Discover the breathtaking Onigajō Cliff in Kumano, a stunning natural monument offering panoramic coastal views and serene hiking trails amidst rich cultural heritage.

For lunch, I stopped at Fushiogami Teahouse. This charming cafe is located along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, offering a respite for weary travelers. The teahouse specializes in traditional Japanese teas and delectable snacks. I savored a cup of green tea, paired with a small sweet, as I gazed out at the lush greenery. It was a moment of pure tranquility, a chance to recharge both body and spirit. I learned that from the hill near Fushiogami Tea House, pilgrims could catch a glimpse of their final destination, the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine. Though I couldn't see the shrine myself, obscured by the clouds, I felt a sense of connection to those who had walked this path before me. I made sure to visit the Fushiogami Shrine, taking in the breathtaking view and feeling a sense of spiritual connection.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

In the afternoon, I made my way to Nachisan Sightseeing Center. While primarily a souvenir shop, it was a great place to pick up a few mementos of my journey. I found a beautiful handcrafted teacup that I knew Fatima would love. I also indulged in a sweet treat – some local ice cream – which was the perfect way to cool down after a day of exploring in the summer heat. I chatted with the friendly staff, who offered helpful tips about local attractions and hidden gems. I was able to find a few small gifts for Nelson and Sheila, too.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Akihei. This restaurant, founded in 1870, offers a serene, traditional Japanese-style interior. I enjoyed a variety of authentic Japanese dishes, including tempura and sashimi. The food was exquisite, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. The owner's wife, who handles customer service, was incredibly friendly and spoke excellent English, making me feel right at home. I learned that Akihei caters to various dietary preferences, including vegan and vegetarian options, making it a welcoming place for all travelers.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Reflecting on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. Shingu offered a perfect blend of history, nature, and spirituality. As I prepare for tomorrow's adventure, walking the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route and exploring Kumano Kodo Park, I know that the memories of today will stay with me long after I leave Japan. The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, exploring the Kohechi Pilgrimage Route and Kumano Kodo Park. I'm looking forward to more hiking and immersing myself in the natural beauty of the region. I also plan to visit Wine Kumano, a local bar, for a relaxing evening after a long day of walking. I am excited to see what new experiences and insights await me on this sacred path. I think Fatima would enjoy the Wine Kumano.

Until then, *adeus* from Shingu!