Exploring the Cultural and Culinary Delights of Parma, Italy

Day 7: A Day of Art, History, and Culinary Delights in Parma

Discover Parma's artistic treasures at Camera di San Paolo & San Giovanni Evangelista, then savor local flavors at Museo del Culatello.

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Parma's Hidden Gems


Today was a day of diving deep into Parma's cultural heart, exploring its art, history, and of course, its culinary traditions. Elke and I set out with a sense of anticipation, ready to uncover more of what this beautiful city has to offer. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to learn, and to share these experiences with all of you.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante Inkiostro. The Michelin Guide describes the restaurant as offering creative and contemporary cuisine, and Chef Salvatore Morello brings innovative recipes with fine dining style. After breakfast, we made our way to the Camera di San Paolo and Cella di Santa Caterina. The Camera di San Paolo, once part of the Abbess’s apartment in the Benedictine Convent of San Paolo, is adorned with frescoes by Correggio, dating back to 1519. It is a true masterpiece of the Italian High Renaissance.

Discover the artistic heritage of Parma at Camera di San Paolo e Cella di Santa Caterina, a museum rich in history and breathtaking art.
Discover the artistic heritage of Parma at Camera di San Paolo e Cella di Santa Caterina, a museum rich in history and breathtaking art.
The room itself is relatively small, but the artistry within is immense. The umbrella-vaulted ceiling is divided into sixteen segments by late Gothic ribs. Correggio, drawing inspiration from Mantegna, Raphael, and Leonardo da Vinci, created the illusion of a pergola with festoons of fruit held up by ribbons. The effect is truly breathtaking. I was particularly struck by the monochrome mythological figures in the faux-marble lunettes and the depiction of Diana on a chariot over the fireplace. These frescoes are more than just decoration; they represent the Abbess’s fierce battle against civil and religious authorities.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see. - Edgar Degas


After spending a considerable amount of time in the Camera di San Paolo, we ventured to San Giovanni Evangelista, a Mannerist-style Roman Catholic church located just behind the Parma Cathedral. The church is part of a former Benedictine convent and is renowned for its Correggio frescoes. Construction of the abbey and church began in the 10th century, but it was rebuilt between 1498 and 1510 after a fire. The facade, designed by Simone Moschino, was completed in 1607.

Discover the architectural and spiritual beauty of San Giovanni Evangelista, a must-see Catholic church in the heart of Parma, Italy.
Discover the architectural and spiritual beauty of San Giovanni Evangelista, a must-see Catholic church in the heart of Parma, Italy.
The interior of San Giovanni Evangelista is a feast for the eyes. The central nave features a continuous frieze painted by Correggio, who also created the lunette with St. John and the Eagle and the frescoes on the dome. The vision of St. John the Evangelist is particularly striking, with its extraordinary use of perspective. Elke and I spent a good amount of time admiring the frescoes and the overall architecture of the church. The play of light and shadow, the intricate details, and the sheer scale of the place left us in awe.

For lunch, we decided to try Ristorante Sapori del Mondo, which offers an interesting mix of international and Italian cuisine with a focus on Indian recipes. Elke and I shared a few dishes, including a flavorful fish curry and a creative appetizer of shrimp with leeks and purple potato chips with turmeric. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were very friendly and accommodating.

Discover the exquisite fusion of Indian and Italian cuisines at Ristorante Sapori del Mondo in Parma – a must-visit culinary destination.
Discover the exquisite fusion of Indian and Italian cuisines at Ristorante Sapori del Mondo in Parma – a must-visit culinary destination.
In the afternoon, we drove to Zibello to visit the Museo del Culatello. As a restorer of antique furniture, I appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind traditional products, and Culatello is no exception. The Museo del Culatello is located inside the Antica Corte Pallavicina, a historic estate that dates back to the 14th century. The museum is a tribute to Culatello di Zibello, one of the most prized cured meats in Italy.

Explore the fascinating world of culatello at Museo del Culatello in Polesine Zibello, where tradition meets taste in a delightful gastronomic journey.
Explore the fascinating world of culatello at Museo del Culatello in Polesine Zibello, where tradition meets taste in a delightful gastronomic journey.
The museum takes you through the history and production of Culatello, from the selection of the pigs to the aging process. The cellars where the Culatello is aged are particularly fascinating, with their unique microclimate that contributes to the meat’s distinctive flavor. We learned that the fog and humidity from the nearby Po River are essential for the perfect Culatello. After the museum tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Culatello, accompanied by some local wine. The combination of the salty, savory meat and the fruity wine was a perfect ending to our visit.

Before dinner, Elke wanted to do some shopping, so we stopped by Atmosfere Di Mazzera Carlotta. It was a delightful shop with a variety of unique items. Elke found a beautiful scarf and a few small gifts for our son, Maximilian. I always enjoy seeing her happy, and shopping is one of her favorite pastimes.

Discover the charm of Parma through unique gifts and local crafts at Atmosfere Di Mazzera Carlotta, the perfect spot for memorable souvenirs.
Discover the charm of Parma through unique gifts and local crafts at Atmosfere Di Mazzera Carlotta, the perfect spot for memorable souvenirs.
For dinner, we chose Artaj Osteria Parma, a restaurant that offers traditional Parmesan cuisine with a modern twist. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the staff were friendly and attentive. We started with a selection of local cheeses and pickled vegetables, followed by homemade gnocchi with blue cheese and squash. The flavors were rich and satisfying, and it was a perfect way to end our day of culinary exploration.

Experience the rich flavors of Italy at Artaj Osteria in Parma - a bistro where culinary tradition meets modern flair.
Experience the rich flavors of Italy at Artaj Osteria in Parma - a bistro where culinary tradition meets modern flair.
As I reflect on today’s adventures, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and culture of Parma. From the stunning frescoes of Correggio to the savory flavors of Culatello, every moment was a feast for the senses. And to share these experiences with my beloved Elke makes everything even more special.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Museo del Vino and Museo del Pomodoro, as well as the APE Parma Museo. It seems Parma has an endless supply of museums and cultural experiences, and I am eager to uncover more of its hidden treasures. And perhaps Elke and I will find time to visit Choice - Cocktail Bar in the evening [if we aren't too tired].

Until then, arrivederci!

Go to day 6 A Sunday Stroll Through Parma's Palaces and Hidden Gems
Go to day 8 A Taste of Parma: Unearthing Wine, Tomatoes, and Mechanical Marvels
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Exploring the Cultural and Culinary Delights of Parma, Italy

Join Johann and Elke Gruber as they explore the rich history, stunning architecture, and culinary delights of Parma, Italy, in an immersive travel experience.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Johann Gruber
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 51

Greetings, fellow travelers! I'm Johann Gruber, a restorer of antique furniture from Heidelberg, Germany, with a passion for history, culture, and exploration. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, offering detailed insights, historical context, and personal anecdotes. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of the world, one carefully crafted blog post at a time. Together with my wife, Elke, I seek out immersive and enriching experiences, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures.

Interests:
  • History
  • Architecture
  • Photography
  • Classical Music
  • Culinary Arts
More about Johann Gruber

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