Exploring the Enchanting Palaces of Sintra

Day 4: A Royal Daydream: Pena Palace and the Countess's Secret Hideaway

Discover the fairytale beauty of Pena Palace and the romantic allure of the Countess of Edla's Chalet in Sintra, Portugal.

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Whispers of Royalty and Romance in Sintra


Today, Elke and I stepped into a world of vibrant colors and whispered secrets as we explored two of Sintra’s most enchanting treasures. It was a day filled with architectural marvels, romantic history, and the kind of beauty that etches itself into your memory. As a restorer of antique furniture, I'm always drawn to places where history and craftsmanship intertwine, and Sintra has proven to be an endless source of inspiration.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Adega do Saloio. The restaurant was a cozy, traditional Portuguese establishment, the kind where you feel instantly at home. The wooden interior and the aroma of garlic hanging from the rafters created a wonderfully old-fashioned atmosphere. We enjoyed a simple yet satisfying meal, fueling up for the day's adventures ahead. It felt like a place where locals gathered, a comforting thought as we prepared to immerse ourselves in Sintra's more grandiose offerings.

First on our itinerary was the National Palace of Pena. As we approached, the palace revealed itself atop the Sintra Mountains like a fantastical dream. Its vibrant colors—reds, yellows, and blues—stood out against the lush greenery, a testament to the Romanticism movement that King Ferdinand II so passionately embraced.

Discover the National Palace of Pena in Sintra, a majestic castle blending rich history with stunning architecture, set in a breathtaking landscape.
Discover the National Palace of Pena in Sintra, a majestic castle blending rich history with stunning architecture, set in a breathtaking landscape.

The palace is a fusion of architectural styles, blending Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic, and Neo-Renaissance elements. Elke was particularly fascinated by the intricate details and the way each section seemed to tell a different story. I found myself drawn to the palace's history, learning about King Ferdinand II's vision to transform the ruins of an old monastery into this whimsical summer residence.

We wandered through the various rooms, each more opulent than the last. The trompe-l'œil paintings and ornate tile revetments were particularly impressive, showcasing the craftsmanship of the era. The palace kitchen, with its original stoves and copperware, offered a glimpse into the daily life of the royal family. As we explored, I couldn't help but imagine the lavish banquets and lively gatherings that once took place within these walls.

The beauty of Sintra lies not only in its monuments but in the seamless blend of nature and human creation.


The views from the Queen’s Terrace were simply breathtaking. From there, we could see the rolling hills of Sintra, the vast Atlantic Ocean, and the surrounding areas, a panorama that truly captured the essence of Portugal. It was easy to understand why King Ferdinand II chose this location for his summer retreat.

After thoroughly exploring Pena Palace, we made our way to the Chalet of the Countess of Edla. This hidden gem, nestled within Pena Park, offered a more intimate and romantic experience. The chalet was built by King Ferdinand II and his second wife, Elise Hensler, Countess of Edla, as their private refuge.

Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.
Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.

Inspired by alpine chalets, the architecture of the Countess’s residence featured a unique combination of Swiss and Portuguese designs. The exterior boasted charming details such as cork-covered walls and intricate woodwork. As we strolled through the gardens surrounding the chalet, Elke and I were captivated by the harmony between nature and the building’s design. The Countess’s Fern Garden was particularly enchanting, with its exotic botanical species from around the world.

The story of King Ferdinand II and Elise Hensler is one of the great love stories in Portuguese history. Their relationship caused quite a scandal at the time, as Elise was a commoner and had a daughter from a previous relationship. However, their love for each other and their shared passion for the arts and nature ultimately prevailed. It was inspiring to witness the physical manifestation of their romance in the form of this charming chalet.

After our historical explorations, we stopped by A Loja, a shop in Sintra known for its unique and eclectic collection. While Elke browsed the curiosities, I admired the shop's atmosphere, a blend of local charm and intriguing finds.

Discover A Loja in Sintra, a novelty store brimming with unique gifts and local crafts that capture the spirit of Portugal's artistic heritage.
Discover A Loja in Sintra, a novelty store brimming with unique gifts and local crafts that capture the spirit of Portugal's artistic heritage.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves at Tacho Real for lunch. This restaurant came highly recommended, and it did not disappoint. The service was excellent, and the atmosphere was cozy and inviting. We savored traditional Portuguese dishes, reflecting on the day's adventures. I opted for grilled fish, while Elke enjoyed a hearty meat pie.

Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Tacho Real in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.
Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Tacho Real in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.

For dinner, we chose Sabores de Sintra. This restaurant, located in an old building on Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, exuded a familiar and cozy feeling. The inner space was a maze of small lounges, creating an intimate dining experience. We enjoyed a delicious meal, savoring the flavors of Portuguese cuisine.

Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Sabores de Sintra, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a charming setting.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Sabores de Sintra, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a charming setting.

Before heading back to our lovely Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião, we decided to experience Sintra’s nightlife at ZID lounge Bar. The bar had a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring. I enjoyed a glass of local wine, while Elke sipped on a refreshing cocktail.

Experience the vibrant nightlife of Sintra at ZID Lounge Bar, where exquisite cocktails meet a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
Experience the vibrant nightlife of Sintra at ZID Lounge Bar, where exquisite cocktails meet a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Villa Sassetti and the Sintra National Palace. I am particularly looking forward to seeing Villa Sassetti, with its beautiful gardens and stunning views. Elke is excited to explore the Sintra National Palace, known for its rich history and unique architecture. We also plan to try Becco de Sintra for breakfast, Dona Maria for lunch and Taverna do Município for dinner. Perhaps we'll also find some unique souvenirs at MO Sintra and enjoy a nightcap at Cantinho do Lord Byron.

As I reflect on today, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and history of Sintra. The Palácio Nacional da Pena and the Chalet of the Countess of Edla are truly remarkable places, testaments to the power of human creativity and the enduring nature of love. I am eager to see what other treasures Sintra holds, and I look forward to sharing those experiences with you.

For now, Gute Nacht from Sintra. I must rest, tomorrow will be another day filled with the exploration of Sintra.
Go to day 3 Coastal Wonders: Discovering Cabo da Roca and the Secret Praia da Ursa
Go to day 5 A Sunday Stroll Through Sintra's Treasures
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Exploring the Enchanting Palaces of Sintra

Discover the rich history and stunning architecture of Sintra, Portugal, on a 12-day cultural exploration with Johann and Elke Gruber.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Johann Gruber
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 51

Greetings, fellow travelers! I'm Johann Gruber, a restorer of antique furniture from Heidelberg, Germany, with a passion for history, culture, and exploration. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, offering detailed insights, historical context, and personal anecdotes. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of the world, one carefully crafted blog post at a time. Together with my wife, Elke, I seek out immersive and enriching experiences, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures.

Interests:
  • History
  • Architecture
  • Photography
  • Classical Music
  • Culinary Arts
More about Johann Gruber

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  • Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião

    Discover the charm of Sintra at Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião, a 3-star hotel offering comfort, convenience, and captivating local attractions.

  • National Palace of Pena

    Discover the National Palace of Pena in Sintra, a majestic castle blending rich history with stunning architecture, set in a breathtaking landscape.

  • Chalet of the Countess of Edla

    Uncover the romantic charm of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a historical landmark with stunning architecture and beautiful gardens in Sintra, Portugal.

  • Adega do Saloio

    Savor authentic Portuguese flavors at Adega do Saloio in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.

  • Tacho Real

    Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Tacho Real in Sintra - where tradition meets taste in every dish.

  • Sabores de Sintra

    Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Sabores de Sintra, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a charming setting.

  • A Loja

    Discover A Loja in Sintra, a novelty store brimming with unique gifts and local crafts that capture the spirit of Portugal's artistic heritage.

  • ZID lounge Bar

    Experience the vibrant nightlife of Sintra at ZID Lounge Bar, where exquisite cocktails meet a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

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