Exploring the Timeless Charm of Montepulciano

A Day of Discovery in Umbria

Today was a delightful journey through the heart of Umbria, filled with serene landscapes, historical intrigue, and the simple pleasures of Italian life. From the tranquil shores of a vast lake to the depths of a fortress with a tumultuous past, Isabella and I soaked in the diverse experiences that this region has to offer. It’s amazing how much history and beauty can be packed into a single day of exploration.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Fattoria San Martino. As usual, the organic vegetarian spread was a delightful start to the day. I always appreciate how Karin and her team put so much love into their food. The views of the Tuscan countryside and Montepulciano are stunning, making it a perfect spot to fuel up before our adventures.

After breakfast, we set off towards Lago Trasimeno, the fourth-largest lake in Italy. The drive itself was picturesque, with rolling hills and vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. Arriving at the lake, we were immediately struck by its serene beauty. The water was placid, reflecting the clear blue sky, and the surrounding landscape was dotted with charming villages and lush greenery. It was easy to see why this spot is so popular for day trips.


Discover the serene beauty of Lago Trasimeno, a tranquil lake in Umbria, known for its stunning views, outdoor activities, and charming villages.
We hopped on a ferry to Isola Maggiore, one of the lake's three islands and the only one that's inhabited. As we approached the island, the charming medieval village came into view, and it felt like stepping back in time. With a population of just a few dozen people, the island exudes a sense of tranquility that's hard to find elsewhere. Fishing used to be the main occupation here, but now tourism is the primary source of income. I can see why – the island is a hidden gem.


Discover the charm and tranquility of Isola Maggiore, an enchanting island in Lake Trasimeno, rich in history and natural beauty.
We strolled along Via Guglielmi, the main street, admiring the beautiful buildings that date back to the 12th century. The air was filled with the scent of olive trees and the gentle sound of the lake lapping against the shore. We visited the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, located at the highest point of the island, which offered breathtaking panoramic views of the lake. The interior was adorned with valuable Umbrian school frescoes, a testament to the island's rich artistic heritage.

We also explored the Guglielmi Castle, also known as Castello Isabella, though it's not currently open to visitors. It was built on the grounds of a Franciscan monastery in the 1880s. I imagined what it must have been like in its heyday. The island is also known for its lace-making traditions, introduced by Irish nuns in the early 20th century. Isabella, with her love for history and crafts, was particularly fascinated by this aspect.

To truly understand a place, you must delve into its history and embrace its present, allowing the echoes of the past to resonate with the rhythm of today.

After a morning of exploring Isola Maggiore, we took the ferry back to the mainland and drove to Perugia, the capital city of Umbria. Our destination was Rocca Paolina, a fortress with a fascinating and somewhat turbulent history. Built in the mid-16th century by Pope Paul III, the Rocca Paolina was intended to assert papal power over the city after a revolt. The fortress was constructed on the site of the Baglioni family's houses, a move that was not exactly appreciated by the locals.


Experience the rich history and cultural artistry of Rocca Paolina, a majestic fortress offering insight into Perugia's storied past.
What remains today is an underground complex of passages and chambers, a subterranean city beneath the modern streets of Perugia. Walking through these tunnels, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and a touch of melancholy. The history of the place is palpable, and it's hard to imagine what it must have been like during those times of conflict and oppression.

The Rocca Paolina is now used as a space for exhibitions and events, a testament to its ability to adapt and evolve over the centuries. As we explored the underground passages, we came across Il Grande Nero, a kinetic sculpture by Alberto Burri. The sculpture added a contemporary touch to the ancient setting, creating an interesting juxtaposition of old and new. It was a stark reminder that even the most imposing structures can be transformed and repurposed over time.

After our historical explorations, it was time for a late lunch. We found a charming spot called Pizzeria e cucina da Linda in Montepulciano. This family-run restaurant is known for its simple, authentic Tuscan cuisine and friendly atmosphere. Linda and her husband welcomed us like we were part of their family, and we immediately felt at home.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Pizzeria e Cucina da Linda in Montepulciano - where every bite tells a story!
We ordered a pizza and some local dishes, and everything was delicious. The ingredients were fresh and flavorful, and the portions were generous. It was the perfect way to refuel after a long day of sightseeing. As we savored our meal, we chatted with Linda about her restaurant and her love for cooking. Her passion was evident, and it was clear that she takes great pride in her work.

Before heading back to Montepulciano, we made a quick stop at Frassineti, a local shop known for its inlaid wood art. I've always admired the intricate craftsmanship of these pieces, and I wanted to pick up a small souvenir to remind me of our trip. I found a beautiful wooden box with a delicate floral design. It was the perfect memento of our day in Umbria.


Discover unique Tuscan gifts and artisanal treasures at Frassineti in Montepulciano, the heart of Italy's enchanting wine country.
For dinner, we decided to try La Pentolaccia in Montepulciano. This restaurant is known for its great service, friendly staff, and calm atmosphere. We were not disappointed. The food was delicious, and the prices were reasonable. It was the perfect end to a long day.


Discover authentic Italian cuisine and fresh seafood at La Pentolaccia in Montepulciano – a true taste of Tuscany.
As we drove back to our accommodation, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the tranquil shores of Lake Trasimeno to the underground passages of Rocca Paolina, we experienced the diverse beauty and history of Umbria. It was a day filled with simple pleasures, cultural discoveries, and moments of quiet contemplation. I am grateful for the opportunity to explore this region with Isabella and to share our experiences with you.

Tomorrow, we're off to Cortona, Fosso Bianco, and Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. I'm excited to see what new adventures await us!