Solo Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Island Shrines and Iconic Pumpkins

Today was all about diving deeper into Naoshima's unique blend of art and local culture. I wanted to experience the island beyond the main museums, and I'm happy to report, I found some real gems. The kind of places that make you feel like you're truly connecting with the heart of a destination.

My day started with a hearty breakfast at Little Plum, a cozy café near Miyanoura Port. It's the kind of place where you can feel the local vibe right away. I fueled up with a strong coffee and a tasty bite, ready to tackle the day's artistic adventures. Little Plum is a café-bar housed in a renovated marine container, just next to “I ♥ Yu”, an art installation and public bath on the island. They serve a variety of drinks and food to complement. I enjoyed it so much, I think I'll be back! I made sure to grab a coffee to go, as I knew I'd need it for my hike to the Go'o Shrine.


Experience the essence of Naoshima at Little Plum, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a serene setting.

First up: the Art House Project's Go'o Shrine. This was a bit of a trek, but so worth it. The Art House Project is an art project underway in Naoshima's Honmura district. It began in 1998 with Kadoya, and currently comprises seven locations: Kadoya, Minamidera, Kinza, Go'o Shrine, Ishibashi, Gokaisho, and Haisha. I’ve been looking forward to seeing how artists have transformed these traditional spaces. Go'o Shrine, designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, was particularly intriguing. It’s not just about seeing art; it's about experiencing a space that blends the traditional with the contemporary. It's perched on top of a hill overlooking the sea and other tiny islands that are part of Naoshima's little chain. Getting there involved a bit of a climb, but the panoramic views were incredible. The shrine itself is a fascinating blend of old and new, with glass steps leading down into an underground chamber. It felt like stepping into another world, a space where art and spirituality intertwined.


Discover the serene Art House Project: Go'o Shrine in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets traditional Shinto spirituality in a breathtaking setting.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After the Go'o Shrine, I decided to treat myself to lunch at maimai. As the name suggests, is a cafe converted from an outdoor garage. I had heard whispers about their Naoshima Burger, a local fish burger made with fresh Hamachi (young yellowtail) that I had to try. It lived up to the hype! Sitting there, enjoying my burger and soaking in the laid-back atmosphere, I felt a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of Berlin. It was a perfect moment of culinary bliss.


Discover Maimai: A charming hamburger café on Naoshima offering delicious meals amidst stunning art installations.

With renewed energy, I set off to find the iconic Yellow Pumpkin. No trip to Naoshima is complete without seeing Yayoi Kusama's famous sculpture. It's located near the Benesse House Museum, which meant another scenic walk along the coast. The weather was perfect, with a gentle breeze and the sun shining down on the sparkling Seto Inland Sea. As I rounded a bend, there it was – the Yellow Pumpkin, sitting proudly on the end of a pier. It's even more striking in person than in photos. The contrast of the bright yellow against the blue sea and sky is simply breathtaking. I spent a good while just admiring it, taking photos, and soaking in the atmosphere. It's easy to see why this pumpkin has become a symbol of Naoshima and its unique artistic spirit. The sculpture was created for an art exhibition in 1994, and stands 2 meters high and 2.5 meters wide. It was originally only intended for temporary exhibition, but it worked with Naoshima Island's concept of “Symbiosis of Nature, Architecture and Art”, so it was kept on permanently.


Discover the iconic Yellow Pumpkin in Naoshima, a vibrant sculpture by Yayoi Kusama, blending contemporary art with stunning coastal views.

Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I made a stop at Mikazukishoten, a local shop known for its crafts and souvenirs. I wanted to pick up something special to remind me of my time on the island. It's a small, super welcoming coffee shop made of wood, with a wizard barista and a Marzocco espresso machine that serves the best cappuccino and espresso in town! I ended up buying a beautiful handmade scarf with a traditional Japanese design. It's the perfect memento of my Naoshima adventure.


Discover the perfect blend of exquisite coffee and unique souvenirs at Mikazukishoten in Naoshima, a true gem for art and coffee lovers alike.

Dinner tonight was at Issen, the Japanese restaurant in Benesse House Museum. I figured it would be a fitting end to a day filled with art. Issen offers a menu that makes the most of seasonal ingredients from Setouchi. The restaurant serves a kaiseki course menu, featuring seafood from the Inland Sea for dinner, while the lunch menu also offers a range of seasonal meals. The food was exquisite, each dish a work of art in itself. And the setting was simply stunning, with large windows overlooking the sea and the museum's sculptures. It was the perfect way to reflect on everything I had seen and experienced today.


Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.

As I walked back to my lodge, the island was quiet and peaceful. The stars were out, and the air was filled with the sound of the waves. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this magical place. Naoshima has a way of getting under your skin, of awakening your senses and inspiring your soul. It's a place I know I'll never forget.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to visit the Ando Museum and the Red Pumpkin. I'm also hoping to check out Cin.na.mon, a local bar that comes highly recommended. I've heard they make a mean seafood curry! I am already looking forward to it!

I'm also planning on renting a bike tomorrow. It seems like the best way to get around and explore the island at my own pace. I've heard that Little Plum, where I had breakfast this morning, also rents out bikes. Maybe I'll swing by there and see what they have available. I'm excited to discover even more hidden corners of Naoshima and soak in its unique atmosphere. It's moments like these that remind me why I love to travel.

This trip is turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to slow down, connect with art and nature, and recharge my batteries. I am starting to feel like myself again. The fresh air, the beautiful scenery, and the friendly locals have all worked their magic. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!

The weather in Naoshima has been quite pleasant, with moderately chilly and breezy conditions. The temperature has been ranging from a high of 56°F (13°C) to a low of 41°F (5°C). It's definitely a good idea to pack layers and be prepared for some wind. I'm glad I brought my warm jacket and scarf, as they've been essential for staying comfortable while exploring the island.

It's also worth noting that March 3rd is the date of the Dolls' Festival/Girls' Festival in Japan. While I didn't see any specific celebrations happening on Naoshima, it's interesting to be here during this cultural event. I might try to find a local shop that sells traditional dolls or decorations to learn more about the festival.

I'm feeling incredibly grateful for this solo adventure. It's allowed me to reconnect with myself and appreciate the simple things in life. I'm also excited to share my experiences with you all and hopefully inspire you to visit Naoshima someday. It's a truly special place that deserves to be discovered.

Until tomorrow, keep exploring!