Solo Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Whispers of the Past, Echoes of the Future

Today was a day of deep dives, not into the ocean surrounding Naoshima, but into the very soul of the island itself. It’s incredible how art can transform a place, and Naoshima is a testament to that. It was a day filled with quiet contemplation, punctuated by moments of sheer artistic awe.



My day began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at Café Ippo. Finding it was a little adventure in itself; it's tucked away and resembles a traditional Japanese home. The friendly atmosphere and delicious coffee were the perfect start to a day of exploration. I savored every bite, knowing I needed the energy for the day ahead. It reminded me of the small cafes Lena and I used to frequent in Berlin, each with its own unique charm and character.


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

Fuelled up, I headed to the Art House Project in the Honmura district. This project is an ingenious concept: abandoned houses, temples, and even a shrine, transformed into art installations. It's like stepping into the memories of the island, each house whispering stories of the past. The way these spaces have been repurposed is both respectful and innovative, blending the old with the new seamlessly.



First stop: Minamidera. This was perhaps the most impactful experience of the day. Designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando, Minamidera houses an art piece by James Turrell that plays with your perception of light. I won’t spoil the surprise, but it’s an experience that challenges your senses and leaves you questioning reality. The structure itself stands where a temple once stood, adding another layer of depth to the experience. It was a truly unique and thought-provoking experience, a testament to the power of art to alter our perceptions. The building was designed to accommodate the works of James Turrell, and the name 'Minamidera' (Southern Temple) seeks to preserve the idea that the temples which once stood here were emotional support for the people. I made sure to reserve my visit in advance, as it's highly recommended due to the limited capacity.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Chikurin, a local *izakaya*. It was a small place, run by one man who did everything from taking orders to cooking food. I opted for some sashimi and grilled fish, both incredibly fresh and flavorful. It was a great opportunity to soak in the local atmosphere and enjoy a taste of authentic Japanese cuisine. It reminded me a bit of the hole-in-the-wall places Lena and I discover in Berlin, the kind that serve up the most amazing food without any pretense.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

After lunch, I ventured to the Lee Ufan Museum. Nestled in a tranquil valley, the museum is dedicated to the works of Korean contemporary artist Lee Ufan. Again designed by Tadao Ando, the museum itself is a work of art, blending seamlessly with the surrounding nature. The installations, made of stone, concrete, and iron, evoke a sense of minimalist beauty and contemplation. It’s a place to slow down, breathe, and connect with your inner self. The museum is semi-subterranean, and the approach path lined with parallel walls is a journey in itself. This is the first museum devoted to the oeuvre of the Japanese-Korean artist Lee Ufan, a central figure in the minimalistic Mono-ha movement circa 1970. I found myself drawn to the way Lee Ufan uses simple materials to create profound statements about space, time, and existence.


Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

As evening approached, I decided to unwind at Bar SARU. This cozy bar had a welcoming atmosphere. I enjoyed a local beer while chatting with some fellow travelers, sharing stories and experiences. It was a perfect way to end a day of artistic exploration and personal reflection. I even met a group of Australians who were just as captivated by the island's charm as I was. The bar had a unique vibe, with reggae rhythms playing in the background, an unexpected but pleasant surprise.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

Naoshima is more than just an island; it’s an experience. It's a place where art, nature, and history converge to create something truly magical. I found myself constantly surprised and inspired by the creativity and ingenuity on display. It's a place that stays with you long after you leave, prompting you to see the world in a new light.



Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Art House Project: Go'o Shrine and the iconic Yellow Pumpkin. I'm also looking forward to trying some local cuisine at Little Plum for breakfast, maimai for lunch, and Issen for dinner. I might even stop by Mikazukishoten, a local shop, to pick up a souvenir or two.



Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, I took a moment to reflect on the day. It struck me how Naoshima, despite its small size, holds such a vast and diverse collection of art. From the immersive installations of the Art House Project to the minimalist sculptures of the Lee Ufan Museum, there's something here for everyone. And it's not just about the art itself, but also the way it interacts with the island's landscape and history.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

The Setouchi Triennale 2025 is coming up, and it sounds like it will add even more to the island's already rich artistic landscape. The Setouchi Triennale, a contemporary art festival held every three years on a dozen islands in the Seto Inland Sea, aims to revitalize the region by bringing contemporary art and tourism onto the islands.



As I walked back to my accommodation, the air was crisp and the stars were beginning to twinkle above. I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for this incredible experience. Naoshima has a way of slowing you down, making you appreciate the simple things in life. It's a place where you can disconnect from the chaos of the world and reconnect with yourself. And that, I think, is the greatest work of art of all.



I'm looking forward to what tomorrow brings, more art, more exploration, and more moments of quiet contemplation. As I drift off to sleep, I can't help but wonder what other hidden gems this island holds. I'm excited to discover them, one brushstroke at a time.