Cultural Immersion in Kyoto: A Journey with My Spouse

A Day of Ancient Echoes

Today, Lena and I embarked on a journey through time, tracing the ancient paths of Kyoto. It was a day filled with the whispers of history and the vibrant pulse of modern life, a blend that only Kyoto can offer. From the serene heights of Kiyomizu-dera, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Kyoto, where culture and nature harmoniously blend, to the bustling lanes of Sannenzaka, every corner held a new discovery.



Our day started with a hearty breakfast at The Cellar Kyoto. It's funny, even in a city renowned for its traditional cuisine, sometimes you just crave a bit of home. The Cellar offered a familiar comfort with a Japanese twist. I opted for a classic eggs benedict, while Lena, ever the adventurous one, tried their matcha-infused pancakes. Fueled up, we set off towards Kiyomizu-dera. The crisp February air nipped at our faces, a refreshing contrast to the warmth of the café. I was glad I had my jacket, though I did feel a pang of regret for forgetting the umbrella – a rookie mistake, even for a seasoned traveler like myself.


The journey to Kiyomizu-dera was an experience in itself. The narrow streets leading up to the temple were lined with shops selling everything from traditional crafts to Hello Kitty merchandise. It was a delightful sensory overload, a testament to Kyoto's ability to seamlessly blend the old and the new. As we ascended, the crowds began to thicken, a mix of locals and tourists, all drawn to the allure of this iconic temple.


Kiyomizu-dera is a sight to behold. Perched on the hillside, it offers panoramic views of Kyoto that are simply breathtaking. The temple itself is a masterpiece of wooden architecture, its massive stage jutting out over the edge, supported by hundreds of pillars. The history of Kiyomizu-dera stretches back over 1250 years, founded in 778, and it stands as a holy place where the deity Kannon's compassion prevails. I was particularly impressed by the fact that the main hall and stage were built without the use of any nails! The temple was originally associated with the Hosso sect, one of the oldest schools within Japanese Buddhism, but formed its own Kita Hosso sect in 1965.

To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of life.

As we stood on the wooden stage, gazing out at the city below, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe. The air was filled with the murmur of voices, the scent of incense, and the distant sound of temple bells. It was a moment of pure tranquility, a reminder of the beauty and wonder that exists in the world. Lena, ever the architect, was fascinated by the structure of the stage, marveling at the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the builders. I snapped a few photos, trying to capture the essence of the moment, knowing full well that no picture could ever truly do it justice.


After exploring the main hall, we ventured down to the Otowa Waterfall, located at the base of the temple. The waterfall is divided into three separate streams, each said to have a different benefit: longevity, success at school, and a fortunate love life. We watched as visitors lined up to drink from the streams, using cups attached to long poles. I opted for the longevity stream, hoping to add a few more years to my life, while Lena chose the love life stream, ever the romantic.


Next on our itinerary was Sannenzaka, a charming stone-paved path leading away from Kiyomizu-dera. This historic slope, developed during the Taisho era, is lined with traditional souvenir shops and teahouses, creating an atmosphere that feels like a journey back in time. As we strolled down the slope, we were surrounded by the sights and sounds of old Kyoto.


I couldn't resist popping into a few of the shops, browsing through the pottery, textiles, and other local crafts. Lena, of course, was in her element, admiring the intricate designs and the attention to detail. We even sampled some of the local street food, including Yatsuhashi, a traditional Kyoto sweet made from rice flour and cinnamon. It was delicious, though perhaps a bit too sweet for my taste.


Sannenzaka is also known for its mysterious legend. According to one popular belief from the Edo period, if you stumble on this slope, you'll die within three years. Apparently, buying a gourd at the base of the slope will protect you from this fate! We made sure to tread carefully, though I couldn't help but chuckle at the superstition.


For lunch, we decided to try Teppan Tavern Tenamonya, a small, family-run restaurant that came highly recommended. Getting a reservation was a bit of a challenge. The place only has 14 seats, and they're quite strict about their booking policy. Luckily, I managed to snag the last reservation of the day.


The restaurant is run by a husband-and-wife team, Hideki and Naoko, who were incredibly welcoming and friendly. Hideki cooked the food right in front of us on a teppan grill, while Naoko took care of the service. It was like being invited into their home for a meal. We opted for the wagyu beef set, which was absolutely divine. The beef was cooked to perfection, melting in our mouths with every bite. We also tried their okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake, which was equally delicious.


After such an exquisite lunch, we needed a little break before our evening plans. We returned to Hotel Sugicho, our cozy and budget-friendly base near key attractions, for a little rest and recharge. I caught up on some news from back home in Berlin, while Lena sketched some of the architectural details she'd noticed throughout the day.


As evening approached, we ventured out again, this time for dinner at THE SODOH HIGASHIYAMA KYOTO. The restaurant is located in a beautifully restored traditional building, once the home of a famous Japanese painter. The atmosphere was elegant and refined, a perfect setting for a special evening.


The restaurant offers a modern Italian menu with a focus on seasonal ingredients. We opted for the tasting menu, which featured a variety of dishes, each more delicious than the last. The service was impeccable, the staff attentive and knowledgeable. It was a truly memorable dining experience. The building itself has an interesting history, built in 1929 by renowned Japanese painter Seihou Takeuchi. It features the elegance of Kyoto and a beautiful garden.


To cap off the evening, we decided to check out Kyoto Star Bar, a highly-regarded cocktail bar known for its creative and expertly crafted drinks. I had read about the kimono-clad bartender and was intrigued. Located down a narrow alley, it felt like discovering a hidden gem. The atmosphere was intimate and stylish, the perfect place for a nightcap.


I ordered their signature Ki No Bi Negroni, made with local gin, while Lena opted for a classic whisky sour. The drinks were expertly mixed, the flavors perfectly balanced. We chatted with the bartender, learning about the history of the bar and the art of cocktail making. It was a delightful end to a perfect day. The bar also offers a unique tea ceremony experience, where the bartender serves a bowl of thin matcha tea.


As we walked back to our hotel, the streets of Kyoto were quiet and peaceful. The only sounds were the gentle rustling of the wind and the distant hum of the city. I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences we had shared today, the memories we had created. Kyoto had once again worked its magic, leaving us spellbound by its beauty and charm.


Tomorrow, we plan to explore Nijo Castle and the Kyoto Imperial Palace. I'm particularly excited to see Nijo Castle, with its stunning architecture and rich history. Lena is looking forward to the Kyoto Imperial Palace, eager to learn more about the imperial family and their role in Japanese history. Before that though, we will be having breakfast at Masayoshi Japanese Dining. It promises to be another day filled with discovery and adventure, and I can't wait to share it with you all.