Exploring the Art Haven of Naoshima

A Day of Discovery in Naoshima

Today was a day of diving deeper into the heart of Naoshima, exploring not just the grand museums, but also the smaller, more intimate spaces that contribute to the island's unique artistic identity. Lena and I set out with a sense of excitement, ready to uncover the hidden gems that make this island so special. It's amazing how much art and culture can be packed into such a small place, and today, we were determined to experience as much of it as possible.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. It's a charming little spot near Minamidera, almost hidden like a local secret. From the outside, it looks like any traditional Japanese home, which makes it all the more delightful when you step inside. We were greeted by a friendly couple who served us some delicious coffee and a simple, yet satisfying breakfast. It felt like a true immersion into the local life of Naoshima, a far cry from the bustling tourist spots. Lena particularly enjoyed the cozy atmosphere, remarking how it reminded her of a small café back in Berlin.


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

Fueled up and ready to go, our first official stop was the Ando Museum. As an admirer of architecture, I was particularly excited about this one. The museum is a fascinating blend of old and new, housed within a renovated traditional Japanese house. From the outside, it maintains the appearance of a 100-year-old wooden structure, but inside, it reveals a series of concrete spaces designed by Tadao Ando himself. The contrast between the traditional exterior and the modern interior is striking, a testament to Ando's genius. It was interesting to see how he preserved the townscape while creating something entirely new and unique.


Discover the Ando Museum in Naoshima, a stunning fusion of contemporary art and architecture by Tadao Ando, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

The museum showcases Ando's work on Naoshima, with models and photographs detailing his various projects on the island. It provided a deeper understanding of his vision and his commitment to integrating architecture with the natural environment. Lena, with her architect's eye, was captivated by the intricate details and the way Ando played with light and space. The museum is a must-visit for anyone interested in architecture or contemporary art.

From the Ando Museum, we made our way to Miyanoura Gallery 6. This gallery is located in the Miyanoura district and is housed in a renovated pachinko parlor. The architect Taira Nishizawa transformed the former amusement arcade, a familiar landmark for the island's residents, into a space where visitors and locals can gather and relax. The gallery focuses on the research, collection, and exhibition of materials related to the landscape, culture, folklore, and history of the Seto Inland Sea area. It's a project by artist Motoyuki Shitamichi, who collaborates with locals and experts to present new perspectives on the island.


Discover the intersection of art and nature at Miyanoura Gallery 6, a serene destination on Naoshima Island showcasing contemporary masterpieces.

The exhibition we saw was part of the Setouchi Archive project, which aims to create a space where visitors can connect with the island's past and explore its history from new angles. It was a fascinating look into the island's identity and the stories of its people. The gallery itself is split into two buildings, one serving as an exhibition and archive room, and the other as a laboratory where residents can participate in various activities. It's a great example of how art can be used to revitalize a community and preserve its cultural heritage.

After immersing ourselves in art and history, it was time for lunch. We headed to Perma_Naoshima, a ramen restaurant known for its authentic flavors and cozy atmosphere. After hearing some locals talking about it, I was curious to try it out. The ramen was indeed delicious, with a rich and savory broth and perfectly cooked noodles. Lena opted for a vegetarian option and was equally impressed. It was the perfect midday meal to recharge our batteries before continuing our exploration.


Experience authentic ramen at Perma_Naoshima, where culinary tradition meets the artistic charm of Naoshima Island.

With renewed energy, we decided to venture off the beaten path and explore Danyama. Danyama is a mountain that rises from the center of Teshima Island [near Naoshima], offering a scenic overlook of the surrounding area. I was curious about Danyama, since I read that the mountain's village spring feeds terraced rice fields that were revived thanks to the Triennale. It was a bit of a trek to get there, but the views were well worth the effort. From the top, we could see the entire island, the Seto Inland Sea, and the neighboring islands. It was a breathtaking panorama that reminded us of the natural beauty that coexists with the art on Naoshima.


Experience breathtaking views and tranquility at Danyama, a must-visit observation deck in Japan's stunning Teshimaieura region.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in the grand museums, but in the quiet corners of everyday life.

As we descended from Danyama, we made a stop at the Art Island Center. This place is more than just a shop; it's a gallery, a bookshop, and an art center all rolled into one. The center focuses on exploring the identity and resilience of the islands in the Setouchi region, using Naoshima's international status to facilitate conversations about globally significant topics. We browsed through the art books and local publications, gaining a deeper appreciation for the island's artistic heritage. Lena picked up a book on Japanese art, while I found a photography book showcasing the beauty of the Seto Inland Sea. It's a great place to find unique souvenirs and learn more about the island's culture.


Discover the serene beauty of Art Island Center in Naoshima, where literature meets art in an inspiring setting that captivates every visitor.

For dinner, we decided to try Okonomiyaki Umikko, a family-run restaurant known for its delicious okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake. The restaurant is located near the bus stop, making it easily accessible. The owners were incredibly friendly and welcoming, making us feel right at home. We ordered the Umikko Special okonomiyaki, which was packed with a variety of ingredients and bursting with flavor. It was a satisfying and comforting meal, a perfect way to end a long day of exploring.


Savor authentic okonomiyaki at Okonomiyaki Umikko on Naoshima Island—where every bite celebrates local flavors and culinary artistry.

As we walked back to our lodge, reflecting on the day's adventures, I felt a sense of contentment. We had seen so much, experienced so much, and learned so much about Naoshima. It's not just an island of art; it's an island of community, culture, and natural beauty. It's a place where art and life intertwine, creating a unique and enriching experience. Lena agreed, adding that it was days like these that made our trip so special, allowing us to connect with the island on a deeper level.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we're planning to explore more of the island's hidden corners, including the Seaside Gallery, Walking Ark, and Honmura Lounge & Archive. We're also hoping to check out Naoshima Yokocho, a local bar, for a taste of the island's nightlife. I'm excited to see what other treasures we can uncover and what new experiences await us. Until then, I bid you goodnight from the enchanting island of Naoshima.

P.S. I almost forgot! I finally remembered to buy a Japanese phrasebook at the Art Island Center. Hopefully, I can start using some basic phrases to better connect with the locals. And Lena reminded me that we still need to find a shop that sells sunglasses. It seems like I can't remember everything, no matter how hard I try!