Exploring the Art Haven of Naoshima

Whispers of the Past, Visions of the Future

Today, Lena and I delved deeper into the soul of Naoshima, exploring the Art House Project in Honmura. It wasn't just about seeing art; it was about feeling the history and the stories embedded in these transformed spaces. Each location offered a unique perspective, a dialogue between the past and the present, and a glimpse into the creative spirit that defines this island.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast. We headed to Issen, eager to try their Japanese breakfast set meal. The restaurant was located inside the Benesse House Shop, so we took a moment to admire the views of the Inland Sea and the modern art on display. The breakfast was delicious and set us up for a day of exploring. Fuelled and ready, we set off to Honmura to visit the Art House Project.

Minamidera: An Encounter with Light and Darkness

Our first stop was Minamidera, a building designed by Tadao Ando, housing a work by James Turrell. Knowing Ando also designed the art museums here filled me with anticipation. This was more than just viewing art; it was an experience in perception. As we stepped inside, the world dissolved into darkness. It took a few minutes for our eyes to adjust, and slowly, a soft, ethereal light began to emerge.

The interplay of light and shadow was mesmerizing, almost spiritual. It felt like being in another dimension, a space where time stood still. The experience was both calming and unsettling, a reminder of how much we rely on sight and how easily our perceptions can be manipulated. I was reminded of a quote from Turrell himself:

Light is not so much something that reveals, as it is itself the revelation.

Afterward, Lena and I discussed how the experience challenged our understanding of space and reality. It was a profound start to our exploration of the Art House Project.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Kadoya: Reflections on Time and Community

Next, we visited Kadoya, the first house transformed as part of the Art House Project. This 200-year-old building was restored with traditional techniques, and inside, we found Tatsuo Miyajima's Sea of Time '98. This installation featured a pool of water with LED lights, each blinking at a different pace, set by the residents of Naoshima. The concept was simple, yet deeply moving. Each light represented a person, a life, a moment in time.

Walking through the space, I felt a connection to the community, to the people who had lived and worked on this island for generations. It was a reminder that art isn't just about individual expression; it's about shared experiences and collective memory. I thought of my own community back in Berlin, and how important it is to preserve and celebrate our history.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

Go'o Shrine: A Stairway to the Heavens

Our final stop in the Art House Project was the Go'o Shrine. Designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, this Shinto shrine dates back to the Edo period and has been restored with a modern twist. The most striking feature was the glass staircase leading from the underground chamber to the heavens. Descending into the chamber, I felt a sense of reverence, a connection to the spiritual traditions of Japan. The glass staircase was both beautiful and symbolic, representing the link between the earthly and the divine.

Emerging from the shrine, I felt a sense of renewal, as if I had been cleansed and refreshed. Lena and I took a moment to appreciate the surrounding landscape, the rolling hills and the sparkling sea. It was a perfect ending to our exploration of the Art House Project.


Discover the serene Art House Project: Go'o Shrine in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets traditional Shinto spirituality in a breathtaking setting.

A Culinary Pause: Lunch at Chikurin

After immersing ourselves in art, we were ready for lunch. We decided to try Chikurin, an Izakaya-style restaurant. We opted for their set menu, which included local seafood and seasonal vegetables. The food was simple, yet delicious, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was a welcome break from the intensity of the art, a chance to relax and recharge before our next adventure.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

Benesse House Shop: A Treasure Trove of Memories

Before heading back to My Lodge Naoshima, we stopped at the Benesse House Shop. Lena, with her keen eye for design, was particularly excited about this part of the day. The shop offered a wide selection of art goods, Kagawa Prefecture sweets, and even hotel amenities. I picked up a few postcards to send to friends and family back home, while Lena found a beautiful ceramic bowl that she couldn't resist. We also bought some sweets produced in Kagawa Prefecture to take back to Berlin with us.

As we browsed the shelves, I was struck by how much Naoshima has to offer. It's not just about the art; it's about the craftsmanship, the local products, and the unique culture of this island. The Benesse House Shop was a perfect place to find a tangible reminder of our experience.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Evening Reflections and Culinary Delights at Yuunagi

As evening approached, we made our way to Yuunagi for dinner. This restaurant, known for its flounder dishes, was the perfect place to end our day of exploration. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I tried the flounder set meal, which was cooked to perfection. Lena opted for another seafood dish, equally impressed with the freshness and flavors.

Over dinner, Lena and I reflected on our day. The Art House Project had been a truly transformative experience, challenging our perceptions and deepening our appreciation for art and culture. We talked about the connections we felt to the community, to the history of the island, and to the creative spirit that permeates every corner of Naoshima.

The meal was a perfect ending to a day filled with art and exploration. As we walked back to our accommodation, the stars were out, and the air was filled with the scent of the sea. I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience this unique island and to share it with Lena.

Looking Ahead

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit the iconic Yellow Pumpkin and Red Pumpkin sculptures, and experience the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I am looking forward to seeing these iconic works of art and experiencing more of what Naoshima has to offer. I hear the Naoshima Yokocho is a great place for dinner, so we plan to check that out too. I'm also curious about BAR Queen's-Q Naoshima.

Naoshima continues to surprise and inspire me. It's a place where art and life intertwine, where the past informs the present, and where the future is filled with endless possibilities. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see. – Edgar Degas