Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

A Day of Discovery on the Kumano Kodo

Today was all about delving deeper into the mysteries and natural wonders surrounding the Kumano Kodo. Lena and I set out with a sense of excitement, ready to explore ancient paths and subterranean realms. It’s incredible how each day here brings a completely new perspective on this pilgrimage, blending physical challenge with profound cultural experiences.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. We fueled up with their delicious bagels and coffee, knowing we had a day of hiking and exploration ahead. I always appreciate a good breakfast, especially before a long day of walking; it reminds me of the simple pleasures back in Berlin, grabbing a coffee and pastry before diving into work. It's funny how travel can make you appreciate the little things even more. Lena, of course, was in her element, already snapping photos of the quaint café and the surrounding scenery. The café itself had a charming, rustic vibe, originally a sake store warehouse. It’s located along the Kumano Kodo in Chikatsuyu, making it a perfect spot for pilgrims.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off towards Tsugizakura-Oji, a significant point along the Nakahechi route. The walk itself was beautiful, winding through forests and offering glimpses of the surrounding mountains. It felt like stepping back in time, imagining the countless pilgrims who have walked this path over centuries. We took our time, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying the tranquility of the surroundings. Reaching Tsugizakura-Oji, we paused to appreciate the historical significance of the site. It’s amazing to think about the stories these ancient trails could tell.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

The journey is the destination, and today’s exploration of Kumano Kodo reminded us that the path itself holds as much wonder as the destination.

Next on our itinerary was the Totsui Limestone Cave, a short detour from the main Kumano Kodo route. This was something I was particularly looking forward to, as I’ve always been fascinated by caves and their hidden worlds. The cave is located in Yura Town, and while it's not very large (only about 100 meters long), it’s incredibly interesting. Formed over 250 million years ago, the Totsui Limestone Cave is the only limestone cave in Wakayama Prefecture. As we descended into the cave, the temperature noticeably dropped, and we were immediately surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites. The lighting inside was dim but sufficient to highlight the unique formations, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Lena was in her element, taking photos from every angle, marveling at the natural artistry on display. I couldn’t help but think about the sheer amount of time it took for these formations to develop, a humbling reminder of the Earth’s ancient history.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

I learned that the cave was used as a lime quarry from 1913 to around 1945, which is hard to imagine now. It was reopened to the public in 1980, thanks to local efforts to preserve and showcase its natural beauty. It’s a small cave, but you can see the stalactites up close. The air was cool and damp, and the silence was broken only by the occasional drip of water. It was a refreshing change from the humid outdoor air, and we spent a good hour exploring every nook and cranny. Emerging from the cave, we felt like we had discovered a hidden secret, a reminder that there’s always something new to uncover, even in places we think we know well.



After our subterranean adventure, we were ready for lunch. We made our way to the Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming spot known for its serene atmosphere and delicious offerings. The teahouse is nestled in the scenic region of Tanabe, Wakayama, and it’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy the natural beauty of the area. We sat outside, savoring the tranquility and enjoying a light meal. It was a perfect moment, surrounded by nature and feeling completely at peace. From Fushiogami-oji, pilgrims can get their first glimpse of the Kumano Hongu Taisha. It must have been an inspiring view for those completing their long journey. It was closed variably when we were there.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

In the evening, we treated ourselves to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. I had heard great things about their Kumano beef, and I was eager to try it. The restaurant had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I opted for the Kumano beef hamburger steak, cooked to medium-rare perfection. Lena chose the tuna hamburg steak, and we decided to share both so we could experience the full range of flavors. The Kumano beef was incredibly tender and flavorful, melting in my mouth with each bite. It was evident that the beef was of the highest quality, and the chef had done an excellent job of preparing it. The tuna steak was equally delicious, offering a unique and satisfying taste. We savored every moment, enjoying the delicious food and the pleasant ambiance. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and adventure.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

After dinner, we decided to check out Why Kumano, a local bar known for its relaxed vibe. It’s conveniently located near the Kii-Katsuura train station, making it easily accessible. The bar is part of a hostel, which offers a unique lodging experience by revitalizing vacant homes in the town as guest rooms. We sampled some local craft beer and sake, chatting with the friendly staff and soaking in the local atmosphere. It was a great way to unwind after a long day and to connect with the community. The managers were very friendly and had a wealth of local information.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As we head into tomorrow, we plan to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route and visit the Fukusada-no-Oicho Large Gingko Tree. I'm particularly excited about visiting the Kumano Kodo Information Center to learn more about the history and significance of the pilgrimage. We'll be having breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall and trying out Tororoya for lunch. Dinner will be at Akihei, which I've heard has some fantastic local dishes.



Today was a perfect blend of nature, culture, and culinary delights. From the ancient trails of Tsugizakura-Oji to the hidden depths of Totsui Limestone Cave and the savory flavors of Hinoki Steak House, every moment was a discovery. It’s days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to explore, and to share these experiences with Lena and with all of you. As we prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I’m filled with a sense of gratitude and excitement for what lies ahead.