Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Day 1: Arrival and Ascent into Ancient Echoes

The air in Koyasan was crisp and carried the scent of cedar as Lena and I stepped off the train, marking the start of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Leaving behind the familiar buzz of Berlin for the serene mountains of Japan felt like stepping into another world. After months of planning, poring over maps and guidebooks, we were finally here, ready to immerse ourselves in the ancient trails and spiritual heart of Japan.

Our journey from Berlin to Osaka was smooth, but the train ride to Koya was where the adventure truly began. As the urban sprawl gave way to verdant hills, I felt a sense of anticipation building. This trip wasn't just about hiking; it was about connecting with something deeper, something that resonated with the history and culture of this land. Arriving in Koya, the transition was immediate—a tranquil mountain atmosphere replacing the city's hustle.

Our first order of business was to find the Kumano Kodo Information Center. We wanted to gather any last-minute updates on trail conditions and perhaps pick up a more detailed map. It’s always reassuring to speak with locals who know the area intimately. Plus, I was hoping to find a replacement for the sunscreen I’d carelessly left behind in Berlin. Lena, ever the pragmatist, reminded me that forgetting essentials is practically a tradition for us at this point.

After a brief stop at the Information Center, we headed towards the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

The path was clearly marked, and soon we were ascending into the forest. The initial climb was invigorating, the fresh air filling our lungs as we navigated the stone steps. I paused to take a photo of Lena as she confidently strode ahead, her blonde hair catching the dappled sunlight filtering through the trees. Her enthusiasm is infectious, and it’s one of the many reasons I love having her as my travel partner.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

The trail was peaceful, with only the occasional rustle of leaves and the distant call of a bird breaking the silence. It was a welcome change from the constant noise of Berlin. I found myself reflecting on my life back home, the endless emails and meetings, and the ever-present pressure to stay connected. Here, surrounded by nature, those concerns seemed distant and insignificant. It felt like a true escape, a chance to reset and reconnect with what truly matters.

Our trek along the Koyazaka Slope was particularly memorable.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The ancient stone pavement, worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims, led us through a dense forest. Lena, with her architect's eye, was fascinated by the intricate stonework and the way the path blended seamlessly with the natural surroundings. We paused at several points to admire the panoramic views, the rolling hills stretching out before us like a green tapestry. The Koya-zaka Slope is a road that was used by pilgrims traveling from Shingu toward Mt. Nachi. The area comprises a registered World Heritage site whose old-fashioned ambience remains well preserved.

For lunch, we stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

This quaint café offered a serene escape, and we savored the local coffee and traditional Japanese snacks. The teahouse was run by a group of local women who were incredibly welcoming, sharing stories about the history of the Kumano Kodo and offering advice on the best routes to take. It was moments like these that made the trip so special—the chance to connect with people and learn about their way of life. Fushiogami-oji is where pilgrims fell to their knees and prayed after catching their first glimpse of the Grand Shrine in the distant valley below. There is a covered rest area here where locals serve handmade snacks and coffee.

Before hitting the trail, we had breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The cafe is located in front of the Chikatsuyu-oji bus stop. It was a charming little spot known for its fresh, local ingredients. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Lena chose a Western-style bagel with cream cheese. Both were delicious, and the strong coffee was exactly what we needed to fuel our hike. Kumano mean is this areas name and Yasai mean is vegetables.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for dinner.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

This restaurant and visitor center is housed in a beautifully renovated traditional house. We enjoyed a hearty meal of local specialties, including Mehari-zushi, a type of sushi made with pickled mustard leaves. The strong taste of the mustard leaf was certainly unique, and while Lena wasn't entirely convinced, I found it surprisingly delicious. The building itself was a tangible cultural property.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a quick stop at a local shop. I picked up a few souvenirs for my family back in Cameroon, while Lena found a beautiful handcrafted ceramic bowl for her collection. We also stocked up on snacks and drinks for tomorrow’s hike. It’s essential to stay hydrated and energized on the trail, especially with the warmer weather.

Back at our traditional Ryokan, we relaxed in our room, reflecting on the day’s adventures. The tatami mats felt soothing under our feet, and the shoji screens cast a soft, warm light. Lena journaled her thoughts, while I reviewed the maps for tomorrow’s route. We’re planning to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara, two of the most sacred sites on the Kumano Kodo.

“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta

As I lay in bed, listening to the gentle sounds of the night, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for this opportunity. To escape the ordinary, to immerse myself in a new culture, and to share it all with the woman I love—it was a dream come true. I drifted off to sleep, eager to see what tomorrow would bring.

Reflecting on the day, a few things stand out. The serene beauty of the Kumano Kodo is truly captivating. The ancient trails, the towering trees, and the crystal-clear streams create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility. It’s a place where you can disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with nature and yourself. The kindness and hospitality of the local people were also remarkable. From the staff at the Information Center to the women at the teahouse, everyone we met was warm, welcoming, and eager to share their knowledge and culture.

I am already looking forward to tomorrow when we plan to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano, and Oyunohara, the original site of the shrine before it was moved due to flooding. I've heard that Oyunohara is marked by the largest torii gate in the world, and I'm eager to see it in person. We'll also be exploring the surrounding areas, soaking in the natural beauty and spiritual atmosphere. Lena is particularly excited about visiting Wine Kumano in the evening, hoping to sample some local wines and relax after a long day of hiking.

Our first day on the Kumano Kodo was more than just a hike; it was a journey into the heart of Japan, a step back in time, and a chance to reconnect with what truly matters. I am excited to see what the rest of our pilgrimage will bring. The natural conditions of Owase make the trees stout and give them a beautiful and lustrous texture. This building is made up of pillars, beams and walls which are composed by combined blocks of Owase hinoki. Retaining the traditional Japanese decorous buildings, Kumano Kodo Center represents beauty and strength of the straight lines of the building. On the theme People and Roads,here and beyond Kumano Kodo Center is founded with the aim of revitalizing the neighboring areas by giving information on Kumano Kodo and promoting interchange with locals.