Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Pilgrims

Today was a day steeped in history and spirituality as Lena and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo. It’s incredible how this journey seems to peel back layers of time, revealing the profound connection between nature, faith, and the human spirit. Each step felt like walking in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who have sought solace and enlightenment in these mountains for centuries. Today, we explored revered shrines and sacred sites, savoring local flavors, and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere that defines this unique corner of Japan.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. There’s something incredibly grounding about starting the day with a simple, wholesome meal in such a historically rich location. The dining hall had a comforting, no-frills atmosphere, perfect for fueling up before a day of exploration. It reminded me of the small eateries back in Foumban, where the focus is always on good food and good company. Lena enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while I opted for a comforting bowl of rice porridge. It was simple but satisfying, setting a positive tone for the day ahead

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

From Yunomine Onsen, we made our way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano and the head shrine of over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan. The approach to the shrine was impressive, a long stone staircase leading up through towering cedar and cypress trees. As we climbed the 158 steps, I could feel a sense of anticipation building. The air was thick with the scent of wood and incense, creating a serene and reverent atmosphere.

Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.

Reaching the top, we were greeted by the sight of the main hall with its magnificent thatched roof of cypress shingles. The architecture was beautiful, a testament to the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans who built and maintained it over the centuries. I learned that the shrine is dedicated to Izanagi-Okami, the deity who gave birth to Japan, and Ketsumimiko-Okami, a benevolent deity who strives to help mankind. It was fascinating to learn about the history and significance of this sacred place, a site that has been revered for centuries.

The shrine's history stretches back to ancient times, becoming a popular pilgrimage destination by the Heian period for all social classes. In 1889, a devastating flood destroyed the original shrine buildings, which were then relocated to their present location. Despite this, the shrine remains a powerful symbol of faith and resilience. We took our time exploring the grounds, admiring the intricate details of the buildings and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Lena lit some incense, and we both took a moment to offer a prayer for our families' well-being and for continued strength on our journey. I also picked up an omamori, a small amulet for safe travels, a tangible reminder of the spiritual protection believed to be offered here.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that lead us back to ourselves.

Afterward, we walked to Oyunohara, the original location of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Today, Oyunohara is marked by a giant torii gate, the largest in the world, standing at an impressive 33.9 meters tall. As we approached the gate, I was struck by its sheer size and presence. It felt like stepping into another realm, a place where the secular and the spiritual worlds meet.

Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.

Oyunohara is a sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers, a place believed to be where the Kumano deities descended in the form of three moons into the branches of a giant oak tree. Although the original shrine buildings are gone, the area still holds a palpable sense of sacredness. We wandered around the site, taking in the views of the surrounding mountains and reflecting on the history of this special place. There are also two small stone shrines at Oyunohara.

The giant torii gate was erected in 2000 and is made of steel. It features the symbol of a three-legged crow (Yatagarasu), a messenger of the sun goddess Amaterasu in Japanese mythology. The Yatagarasu is also the symbol of the Japan Football Association, revered as the guardian deity of sports. As a football enthusiast myself, I found this connection particularly interesting.

For lunch, we headed to Tororoya, a local restaurant known for its delicious set dinners. The restaurant had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly. We both opted for the set menu, which included a variety of local specialties. The tororo (grated yam) was a particular highlight, a creamy and flavorful dish that perfectly complemented the other offerings. Lena, ever the adventurous eater, tried everything with gusto, while I savored each bite, appreciating the unique flavors and textures of Kumano cuisine. It reminded me a bit of trying new dishes with my mother back in Cameroon, where food is always a celebration of culture and community.

Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

In the evening, we decided to try Wine Kumano, a local bar that specializes in natural wine, craft beer, and coffee. It was a small but perfectly formed spot, with a relaxed and welcoming vibe. We sampled a few different wines, chatting with the friendly owner about the local wine scene. Lena, with her architect's eye, admired the bar's minimalist decor, while I enjoyed the opportunity to relax and unwind after a day of exploring. It was a delightful way to end the day, a perfect blend of local culture and international flavors.

Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

For dinner, we had planned to go to Hinoki Steak House. However, we found ourselves unexpectedly drawn to a small, unassuming eatery near our accommodation. The aroma of grilled meat wafting from its open doorway was simply too enticing to resist. We decided to be spontaneous and try something new. It turned out to be a fantastic decision. The steak house was cozy and inviting.

Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

I opted for a Kumano beef steak, while Lena chose a hamburger steak. Both were cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful, a true testament to the quality of the local beef. The chef was incredibly friendly and welcoming, chatting with us about his passion for cooking and his love for the Kumano region. It was a memorable meal, a perfect example of how sometimes the best experiences are those that are unplanned and unexpected.

As we walked back to our ryokan under the starlit sky, Lena and I reflected on the day's adventures. We spoke about the spiritual significance of Kumano Hongu Taisha, the imposing presence of the Oyunohara torii gate, and the delicious flavors of the local cuisine. We felt grateful for the opportunity to experience this unique corner of Japan, a place where ancient traditions and natural beauty come together in perfect harmony. I am also grateful to be sharing this experience with my wonderful wife Lena.

Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Nachi Waterfall and Seiganto-ji, further exploring the natural and spiritual wonders of the Kumano Kodo. I'm excited to see what new discoveries and experiences await us on the next leg of our pilgrimage. I'm particularly looking forward to visiting Nachisan Sightseeing Center for some sovenir shopping.

Before drifting off to sleep, I couldn't help but think about the incredible journey we've embarked on. From the bustling streets of Berlin to the serene trails of Kumano Kodo, life is full of surprises and adventures. And as I close my eyes, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this beautiful world with my amazing wife, Lena.