Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Day 8: Finding Peace and Perspective on the Path

Today was a day of both physical exertion and spiritual reflection here on the Kumano Kodo. As Lena and I continue our journey, I find myself increasingly drawn to the blend of natural beauty and profound cultural history that permeates this ancient pilgrimage route. Today was a day to remember, filled with mountain air, sacred spaces, and delicious tastes.

Our day started with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. This cozy guesthouse and cafe is nestled in a serene location. The hostess was incredibly welcoming, making us feel right at home. We enjoyed a simple yet nourishing meal that gave us the energy we needed for the day’s adventures. It's amazing how a good meal and a warm welcome can set the tone for the entire day.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Fueled up, we set off to tackle the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. The approach to the shrine was impressive, requiring us to climb a significant number of stone steps. As we ascended, the air grew cooler and the atmosphere more serene. The vibrant vermillion lacquered worship hall stood out against the green backdrop of the mountains. The shrine's location amidst Mount Nachi is truly awe-inspiring.


Explore the cultural and natural beauty of Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, a serene Shinto sanctuary in Wakayama, Japan.

The journey is the destination, and on Kumano Kodo, every step is a meditation.

Exploring the Kumano-Nachi Taisha was a deeply moving experience. The shrine's history dates back centuries, and its connection to nature worship is palpable. We took our time wandering through the grounds, admiring the ancient camphor tree and the intricate details of the architecture. The sense of peace and spirituality was almost overwhelming. It was easy to see why this place has been a destination for pilgrims for centuries.

After visiting the shrine, we embarked on the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. This hike was more challenging than we anticipated, but the stunning views made it all worthwhile. The trails meandered through lush landscapes and offered breathtaking vistas of the surrounding mountains. The fresh mountain air was invigorating, and the peaceful atmosphere allowed for some much-needed reflection. Lena and I took our time, savoring the beauty of the natural surroundings.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

During our hike, I couldn't help but reflect on my own journey. Growing up in Foumban, Cameroon, I never imagined that I would one day be walking an ancient pilgrimage route in Japan. Life has a funny way of taking you to unexpected places. The discipline and analytical skills I honed as a software engineer in Berlin seem worlds away from the simple act of putting one foot in front of the other on this mountain trail, yet both experiences contribute to who I am today.

For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. This unassuming little spot offered a welcome respite and some delicious local fare. We enjoyed a hearty meal that revitalized us for the rest of our hike. It’s these simple, authentic experiences that I cherish most when traveling. The food was simple but delicious, providing a real taste of local flavors.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a drink. This unique establishment combines a guesthouse with an Italian restaurant, offering a delightful fusion of cultures. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is a fascinating character who came to Japan in 2013 and has since created a culinary haven in the mountains.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

The guest house is located in a renovated 90-year-old farmhouse, surrounded by vineyards and with stunning views of Tanabe Bay. The fresh air and natural countryside create a captivating atmosphere. Giovanni grows his own vegetables and makes his own balsamic vinegar, adding a personal touch to the dining experience. The restaurant, Dal Chef's Table, was even listed in The Michelin Guide in 2022, a testament to Giovanni's culinary skills.

At the Kumano Winery Guest House, we enjoyed a glass of local wine and savored the peaceful ambiance. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of hiking and exploring. Lena was particularly charmed by the goats and chickens roaming the property. It felt like a true escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.

For dinner, we decided to try Kakinoate. This persimmon leaf sushi specialty shop is located near the torii gate of Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine. We sampled both the salmon and mackerel sushi, which were handmade that morning. The sushi was delicious and provided a unique culinary experience. It was the perfect way to end our day of gastronomic exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As I sit here reflecting on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. The Kumano Kodo has a way of slowing you down and forcing you to appreciate the simple things in life. The physical challenge of the hike, the spiritual connection to the shrines, and the delicious local food all combine to create a truly unforgettable experience.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass and visit the Asuka Shrine. I’m looking forward to another day of discovery and reflection on this ancient pilgrimage route. I am also excited to try the local cuisine at Watarase onsen cafe for breakfast, Takehara for lunch and Kumagoro for dinner. I am also thinking of visiting Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu to pick up some souvenirs.

The journey continues, and I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.

“Embrace the detours; they often lead to the most beautiful destinations.”

Until next time,
Joseph