Pilgrimage Adventure: Exploring the Spiritual Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of the Ancients

Today was a day of profound connection, not just with nature, but with the centuries of pilgrims who walked these very paths before us. It's humbling to think about the shared human experience of seeking solace and meaning in such a place. The air itself seemed to hum with stories, urging us onward, deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Watarase Onsen Cafe. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the warmth of the traditional Japanese breakfast set the perfect tone for the day ahead. It's amazing how a simple meal can feel so grounding, especially when you're about to embark on a day of walking and exploration. Lena, ever the early bird, was already snapping photos of the mist rising from the nearby river, her blue eyes sparkling with anticipation, a stark contrast to my still-adjusting-to-morning dark brown ones. We chatted about the plans for the day, the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass and the Asuka Shrine, both steeped in history and natural beauty.




Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Fueled and ready, we set off towards the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. The trail was a mix of gentle slopes and steeper inclines, winding through forests that seemed to whisper secrets of the past. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating dappled patterns on the path, and the air was filled with the scent of damp earth and cedar. It was a sensory feast, a welcome change from the digital world I inhabit back in Berlin. I found myself thinking about my childhood in Foumban, Cameroon, where nature was an integral part of daily life. This pilgrimage, in a way, felt like a reconnection with that part of myself, a reminder of the simple joys of being present in the moment.




Discover breathtaking views and spiritual trails at Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass, a must-visit hiking destination in Wakayama, Japan.

The Shimizu-toge Pass itself was a significant marker. A monument built in 1927 marks the transition between Kuchi-Kumano and Oku-Kumano regions. From the east end, we were rewarded with a stunning view of Uragami Bay. Lena, of course, was in her element, capturing the scene with her camera, while I simply stood and absorbed the vista. We met a few other hikers along the way, exchanged smiles and nods, a silent acknowledgment of our shared journey. There was a sense of camaraderie, a feeling of being part of something larger than ourselves. It reminded me of the cultural festivals back in Berlin, where people from all walks of life come together to celebrate diversity and community.

The path is the goal, and the journey is the reward.

After a satisfying hike, we made our way to the Asuka Shrine. This ancient shrine, with its deep ties to the Kumano Sanzan shrines, exuded an aura of tranquility and reverence. According to the shrine's records, it was built in 423 BC. It is said to be the oldest shrine in the Kumano area and is related to the three Kumano Sanzan shrines of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. The vermilion-painted structure stood in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery, a testament to the enduring power of faith and tradition. We learned about Jofuku, who was sent by the Chinese emperor Qin Shi Huang to discover the elixir of life; it is said that the shrine was built on the spot where Jofuku first landed. Lena was fascinated by the syncretism of the religion followed in the Kumano region for centuries, pointing out the Buddhist images discovered on Mt. Horai behind the shrine. I found myself reflecting on the role of shrines and temples in Japanese culture, how they serve as both places of worship and centers of community. It's similar to the importance of churches and mosques in many African communities, where faith and social life are intertwined.




Explore the tranquil beauty and rich history of Asuka Shrine, a sacred Shinto site nestled in the serene landscapes of Wakayama, Japan.

For lunch, we stopped at Takehara, a restaurant in Tanabe known for its fresh tuna. The restaurant was small and unassuming, but the food was exceptional. We indulged in a tuna set meal, savoring the delicate flavors and textures of the fish. It was a true culinary delight, a testament to the region's rich seafood heritage. Lena, being a fan of minimalist aesthetics, appreciated the simple presentation of the dishes, while I was more focused on the taste. The meal reminded me of the street food stalls in Foumban, where you can find an array of delicious and affordable dishes. It's the kind of experience that connects you to the local culture in a very tangible way.




Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

In the afternoon, we visited the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. This roadside station offered a variety of local products and souvenirs. Lena, always on the lookout for unique gifts, spent some time browsing the shelves, while I enjoyed a cup of local tea. It was a chance to support local businesses and learn more about the region's economy. The Road Station was larger than it appeared and had a regular supermarket. It reminded me of the markets back in Cameroon, where you can find everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. It's a place where people come together to buy, sell, and socialize, a vital part of the community.




Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Kumagoro for dinner. This restaurant offered a cozy atmosphere and a menu of traditional Japanese dishes. We enjoyed a delicious meal of ramen and sushi, reflecting on the day's adventures. It was a perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery. Lena, being an architect, appreciated the clean lines and minimalist design of the restaurant, while I was more focused on the food. The meal reminded me of the diverse culinary scene in Berlin, where you can find restaurants serving cuisine from all over the world. It's a city that celebrates diversity and creativity, a place where anything is possible.




Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff and Fudarakusan-ji []. I am looking forward to more exploration with Lena by my side. It's moments like these that make me grateful for our shared love of travel and adventure.



As I write this, Lena is already asleep, her blonde hair spread across the pillow. The gentle rhythm of her breathing fills the room, a soothing counterpoint to the sounds of the night outside. I am grateful for her companionship, her unwavering support, and her infectious enthusiasm. She is my rock, my muse, and my best friend. And as I drift off to sleep, I can't help but wonder what tomorrow will bring, what new adventures await us on this incredible journey through Kumano Kodo. The prospect of exploring the Onigajō Cliff and Fudarakusan-ji fills me with anticipation. I know that tomorrow will be another day of discovery, another day of connection, another day of creating memories that will last a lifetime. And I can't wait to share it all with you, my dear readers. Goodnight from Japan.