A Solo Escape to Serra de São Mamede Natural Park

A Day of Discovery Beneath and Above the Serra

Today was a day of contrasts, venturing into the depths of the earth and then ascending to a place of quiet contemplation. It’s amazing how much history and natural beauty can be packed into a single day here in Serra de São Mamede Natural Park.

My morning started with a hearty breakfast at Café Libolo in São Mamede de Infesta. I opted for a *pastel de nata* and a strong *café* to fuel up for the day’s adventures. The café was bustling with locals, and I enjoyed soaking in the lively atmosphere before heading out. It’s these little moments of immersion that make traveling so rewarding. As Klara always says, it’s the small things that make the big picture, and I couldn't agree more. I made a mental note to try and recreate the *pastel de nata* when I get back to Potsdam; Mateo would love them.

With a spring in my step, I drove to Grutas de Santo António, a cave system hidden beneath the Serra. The drive itself was scenic, with rolling hills and picturesque villages dotting the landscape. Arriving at the caves, I was immediately struck by the cool, damp air emanating from the entrance. I joined a guided tour, eager to explore the subterranean world.


Discover the breathtaking Grutas de Santo António, a stunning cave system in Alvados, showcasing nature's beauty through incredible geological formations.
The caves were discovered in 1955 by two men who were trying to catch a bird. Can you imagine stumbling upon such a magnificent natural wonder by accident? The caves are said to be 150 million years old, dating back to the Jurassic period. As I descended into the depths, I was mesmerized by the intricate formations of stalactites and stalagmites, shaped over millennia. The guide pointed out various features, including the ‘Fatima’ formation, which resembled the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus. The scale of the caves was impressive, with vast chambers stretching far into the darkness. I even spotted a few bats clinging to the ceiling in the aptly named ‘Bat Chamber’.

The earth has music for those who listen.

Emerging from the caves, blinking in the sunlight, I felt a sense of awe and wonder. It’s humbling to realize how much history lies hidden beneath our feet. I took a moment to appreciate the surrounding landscape, now bathed in the warm afternoon light. Before leaving, I popped into the gift shop, Casa da Boa Memória, and picked up a few postcards to send to Klara and Mateo. Mateo is particularly fascinated by caves and dinosaurs, so I knew he’d be thrilled to receive a little piece of this adventure.


Explore Casa da Boa Memória in Charneca da Caparica - a treasure trove of authentic Portuguese handicrafts and artistic heritage.
For lunch, I stopped at Carlos Caeiro, a local restaurant known for its authentic Portuguese cuisine. I decided to try the *ensopado de borrego*, a traditional lamb stew. The dish was rich and flavorful, the lamb tender and succulent. It was the perfect comfort food after a morning of exploring. The restaurant had a cozy, family-run atmosphere, and I enjoyed chatting with the owner about the region’s culinary traditions. He recommended I try the local cheese and wine, which of course, I obliged. It’s these interactions with locals that truly enrich the travel experience.


Discover authentic Portuguese cuisine at Carlos Caeiro - where flavor meets affordability in an inviting atmosphere.
In the afternoon, I set out to find the Ermida de São Mamede, a chapel nestled in the hills. The drive was a bit challenging, with narrow, winding roads, but the scenery was well worth the effort. As I approached the chapel, I was struck by its serene beauty. The Ermida de São Mamede sits in the green hills of Alentejo. This small chapel is an important part of Portugal's religious heritage and architectural history. Built in the 16th century, the chapel is a fine example of Portuguese Manueline style, known for its detailed stonework and sea-related designs. The chapel was small and unassuming, but it exuded a sense of peace and tranquility. I spent some time wandering around the grounds, taking in the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The silence was broken only by the gentle rustling of leaves and the distant sound of birdsong. It was a perfect place for quiet contemplation, a chance to reflect on the day’s experiences and appreciate the beauty of nature. I lit a candle inside the chapel, a small gesture of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such moments.


Discover the tranquil beauty and historical significance of the Ermida de São Mamede Chapel in Portalegre, a hidden gem in Portugal's Alentejo region.
As the sun began to set, I made my way back to the village, feeling a sense of contentment and gratitude. For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Dom Jardim, a restaurant known for its modern take on traditional Portuguese dishes. The ambiance was elegant and refined, and the food was exquisite. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day’s adventures.


Discover Dom Jardim: A delightful brewpub in Tramagal offering local flavors and cozy vibes perfect for relaxation.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Trilho da Barca d'Amieira - Passadiços de Nisa, a boardwalk trail, and the Parque megalítico dos Coureleiros. I’m looking forward to more hiking and discovering more of the region’s natural and historical treasures. But for now, I’m content to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet of the Serra. It’s moments like these that make me appreciate the simple things in life and remind me why I love to travel. The Serra de São Mamede Natural Park continues to surprise and delight, offering a perfect blend of adventure, culture, and tranquility. It's a reminder that sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are found in the most unexpected places. Good night from Portugal!

Oh, I almost forgot! I managed to find a Vodafone signal near the chapel, so I quickly video-called Klara and Mateo to share some of the day's highlights. Mateo was especially excited about the bats in the cave, and Klara was captivated by the beauty of the chapel. It's not the same as being here with them, but sharing these moments, even virtually, makes me feel closer to them. It also gives me a chance to practice my German with Klara, which she appreciates. She always teases me about my accent, but I know she secretly enjoys it.