Solo Expedition to Yakushima: Embracing Nature's Serenity

Among Giants

Today was a day of profound connection with nature, a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima's ancient cedar forests. I set out to witness the legendary Jōmon Sugi and explore the enchanting Yakusugi Land, eager to immerse myself in the island's timeless beauty. It was a day filled with awe, wonder, and a deep appreciation for the resilience of life.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

My day began with an early start, fueled by excitement and a quick breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The reviews I read online about their omurice and pasta were spot on. The seafood pasta was delicious; the scallops were cooked to perfection, and the shrimp wasn't rubbery at all. After a satisfying meal, I headed towards the Arakawa trailhead to begin my trek to Jōmon Sugi.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

The journey to the trailhead was an experience in itself. Since private vehicles aren't allowed beyond a certain point during this time of year, I hopped on a shuttle bus from the Yakusugi Museum. The winding mountain road offered glimpses of the island's rugged terrain, building anticipation for the adventure ahead. The bus was packed with fellow hikers, a mix of locals and tourists, all eager to witness the ancient giant.

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is not for the faint of heart. The Yakushima Tourism Association rates it as a 4/5 in difficulty. The initial 8 kilometers followed an old railway track, a relatively flat and easy stretch. This part of the trail used to transport lumber down to Anbo. As I walked, I couldn't help but imagine the countless logs that had been carried along this very path, a stark reminder of the island's logging history.

The weather forecast predicted cloudy conditions with a chance of rain, and it wasn't wrong. A light drizzle began to fall as I made my way along the tracks, adding a mystical quality to the surrounding forest. The air was thick with humidity, and the scent of cedar filled my lungs. Despite the rain, the trail was alive with vibrant green mosses and ferns, clinging to every surface.

After about three hours of walking, the railway track ended, and the real climb began. The trail transformed into a steeper mountain path, winding through the dense forest. The terrain became more challenging, with uneven steps and rocky sections. I had to watch my footing carefully, but the stunning scenery made it all worthwhile.

As I ascended, I passed several notable landmarks, including the remains of Okina Sugi. The forest was teeming with life, from tiny insects to the occasional Yaku deer darting through the undergrowth. The sound of birdsong echoed through the trees, creating a symphony of nature that soothed my soul.

Finally, after nearly five hours of hiking, I reached Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient cedar was truly breathtaking. Estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, Jōmon Sugi is one of the oldest and largest trees in the world.

To stand before this ancient giant was to feel a sense of humility and connection to something far greater than myself.

I joined a small group of hikers on the viewing platform, all of us gazing in awe at the majestic tree. Its gnarled branches reached towards the sky, bearing witness to centuries of history. The sheer size and presence of Jōmon Sugi were overwhelming, a testament to the enduring power of nature.

Spending time in front of Jōmon Sugi, I thought about my family back in Toronto. I imagined telling Sofia about this ancient tree, its resilience a metaphor for life itself. I wished Isabella was there with me, sharing this moment of quiet awe. It's moments like these that make me realize how much I cherish our adventures together, and how much I miss them when I'm on my own.

After soaking in the majesty of Jōmon Sugi, I began my descent. The return journey was just as challenging, but the thought of a hot meal and a comfortable bed kept me going. As I made my way back along the railway track, I reflected on the incredible experience I had just had.

With the Jōmon Sugi hike complete, I decided to explore Yakusugi Land. Fortunately, there was still daylight to enjoy it. Yakusugi Land is a natural recreation forest with several trekking trails, offering a chance to see more of Yakushima's ancient cedars. I chose the 80-minute course, a moderate trail that wound through the forest.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

The path in Yakusugi Land was well-maintained, with wooden walkways and stone pavements making it accessible for hikers of all levels. Along the way, I encountered several other impressive Yakusugi trees, each with its own unique shape and character. The forest was lush and green, with moss-covered rocks and towering cedars creating a magical atmosphere.

One of the highlights of Yakusugi Land was the chance to see the Buddhasugi, a massive cedar tree with a distinctive shape resembling a Buddha. I also admired the Himeshara trees with their smooth, orange bark, adding a touch of elegance to the forest. The Yakushima azaleas, though not in full bloom, hinted at the vibrant colors they would display in the spring.

As I walked through Yakusugi Land, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility. The forest was alive with the sounds of nature, from the rustling of leaves to the gentle flow of streams. It was a perfect way to unwind after the strenuous hike to Jōmon Sugi.

By the time I finished exploring Yakusugi Land, it was late afternoon. I was exhausted but exhilarated, my body tired but my spirit refreshed. I made my way back to town, eager for a hearty dinner and a good night's sleep.

For dinner, I decided to try Hachiman, a local restaurant known for its delicious food and friendly atmosphere. I had read about the karaoke parties where travelers mingle with locals, and I was curious to experience it for myself. The chef and staff were incredibly welcoming, and I soon found myself chatting with other diners. The daily menu featured a variety of local dishes, and I opted for a fish dish that was both flavorful and satisfying.


Discover the flavors of Japan at Hachiman in Yakushima - an authentic izakaya experience awaits with delicious dishes and local drinks.

After dinner, I decided to check out Cafe＆Bar RainTree for a nightcap. It was a cozy spot, perfect for unwinding after a long day of hiking. I sipped on a local drink, savoring the quiet ambiance and reflecting on the incredible experiences I had had throughout the day.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

As I write this, back in my cozy accommodation, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to explore Yakushima's natural wonders. Today was a testament to the island's beauty and the power of nature to inspire and rejuvenate. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures, which include visiting Senpiro Falls and Wilson's Stump. I plan to start my day with breakfast at Panorama, followed by lunch at Matsutake, and dinner at Kamogawa Restaurant. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Pukaridō. Until then, I'll cherish the memories of today, the ancient cedars, the whispering woods, and the warm hospitality of the people of Yakushima.

Tomorrow, I am planning to see Senpiro Falls and Wilson's Stump. It will be another early start, but after today, I feel prepared for anything.