Solo Expedition to Yakushima: Embracing Nature's Serenity

Finding My Footing in Yakushima

After a long journey from Toronto, with a stopover in Kagoshima, I finally arrived in Yakushima. The air here is different – cleaner, crisper, and filled with the scent of cedar and damp earth. It’s a world away from the concrete and glass of Toronto, a balm for the soul that I didn’t realize I desperately needed. This solo trip is already shaping up to be exactly what I envisioned: a chance to reconnect with nature and myself.

My first day in Yakushima was a blend of education and immersion, a gentle introduction to the island's unique ecosystem and rich history. I started my day, as anyone arriving by plane would, at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant for a quick breakfast [i]. It was a simple meal, but enough to fuel me for the day's adventures.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

First stop: the Yakushima World Heritage Conservation Center. As a financial analyst, I appreciate understanding the context before diving into anything new, and this center provided just that. It offered a comprehensive overview of why Yakushima earned its UNESCO World Heritage status. The exhibits detailed the island's unique flora and fauna, explaining how its ancient cedar forests and vertical vegetation distribution set it apart. I learned about the conservation efforts in place to protect this natural treasure, and the trekking etiquette to minimize my impact. It was fascinating to see the 3D map of the island and understand the scale of the mountains.


Discover Yakushima's natural wonders: Explore diverse ecosystems, ancient forests, and vital conservation efforts at the World Heritage Conservation Center.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

Leaving the center, I felt a sense of responsibility and excitement. I was ready to experience the natural beauty I had just learned about. My next destination was the Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a place I had been eagerly anticipating.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The bus ride to Shiratani Unsui Gorge was an experience in itself. As the bus wound its way through the mountains, I caught glimpses of the forest, the trees growing denser and the foliage lusher with every turn. I even spotted a few Yakushima deer grazing by the roadside. It reminded me of hiking in Ontario, but with a distinctly Japanese feel.

Shiratani Unsui Gorge is nothing short of magical. The moss-covered rocks and ancient cedar trees create an ethereal atmosphere, as if stepping into another world. I chose the Bugyosugi Cedar Course, a three-hour hike that took me deeper into the forest. The trail was well-maintained, but still offered a sense of adventure, with occasional uphill climbs and muddy puddles to navigate.

As I walked, I was struck by the silence, broken only by the sound of the Shiratani River flowing through the ravine. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the mossy ground. It was easy to see why this place inspired the movie *Princess Mononoke*; the forest felt alive, ancient, and mystical. I found myself stopping frequently, just to take it all in. I even tried my hand at nature photography, hoping to capture some of the beauty I was witnessing, though I know my pictures won't do it justice.

I made my way to the Mononoke Hime forest, a small grove that served as the inspiration for the film. Standing there, surrounded by the lush greenery and the sound of the forest, I felt a sense of peace I rarely experience in the city. It was a moment of pure tranquility, a reminder of why I needed this trip.

After the hike, I was ready for a good meal. I took the bus to Anbo and headed to Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant for lunch. I had heard about their specialty, the flying fish hitsumabushi, and I was eager to try it. The restaurant was cozy and welcoming, and the staff were friendly, even offering an English menu. The hitsumabushi was delicious – the flying fish was grilled to perfection, with a teriyaki-like flavor that was both sweet and savory. It was served with rice and various condiments, allowing me to customize each bite.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.

In the afternoon, I decided to explore the local markets. I visited Yakushima Market, hoping to find some local crafts and souvenirs. The market was bustling with activity, vendors selling everything from fresh produce to handmade goods. I picked up a few small items – a Yakusugi wooden carving and some local tea – as mementos of my trip. I was tempted by the premium tankan juice, but decided to save it for another day.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

For dinner, I chose Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. This restaurant is known for its local dishes served in Yakusugi wooden bowls. The ambiance was warm and inviting, with a gallery showcasing local art. I enjoyed a set meal featuring local seafood and vegetables, a delicious and authentic taste of Yakushima. I even took a look at Yakushima Ichiba, the souvenir shop on the first floor.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

As the day drew to a close, I found a small, family-run inn in Anbo. It’s simple, but clean and comfortable, and the owners are incredibly kind. I sat outside for a while, listening to the sounds of the night – the chirping of crickets, the rustling of leaves – and reflected on my first day in Yakushima.

Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Jōmon Sugi and Yakusugi Land. It will be a challenging hike, but I’m looking forward to seeing the ancient cedar tree and exploring more of the island’s forests. Before that though, I'll grab a quick breakfast at Aqua Cafe. And perhaps, after the hike, I’ll treat myself to a drink at Cafe & Bar RainTree.

Yakushima has already exceeded my expectations. It’s a place of incredible natural beauty, rich history, and warm, welcoming people. I feel a sense of peace and connection here that I haven’t felt in a long time. I’m excited to see what the rest of my solo expedition holds. This trip is not just about seeing a new place; it’s about finding a new perspective, a new appreciation for the world around me. And maybe, just maybe, finding a little piece of myself along the way.

I think Isabella and Sofia would love it here. Maybe one day I'll bring them. But for now, I'm enjoying the solitude and the chance to explore at my own pace. I miss them, of course, but I know they're supporting me from afar. And who knows, maybe this trip will inspire Sofia to become a nature photographer! It's good to dream, right?