Exploring the Hidden Charms of Puglia, Italy

Whispers of Emperors and Windswept Plains

Today, Hans and I ventured into the heart of Puglia, eager to uncover the stories etched in stone and whispered across the vast landscapes. With a mix of anticipation and excitement, we set out to explore Castel del Monte and the Alta Murgia National Park, a journey that promised a blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty. It was a day of contrasts, from the precise geometry of a medieval castle to the untamed wilderness of the Murgia plateau.


Discover the architectural wonder of Castel del Monte, a 13th-century castle blending cultures and offering stunning Apulian views.

Our morning began in Canosa di Puglia, where we savored a delightful breakfast at Locanda Di Nunno. I opted for the cavatelli with mussels and provola, while Hans enjoyed the homemade tonnarelli with prawns. The restaurant is known for marrying tradition with innovation, showcasing local ingredients in creative ways. It was the perfect start to a day filled with exploration.

Fueled by our delicious breakfast, we drove towards Castel del Monte, a fortress that has intrigued historians and visitors for centuries. As we approached, the castle emerged on the horizon, a solitary crown of stone perched atop a gentle hill. Its octagonal shape, with eight towers gracing each corner, immediately captured our attention.

Stepping inside, I felt transported back to the 13th century, when Emperor Frederick II, a man of science, culture and mathematics, ordered its construction. The castle's design is a unique blend of medieval military architecture, with influences from classical antiquity, the Islamic Orient, and Northern European Cistercian Gothic styles. It's a testament to Frederick II's vision and intellect, a place where mathematics and astronomy seemingly meet.

The beauty of Castel del Monte lies not just in its architectural precision, but in the mysteries it holds and the stories it silently tells.

We wandered through the two floors, each featuring eight rooms surrounding an octagonal courtyard. Although much of the original splendor, like the marble walls, has faded over time, the castle still exudes an aura of grandeur. I couldn't help but imagine the sophisticated plumbing system that once channeled rainwater for the toilets and bathrooms, a marvel for its time.

The views from the castle were breathtaking, offering a panorama of the rolling Puglia countryside. It was easy to see why Frederick II chose this location, a strategic point that allowed him to survey the surrounding lands. Despite its defensive features, some historians believe that Castel del Monte was not primarily intended as a military fortress. Its purpose remains a topic of debate, adding to its allure.

After immersing ourselves in the history and mystery of Castel del Monte, we set off to explore the Alta Murgia National Park. This vast expanse of protected land offers a stark contrast to the structured elegance of the castle. The park is characterized by gentle undulating countryside, immense natural biodiversity, and archaeological sites.


Explore the enchanting Alta Murgia National Park, where stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity await every traveler in the heart of Apulia.

Driving through the park, we were struck by the sheer scale of the landscape. The rolling grasslands stretched as far as the eye could see, dotted with ancient farms and stone fences where sheep once grazed. It felt like stepping back in time, a world away from the bustling towns and coastal resorts we had visited earlier in our trip.

We stopped for lunch at Tibbasta Ristorante in Gravina in Puglia. This charming restaurant is known for its delicious Italian cuisine and warm atmosphere. Hans and I shared the calamarata sbagliata, a delightful pasta dish with scorfano ragout, basil, and black garlic powder. The service was attentive, and the prices were reasonable, making it a perfect midday stop.

After lunch, we continued our exploration of the Alta Murgia National Park. We decided to take a short hike along one of the many trails that crisscross the park. The landscape was dotted with sinkholes and caves, remnants of the region's geological past.

As we walked, we kept an eye out for the park's diverse wildlife. Alta Murgia is home to numerous species of birds, including larks, red kites, hawks, and owls. It's also an important resting area for migratory birds traveling between Africa and Northern Europe. Unfortunately, we didn't spot any rare species, but we enjoyed the tranquility of the natural surroundings.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a stop at the Puglia Design Store in Bari. I was eager to see the creations of local artisans and designers, and the store did not disappoint. It showcased a wide selection of objects, from lamps and bags to pottery and textiles, all made with traditional materials and techniques. I was particularly drawn to the ceramics, with their cream colors and simple blue patterns. We ended up purchasing a small hand-painted bowl as a souvenir, a reminder of our day exploring the art and nature of Puglia.

For dinner, we chose La Murgiana in Gravina in Puglia, drawn by its reputation for authentic Apulian cuisine. The restaurant exuded rustic charm, with brick vaulted ceilings and a cozy atmosphere. We opted for one of the tasting menus, which included a selection of local appetizers, homemade pasta, and succulent meats. The meal was a true celebration of Apulian flavors, and the attentive service made it all the more enjoyable.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the majestic Castel del Monte to the untamed landscapes of Alta Murgia, we had experienced the many facets of Puglia's beauty. It was a day of contrasts, a journey through history, nature, and local culture. I am so glad we added this to our itinerary.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the charming town of Alberobello, famous for its unique trulli architecture, and delve into the underground wonders of Gravina Sotterranea. I’m particularly excited about visiting Trullo Antichi Sapori di Marco Maria Concetta and enjoying a drink at Classico bar in the evening.

As I write this, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had so far. Puglia has a way of captivating the senses, of drawing you in with its stories and landscapes. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

The day reminded me of a quote by the great Danish storyteller, Hans Christian Andersen:

To move, to breathe, to fly, to float,
To gain all while you give,
To roam the roads of lands remote,
To travel is to live.

And indeed, today, we truly lived.