Exploring the Hidden Charms of Puglia, Italy

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of delving into the heart of Puglia, both above and below ground. It’s amazing how much history and culture can be packed into a single day, especially when you’re exploring with someone you love. Hans and I set out with a sense of adventure, ready to uncover the secrets that this region holds, from the charming architecture to the hidden depths beneath our feet.

We started our day with a hearty breakfast at Le Stanzie. The restaurant was a delightful step back in time, with its rustic setting and farm-to-table concept. I savored every bite of the locally sourced ingredients, and Hans was particularly impressed with their olive oil and freshly baked bread. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The atmosphere was steeped in folklore, with chillies hanging from the ceiling and slow-burning fireplaces carved into stone walls. The dining rooms were lit by candlelight, creating a magical ambiance that transported us to another time.

Our first stop was Trullo Antichi Sapori di Marco Maria Concetta in Alberobello. As we approached Alberobello, the landscape transformed into a whimsical panorama of cone-shaped roofs. These unique structures, known as trulli, are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and seeing them in person was like stepping into a fairy tale. The Trullo Antichi Sapori was a delightful shop, filled with local delicacies and artisanal products. We wandered through the narrow streets, admiring the whitewashed buildings and the intricate details of the trulli. Each stone seemed to whisper stories of the past, of families who had lived and worked in these unique homes for generations. I picked up a small bottle of local olive oil and some handmade pasta, eager to bring a taste of Puglia back to our kitchen in Heidelberg. Hans, ever the architect, was fascinated by the construction of the trulli, marveling at the ingenuity of the dry-stone walls and the conical roofs. He spent a good amount of time sketching the details, capturing the essence of these iconic structures in his notebook. We even found a bottle of 2009 Negroamaro Puglia. It was a charming experience, and I couldn't resist buying a few souvenirs to remind us of this magical place. The shop itself was lovely.


Explore the delightful flavors of Apulia at Trullo Antichi Sapori, your one-stop shop for local cheeses and wines in charming Alberobello.

Sometimes, the most profound discoveries are made when we dare to venture off the beaten path and explore the hidden corners of our world.

After a morning of fairytale charm, we drove to Gravina in Puglia, a town with a history as rich and layered as the sedimentary rock it’s built upon. We had lunch at L'Antica Locanda. The restaurant was a cozy spot, and we enjoyed some traditional Pugliese dishes. I savored the orecchiette pasta with cime di rapa, a local specialty, while Hans opted for the grilled lamb. The flavors were simple yet satisfying, a true taste of the region. The service was friendly, and the atmosphere was relaxed, making it a perfect midday break.

In the afternoon, we embarked on a journey into the depths of Gravina Sotterranea. This underground tour took us beneath the surface of the town, revealing a hidden world of caves, tunnels, and ancient cisterns. It was fascinating to learn about the history of Gravina from a completely different perspective. As we descended into the cool, dark depths, I felt a sense of awe and wonder. Our guide, Stefania, was incredibly knowledgeable, sharing stories of the people who had lived and worked in these underground spaces for centuries. We explored ancient churches carved into the rock, marveled at the intricate system of aqueducts, and learned about the town's fascinating past. The tour was a bit spooky, but also incredibly informative, offering a unique glimpse into the history of Gravina. Hans was particularly intrigued by the engineering of the cisterns, marveling at the ingenuity of the ancient Romans who had designed them. He peppered Stefania with questions about the construction techniques and the water management system. The tour cost about 15 euros per person.


Discover the captivating underground world of Gravina Sotterranea, a hidden gem rich in history and stunning geological wonders.

After our subterranean adventure, we surfaced just in time for a drink at Classico. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's discoveries. I sipped a glass of local wine, while Hans enjoyed a refreshing beer. The atmosphere was lively, and the conversation flowed easily as we shared our impressions of Gravina. We talked about the contrast between the charming trulli of Alberobello and the rugged beauty of Gravina, marveling at the diversity of Puglia's landscape and culture.

For dinner, we decided to splurge a little and treat ourselves to a meal at Angelo Sabatelli ristorante. This Michelin-starred restaurant in Putignano promised a culinary experience like no other, and it certainly delivered. From the moment we stepped inside, we were enveloped in an atmosphere of elegance and sophistication. The decor was modern and minimalist, with soft lighting and soothing music creating a sense of calm. The service was impeccable, with attentive and knowledgeable staff catering to our every need. Chef Angelo Sabatelli's innovative dishes were a true work of art, blending traditional Pugliese flavors with contemporary culinary techniques. We opted for the tasting menu, a multi-course journey through the region's gastronomic delights. Each dish was a revelation, a symphony of flavors and textures that danced on our palates. The tortelli di ricotta e spinaci was a particular highlight, a delicate pasta filled with creamy ricotta and fresh spinach, served with a rich sage butter sauce. The agnello al forno, slow-roasted lamb that melted in our mouths, was another standout. The wine pairings were expertly chosen, enhancing the flavors of each dish and adding to the overall experience. It was a truly unforgettable meal, a celebration of Puglia's culinary heritage.

As we sipped our after-dinner drinks, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the whimsical trulli of Alberobello to the hidden depths of Gravina Sotterranea, we had experienced the many facets of Puglia's rich history and culture. We talked about the friendly people we had met, the delicious food we had tasted, and the stunning landscapes we had seen. We felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this beautiful region and to share these experiences with each other. I am glad we did not forget the sunscreen and sunglasses; the Puglia sun can be intense [TripDetails].

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” – Saint Augustine.

Tomorrow, we are off to Parco Nazionale del Gargano and Torre Guaceto Marine Protected Area [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. I’m excited to see more of Puglia’s natural beauty, and I’m sure it will be another day filled with unforgettable experiences. I am also thinking of buying something at Puglia With Love Lab [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. And of course, we'll be sure to sample the local cuisine at Radici, Bina Ristorante di Puglia, and Specchia Sant'Oronzo [Itinerary of Tomorrow]. What a culinary journey this is turning out to be!

Before heading back to our accommodation, we might check out some local events.