Exploring the Hidden Charms of Puglia, Italy

Day 7: Stepping Back in Time: Exploring the Ancient City of Matera

Discover Matera's ancient cave dwellings, stunning landscapes, and culinary delights on a captivating journey through history and culture.

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A Day Amongst the Sassi


Today was nothing short of magical. Matera, a city I've dreamt of visiting for years, exceeded all expectations. It felt like stepping into a living painting, with its ancient cave dwellings and winding streets whispering stories of civilizations long past. Hans and I were both captivated by the unique atmosphere, a blend of history, culture, and breathtaking scenery. It's hard to believe that people lived in these caves without electricity or running water until the 1950s. As a software developer, I'm usually immersed in the world of technology, but today, I embraced the chance to disconnect and immerse myself in the beauty and simplicity of a bygone era.

Explore Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site with captivating cave dwellings, rich culture, and stunning landscapes in southern Italy.
Explore Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site with captivating cave dwellings, rich culture, and stunning landscapes in southern Italy.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Cantina della Canonica. Though technically located in Sant'Agata di Puglia, the reviews were too tempting to resist, and we decided to make the drive. The restaurant is known for its traditional Apulian cuisine and charming atmosphere. We started with a selection of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by freshly baked bread and homemade jam. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration.

Experience the essence of Southern Italian dining at La Cantina della Canonica in Sant'Agata di Puglia.
Experience the essence of Southern Italian dining at La Cantina della Canonica in Sant'Agata di Puglia.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off for Matera. The drive itself was stunning, with rolling hills and picturesque countryside stretching as far as the eye could see. As we approached Matera, the landscape transformed, revealing the dramatic ravine and the cascading layers of the Sassi. The sight was truly breathtaking.

Our first stop was the Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini. This visitor center, located in a renovated 19th-century sheepfold, provided a fantastic introduction to the Parco della Murgia Materana and the history of the area. We watched an informative movie about Matera and its surroundings, which helped us understand the significance of the Sassi and the unique ecosystem of the Murgia. The owner was incredibly helpful, providing us with maps and insights into the various tour options.

Experience the breathtaking landscapes and cultural heritage of Matera at Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini, your gateway to exploration and discovery.
Experience the breathtaking landscapes and cultural heritage of Matera at Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini, your gateway to exploration and discovery.

Matera is a place where time stands still, where the past is palpable, and where the beauty of simplicity shines through.


From the Centro Visite, we ventured into the heart of Matera, ready to explore the Sassi. We wandered through the narrow, winding streets, marveling at the ancient cave dwellings, rock churches, and hidden courtyards. It felt like stepping back in time, imagining what life must have been like for the people who once called these caves home. The August sun beat down on us, but the stone buildings provided a welcome respite from the heat.

We visited the Casa Grotta nei Sassi, a recreated cave dwelling that offered a glimpse into the daily lives of Matera's inhabitants. It was fascinating to see how families lived, cooked, and slept in these simple yet functional spaces. Hans, with his architect's eye, was particularly interested in the construction techniques and the way the caves were integrated into the natural landscape. I was impressed by the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the people who carved out a life in these caves.

For lunch, we stopped at Mezza Pagnotta, a charming restaurant in the heart of the Sassi. We shared a selection of local specialties, including handmade pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil, and a hearty meat stew. The food was simple, delicious, and bursting with flavor. As we ate, we watched the world go by, soaking in the atmosphere of this unique city. It was a perfect spot for people-watching.

Experience authentic Italian vegetarian cuisine at Mezza Pagnotta in Ruvo di Puglia - where fresh ingredients meet culinary creativity.
Experience authentic Italian vegetarian cuisine at Mezza Pagnotta in Ruvo di Puglia - where fresh ingredients meet culinary creativity.

After lunch, we continued our exploration of the Sassi, visiting several of the rock churches that are scattered throughout the area. The Chiesa di Santa Maria de Idris was particularly impressive, with its ancient frescoes and stunning views. We also visited the Chiesa di San Pietro Barisano, the largest rock church in Matera, and marveled at its intricate architecture. Each church had its own unique charm and history, adding to the rich tapestry of Matera's cultural heritage.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to take a break and enjoy a refreshing drink at La Casa Del Mojito. This lively bar offered a wide selection of cocktails and a vibrant atmosphere. We sipped on our mojitos, enjoying the cool breeze and the lively chatter of the crowd. It was a perfect way to relax and recharge before continuing our exploration.

Discover the vibrant cocktail culture at La Casa Del Mojito, a must-visit bar in Polignano a Mare, offering refreshing drinks and a lively atmosphere.
Discover the vibrant cocktail culture at La Casa Del Mojito, a must-visit bar in Polignano a Mare, offering refreshing drinks and a lively atmosphere.

For dinner, we chose Fè Ristorante in Noci. Although it required a bit of a drive, the rave reviews and promise of a unique dining experience were too enticing to pass up. The restaurant is known for its innovative cuisine and elegant ambiance. We opted for the tasting menu, which featured a succession of beautifully presented and exquisitely flavored dishes. Each course was a work of art, showcasing the chef's creativity and passion for local ingredients. It was a truly memorable culinary experience.

Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Fè Ristorante in Noci – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.
Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Fè Ristorante in Noci – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Matera, eager to see the Sassi illuminated against the night sky. The sight was even more magical than we had imagined, with the ancient cave dwellings glowing softly in the twilight. We strolled through the streets, hand in hand, savoring the beauty and tranquility of this extraordinary city. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped for a nightcap at a local bar. Sipping on a glass of regional wine, we reflected on the day's adventures and marveled at the beauty and history that surrounded us. Matera had truly captured our hearts, and we knew that we would never forget our time in this enchanting city.

Tomorrow, we're off to Selva di Fasano and Zoosafari Fasanolandia [lists attractions for tomorrow]. It will be quite a change of pace from the ancient wonders of Matera, but I'm excited to see what adventures await us. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Libellula Group SRL [lists shops for tomorrow] to remind us of our time in Puglia. Tonight, though, I'll drift off to sleep dreaming of the Sassi and the magic of Matera. I'm so glad we decided to include this incredible city in our Puglia adventure.

It is amazing to think that this area was once considered Italy's Great Shame. Now it is a vibrant and thriving city full of history and culture. I am so glad we were able to experience it. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!

Go to day 6 Nature's Embrace: Discovering Puglia's Wild Side
Go to day 8 A Wild Day Out: Safari Adventures and Serene Escapes in Fasano
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Exploring the Hidden Charms of Puglia, Italy

Discover Puglia's stunning coastlines, rich culture, and local flavors on an immersive eco-friendly journey through Italy's hidden gem.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Karen Schmidt
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Software Developer
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 33

Hej! I'm Karen, a software developer by day and a passionate traveler by night (and weekends!). Originally from the charming coastal town of Svendborg, Denmark, I now call Heidelberg, Germany, home. Through my blog, Evendo, I share my travel experiences and insights with a focus on sustainable travel, cultural immersion, and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Join me as I explore the world, one eco-friendly adventure at a time!

Interests:
  • Sustainable living
  • Modern art
  • Scandinavian design
  • Hiking
  • Photography
More about Karen Schmidt

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Matera

    Explore Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site with captivating cave dwellings, rich culture, and stunning landscapes in southern Italy.

  • Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini

    Experience the breathtaking landscapes and cultural heritage of Matera at Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini, your gateway to exploration and discovery.

  • La Cantina della Canonica

    Experience the essence of Southern Italian dining at La Cantina della Canonica in Sant'Agata di Puglia.

  • Mezza Pagnotta

    Experience authentic Italian vegetarian cuisine at Mezza Pagnotta in Ruvo di Puglia - where fresh ingredients meet culinary creativity.

  • Fè Ristorante

    Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Fè Ristorante in Noci – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

  • La Casa Del Mojito

    Discover the vibrant cocktail culture at La Casa Del Mojito, a must-visit bar in Polignano a Mare, offering refreshing drinks and a lively atmosphere.

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